leaderboard 1

Sunday, 30 June 2013

Pilot light issue

Pilot light issue

stove light

Vulcan convection oven has pilot lit and fan blows

The list of problems is as long as the one Obama inherited when he took over. Good news though, the most expensive part works, the blower motor! The pilot is established which rules out a gas issue. The two most common problems are, either the temp controller or the infinite switch is bad. Your unit has one or the other but, not both. Controller has several wires leading to it & has a green or tan circuit board on it, infinite switch is a small black or white 2 inch square box with 4 or 5 wires leading to it. Each one of these are mounted thru the front control panel & both have knobs. Temp board around $180, infinite switch around $45. As far as the schematic is concerned, Vulcan was bought by Hobart & they DO NOT give out schematics or service manuals.

How to light Oven Pilot for Magic Chef stove 31000 PAW

There is a cover plate that has two screws holding it down. Inspect the pilot area and you will see a hot surface igniter sitting right next to it.. That is what lights pilot and then the pilot lights main burner. You need a new igniter. Also do not touch any part of the hot surface igniter as human oil will shorten the life of part.

Oven will not light

Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting. 

If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.  
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system

 The pilot light for the oven went out

Replace the bulb, you can buy replacements here

Vulcan oven will not stay lit

I would take out the pilot and clean it up and see what happens,also look behind the unit and see if there's a gas regulator on the gas line,if so you will see a nut on it take it off with a pair of pliers and clean as well.that valve is actually the safety valve,when the pilot lights the flame impinges on the thermocouple and that sends a millivolt back to that valve in order to open.if none of these resolve your problem i would replace the thermocouple first as this is a cheap part and easy to put on.if you need a part # i can give it to you.let me know.

Roper gas oven won't work

I have a really old Roper gas oven. It has a spark ignitor. The range works fine, but when I try to use the oven it just keeps clicking. It is sparking down below, and so I tried manually lighting the pilot. The pilot stays lit, but it won't light the rest of the panel to heat up the oven/broiler. What do I need to do?

Replace the thermal coupling on the pilot make sure it is in the flame of the pilot it looks like a copper wire or tube if its bad it wont open the gas valve after the pilot heats it up

Delay in oven burner to light after pilot is lit

Oven is delayed in lighing after pilot is lit by sometimes 5 to 15 minutes. Also it seems the setting has to be over 350* for it to light. Up to this point oven has worked good, purchased in 1992.
Model number 2121XRA- serial #04C244745147

The upper stove top burners work fine it is just the oven that seems to delay longer all the time.

How Pilot Lights Work

If you have an older model furnace or water heater that uses natural gas, or if you have ­a set of gas logs in your fire place, you have probably seen the small blue flame known as the pilot light. You may even have been able to experience the thrill of relighting the pilot light when it goes out. Let's take a look at how the pilot light works.
The basic idea behind a pilot light is simple. Its purpose is to provide the flame needed to light the gas coming out of the main burner. When the furnace "turns on", a valve releases gas into the burner and the pilot light ignites that gas.
The way that a pilot light is created is also simple. It is made by allowing a small amount of gas to come from the gas pipe through a small tube. You light the gas escaping from the tube, and it burns all the time.
You can see, however, that the pilot light creates a potential safety problem. If the pilot light flame were to ever blow out, the gas would keep coming out of the pilot light tube. If this gas were to collect inside your house and then ignite, it would create an explosion. To solve this problem, the pilot light tube has a valve that cuts the gas to the pilot light in the event that it ever blows out.
This valve is actually a fascinating little piece of equipment. It has to be able to sense whether that pilot light is lit or not, and for safety reasons it needs to be able to do that without requiring any outside electricity. How can you create a pilot light sensor that works reliably over the course of many years without any electricity?
The answer to that question is ingenious. The way to do it is to use the heat of the pilot light flame to generate the electricity by using a thermocouple.
Thermocouples generate electricity directly from heat. They take advantage of an electrical effect that occurs at junctions between different metals. For example, take two iron wires and one copper wire. Twist one end of the copper wire and one end of one of the iron wires together. Do the same with the other end of the copper wire and the other iron wire. If you heat one of the twisted junctions with a flame and attach the two free iron wires to a volt meter, you will be able to measure a voltage.
In a pilot light, one of the junctions of a thermocouple is sitting in the pilot light's flame. The electricity that is created runs to a small electromagnetic valve and holds it open. If the pilot light blows out, the thermocouple quickly cools off. It stops generating electricity and the valve closes.
To relight the pilot light, you have to push a button that opens the value manually. Then you light the pilot light and wait for the thermocouple to heat up (about 30 seconds). Once it is hot, the thermocouple is generating the electricity needed to hold the value open. Then you can let go of the button.
The problem with pilot lights is that they waste a lot of gas. Therefore, most modern appliances do not have a pilot light. Instead, they use a piezoelectric spark to light the burner.

Pilot Light Problems

If your pilot light goes out numerous times throughout the year, it could mean that you have a problem that needs the attention of a professional HVAC contractor.
The burner in your gas furnace is ignited either by electronic ignition as found in most modern furnaces or with a standing pilot flame which common in older style furnaces less than 80% AFUE. The gas furnace standing pilot (flame is lit all the time) is sometimes referred to as a pilot light, but no matter what you call it, its purpose is to serve as a small ignition flame for the gas burner. And when this little flame fails to operate properly or go out, it's one of the most common reasons a gas furnace will fail to operate.

Some of the reasons your light may keep going out include:
A bad or loose thermocouple
A bad gas valve
A poor pilot flame - low gas pressure or blocked orifice
High winds or downdraft
A badly cracked heat exchanger
Improper venting
Flue or chimney problems
The most common reason for a pilot light to go out often is a nearby draft; you should rule this out as the cause by simply looking around to see if there is a new draft in the area of your system.
If your pilot light is on but has a weak, yellow flame, it means that it is not working well enough. A pilot light should be blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow — a sign that there is enough heat to warm your home. With a yellow flame, the furnace will not get hot enough to heat the thermocouple to the point where it triggersthe gas valve to open. If you have a propane flame, it should have a bluish-green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip.

The first step in troubleshooting your weak pilot flame is to rule out whether there is a draft that is weakening the flame. If this is not the problem, then you may need to adjust the flame. Follow safety precautions and your system's manufacturer's instructions for adjusting the flame. Usually this is pretty simple and you just need to turn a small screw. If this does not help, the problem could be a dirty pilot tube. For this, you should turn to an HVAC contractor — or if you feel skilled enough (and know all of the safety precautionstoo), then you can take a needle or small nail and gently clean the tube.

Troubleshooting a Gas Furnace - Furnace Repair

The Conventional Gas Furnace
The gas furnace is an appliance looking like a large box that does the following:

takes in cold air,
cleans it with an air filter,
heats it up with a gas burner using a steel heat exchanger,
distributes the warm air with a blower motor through your home's ductwork
The heated air then cools down in your home's various rooms and returns to the furnace through return air grills and ductwork.
The cold returning air enters back through the air filter into the furnace to complete another heating loop.

Sometimes there is a humidifier mounted on the furnace or the return air ductwork.

Furnaces come in different efficiencies measured in AFUE.

Once in a while things don't work quite right and you need to troubleshoot a gas furnace repair or relight a standing pilot if it has one. Conventional furnaces may have electronic ignitions which need special troubleshooting.

High efficiency condensing furnaces (90% AFUE and above) are a bit more complex than conventional furnaces. The main difference between a conventional and condensing furnace is the heat exchanger technology used to extract heat from the combustion process and the method used to exhaust the combustion gases. In these regards the furnaces are very different. The condensing furnace does not have a significantly more efficient combustion process than a conventional furnace. Both use gas burners with electronic ignition. The difference lies in that the condensing furnace has a more efficient heat extraction process after combustion.

Difference Between a Thermocouple and a Flame Sensor
A thermocouple is used on a standing pilot furnace (with a pilot light). An electronic ignition furnace (intermittent pilot or hot surface ignition) uses a flame sensor. The flame sensor and thermocouple both perform similar functions in that they both control the flow of gas from the gas valve.

The flame sensing rod can be straight or “L” shaped. In both cases the thermocouple or flame sensing rod are generally part of a pilot burner assembly and both connect to the gas valve or to the electronic control box.

Purchase a replacement thermocouple or flame sensing rod applicable to your particular furnace. Honeywell, White Rodgers and others make universal replacement thermocouples, (usually 30 millivolt (mV) ratings) for standing pilot furnaces. The length you see on the package, such as 24” or 30” is the lead length of the thermocouple.
The electronic flame sensor is a less universal part and you will need to get one specific to your model of furnace.

Replacing a Furnace Thermocouple or Electronic Flame Sensor

Thermocouple Replacement
Replacing a thermocouple is fairly easy if you follow these steps:
Shut off gas and power to the furnace.
Remove the furnace's access cover.
If the furnace has been running, wait 30 minutes or so until the thermocouple cools.
The end of the thermocouple is screwed into the gas control valve. Unscrew the nut that holds the thermocouple end fitting into the control valve.
The thermocouple is fastened to the standing pilot burner assembly bracket with a nut at the bottom of the bracket or a nut below and above the bracket. Unscrew the nut(s) and remove the thermocouple.
Connect the new thermocouple to the pilot burner assembly bracket.
Clean the threaded gas control valve opening and fasten the thermocouple end fitting to the gas control valve about 1/4 of a turn beyond where it feels tight by hand.
Turn on the gas and power to the furnace.
Turn on the pilot light and make sure about 1/2” of the thermocouple is in the pilot flame.

Replace furnace access cover.

Electronic Ignition Furnace

The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that allows more reliable performance than standing pilot furnaces, provides energy savings and contributes to better furnace efficiency (AFUE). With a standing pilot, found most commonly on older low efficiency furnaces (55% to 65% AFUE is not uncommon), a small gas flame is always burning and is known in the lexicon of American home repair as a "pilot light". The problem with this type of "analog" ignition is that it wastes energy by constantly burning gas and can sometimes be unreliable.
These issues have led to the development of electronic ignition systems for mid to high efficiency furnaces that exceed the U.S. government’s established minimum AFUE rating of 78%.

The electronic ignition occurs typically in one of two ways:
Intermittent Pilot, or
Hot Surface Ignition
The intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high voltage electrical spark to ignite the gas pilot and then subsequently the main burners, when the thermostat calls for heat.
The hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element not unlike a light bulb filament (and shown in the photo above), to ignite the gas burner.

It is important to understand some of the other components of a modern furnace that you will encounter depending on the type of high efficiency furnace you have. Why? Because they can also come into play in repairing an electronic ignition furnace when it won't run properly. Let's take a quick review of the types of furnace designs and components found in high efficiency furnaces using electronic ignition.

Pilot Light Problem

Turning off the electricity should not extinguish the pilot light. It sounds like you have a problem with the thermocouple - although I am no expert. The quote below explains a thermocouple.

Many gas-fed heating appliances like ovens and water heaters make use of a pilot light to ignite the main gas burner as required. If the pilot light becomes extinguished for any reason, there is the potential for uncombusted gas to be released into the surrounding area, thereby creating both risk of fire and a health hazard. To prevent such a danger, some appliances use a thermocouple to sense when the pilot light is burning. Specifically, the tip of a themocouple is placed in the pilot flame. This thermocouple electrically operates the gas supply valve responsible for feeding the pilot. So long as the pilot flame remains lit, the thermocouple remains hot and holds the pilot gas valve open. If the pilot light goes out, the temperature will fall along with a corresponding drop in electricity, removing power from the valve. Unpowered, the valve will then automatically shut off the gas, halting this unsafe condition.

Obviously a sealed CH system should not lose lots of water and it doesn't sound as if the small leak would account for the loss you are experiencing.

It is recommended that gas boilers are checked for safety annually, although this is not mandatory unless the property is rented.

had just the same problem,although mine was due to the electricity running out!! Our CH wouldnt work, and after taking the pump apart and talking to FIL for about an hour realised it was that the power cut had caused the boiler to "trip". I had to remove the bottom cover of the boiler and on the underside there was a tiny red button, i had to push it really hard, but this reset the boiler and now all is fine.

Troubleshooting Pilot Light Problems

A few simple steps can generally relight your pilot light, regardless of the appliance, but don't hesitate to call for professional help.

Whether it's a gas-powered stove or oven, or a gas-powered boiler, furnace or water heater, there's a pilot light involved. A pilot, being what it is (a tiny flame), will likely go out from time to time, even if there is nothing wrong with your system. After all, a brief interruption in gas flow or a stiff gust of air is about all it takes. That being said, a pilot shouldn't go out frequently, and if it does, you need to get a technician in to look for problems.

That being said, what should you do at first if the pilot goes out? Procedures vary depending on whether it's a stove top, oven or other appliance (like a boiler, furnace or water heater). Let's start with the easier ones: the stove and oven, then we'll move on to the more complex appliances. (If your appliance has instructions about relighting the pilot, follow them first and foremost; the advice below is general and may not apply to all units.)


* Turn the burner control knobs off.

* Remove the cooking grates and cooktop, if necessary.

* Find the pilot light ports and light each that is out with a match.

* Replace the grates and cooktop.

* Turn on the burners one at a time to make sure they are working now.

Pilot flames on stovetops should generally be 3/8 of an inch high. You can adjust the flame's height if you need to, though. Follow the pilot lot back from the pilot toward the oven control to find the adjustment screw. Turn the screw until your flame is the proper height.


* Turn the oven control knob off.

* Remove the broiler carriage.

* Light a match and hold it to the top forward section of the pilot.

* Put the broiler carriage back in place.

Generally speaking, there is no need (and no way) for you to adjust the pilot flame for an oven.


* Turn off the appliance, either at the thermostat or power switch.

* Locate the gas valve, which normally displays three positions ("on," "off" and "pilot"), and turn it to "pilot."

* Press the gas valve knob in to send gas to the burner.

* Hold a lighted match to the pilot burner. You may need a long match (such as those used for fireplaces) or may need to hold a shorter match with a pair of pliers to reach the burner.

* Light the pilot, but continue pressing in the gas valve knob for 30 to 60 seconds.

* Let go of the gas valve button.

* If the pilot doesn't stay lighted, try the process again once or twice more before exploring the possibility of other problems.

* If the pilot flame stays lighted, turn the gas valve knob to "on."

* Close the access panel.

* Turn the appliance back on at the thermostat or power switch.

If you have a spark ignition for the pilot, you won't need a lighted match. Instead, you need to push that ignition button, and you may need to do this several times if there is air in the line.

If your pilot light goes out more than once every season, there's a good chance you have a mechanical or other physical problem that needs to be fixed. The possibilities include (but are not limited to):

* A thermocouple that has gone bad or is loose

* A bad gas valve

* Low gas pressure or blockage that causes a poor flame

* A downdraft or high wind/air movement or some other sort

* Damaged heat exchanger

* Improper venting

* Problems with the flue or chimney

* You're out of fuel (it may sound obvious, but people often forget this possibility)

Water Heater Pilot Light

A water heater pilot light is used to ignite the gas that heats the water. You may go for a long time and not realize that your pilot light has been faithfully serving you.

When the pilot light stops working you do not have hot water. Then you notice. A malfunctioning pilot light may be a sign of another problem. It could be that it just needs to be lit again.

Water Heater Pilot Light - Information

What Can You Save?
A serviceman that comes out will likely tell you your problem is a defective thermocouple. The bill for replacing it will be between $125 and $150. Up selling you to a new water heater is also a possibility. Plan on $800 to $1,500 if that happens.

How Hard Could It Be?
Lighting a water heater pilot light is not that hard. It should take less than ten minutes.

These repairs will have a Difficulty Level of: Simple
These repairs require a Skill Level of: Job Jar Specialist

Check the Simple Things!
You're at the simplest problem you can have with a gas hot water heater. Sorry, there is nothing easier.

What Can Go Wrong?
A pilot light that won't stay lit may be indicative of a more serious problem. You will be without hot water if you cannot fix it. You can get a lot of complaining when this happens.

Water Heater Pilot Light – The Steps Involved

There are two types of pilot lights that you may need to deal with. The older style that requires a match to light it. Then there are the newer ones that have an ignitor. Some high efficiency hot water heaters use and electronic ignition and do not have a pilot light. They don't have a pilot light at all.

Gas water heaters are equipped with a thermocouple. The thermocouple senses when the pilot light is lit. When the thermocouple goes bad it will not send the right signals to the gas valve. When that happens the gas valve will turn off and the burner will night light. Additionally the water heater pilot light will go out.

Does the pilot light refuse to stay lit? There is a good chance you have a bad thermocouple.

Troubleshooting Problems with the Pilot Light of Your Natural Gas Furnace

Every natural gas furnace contains a pilot light which is there to ignite the gas burner. This component of the furnace must be on for the unit itself to be running. Troubleshooting problems with your pilot light is not necessarily difficult. Simply follow the guide below for helpful tips.

Understand Your Pilot Light

Before you can troubleshoot anything, you have to know what is going on in the first place. There is a component of the natural gas furnace called the thermocouple, and it acts as a sensor for the pilot light to determine if the heat coming from the burner is enough to handle the burning fuel from the burner. If the pilot is not producing enough heat, then it shuts off the gas valve. This is all necessary to prevent gas from leaking into your home and causing fires beyond where they need to be. In short, if the pilot light goes off, the furnace ceases production.

Prepare to Relight the Pilot Light

Assuming that the pilot light is out, you have to relight it. There are slight variations on how to do this from one furnace or another. To be on the safe side, check your instruction manual or the instructions listed on the furnace door for specifics about your unit. For the purposes of this guide, we will assume that you have a standing pilot light (one that remains lit at all times)

Relight the Pilot Light

Once you have reviewed the instructions for your unit, you will need to turn your thermostat to "Heat" and crank it up to 80 degrees to get it going. Find the pilot valve on your furnace and find the box the knob with the on/off options. Turn that knob to "Off". Find the pilot light near the gas burner tubes. Use a long match or lighter to ignite the flame. Do so by setting the knob or reset button from "Off" to "Pilot" Hold the lit match or lighter up to the pilot and depress the knob or button for 30 seconds. On th pilot remains lit, turn the knob or button to "On".

If the Relight Does Not Work

First try to wait a few minutes and then repeat the procedure above. Use a time of 60 seconds instead to ensure that the thermocouple has enough time to get hot. If that doesn't solve the problem, proceed onto other troubleshooting techniques.

If the Pilot Does Not Stay Lit

If you find that the pilot light does not remain lit after re-ignition, you likely have a problem with your thermocouple. Consult with your instruction manual once again to find out how to replace that unit. Then relight and test accordingly.

If the Flame is Irregular

If you have a faint or irregular flame coming out of your natural gas furnace, you may need to be adjusted. The flame should be blue, not yellow. If it is not the right color, then it means it's not the right temperature and could be sending bad signals to the thermocouple. Find the screw for your pilot made to adjust the flame. Follow your instruction manual to determine how to set it.

Other Problems

If you notice your flame is flickering, you likely have a draft issue. If there is a spitting motion coming out, there may be dirt in the tubes. You can clean this out with a small nail.

Saturday, 18 May 2013

Pontiac Firebird Trans Am: 2001 Pontiac trans am. alternator

2001 Pontiac trans am. alternator replaced with aftermarket unit. The original alternator tested bad at the local auto shack. The new alternator is not charging. Does this mean I need to use a factory unit?

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Firebird Trans Am
Year: 2001
Engine: 5.7

Already Tried:
New aftermarket alternator.

Have you tested for power at the alternator connections?

Customer replied2 days and 21 hours ago.

no. The car is not at home right now. What should I check for? Is there anything that has to be done with/to the computer when changing the alternator? If I have power at the alternator does that mean the new one is bad?
Accepted Answer

Expert:  Dave Nova replied2 days and 21 hours ago.

Nothing needs to be done to the computer when replacing the alternator. Make sure there is voltage on the large stud terminal at the back of the alternator. Then turn the key on and test for voltage on the small red wire at the plug in connector. If you have voltage at both connections, the alternator is bad and should be replaced again.

Pontiac Grand Prix GT: 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8L no cooling

1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8L no cooling fans unless A/C is on.

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Prix GT
Year: 1997
Engine: 3.8l

Already Tried:
Unplugged coolant temp sensor next to thermostat, and the fans did not come on even then. Will only come on with A/C.

Does the check engine light come on with engine running?
How hot does the engine get if idling without the a/c on?

Customer replied2 days and 17 hours ago.
The engine gets warm, but I wouldn't say hot. It doesn't have a gasket problem. No CEL.

Expert:  Dave Nova replied2 days and 17 hours ago.

Fans should of course come on when the coolant sensor is unplugged. Fans also come on when the temperature reaches 225-228 degrees. Does the engine reach that temperature range or more?

Customer replied2 days and 17 hours ago.
Well, see, that's what I thought. That's why I unplugged it, but they didn't come on. And they DO run with the A/C on, which is weird, so I'm not inclined to think it's the motors obviously. The temp gauge does, but I don't know if it is accurate or not. I can shoot it.

Expert:  Dave Nova replied2 days and 17 hours ago.

Let's see what the actual temperature reading gets up to and go from there.

Customer replied2 days and 16 hours ago.
Ugh, hold on. My mechanic did not turn the vehicle ON, just to the on position. When ON, and the sensor is UNPLUGGED, they run. So it's the sensor, right?
Accepted Answer

Expert:  Dave Nova replied2 days and 16 hours ago.

That would be correct. If the fans come on with the sensor unplugged and the engine running then the computer, relays, fan motors, and wiring are all okay and this would indicate a problem with the sensor. Fans still will not come on until 225-228 even with a good sensor installed.

Pontiac Grand Prix GTP: 2004 pontiac temperature gauge just

2004 pontiac temperature gauge just stopped working.
Drove car this morning it was working.
Shut off the car, went it store, started the car and noticed no temp gauge and the cooling fans were blowing.
I do have a lower intake manifold leak....not too severe, that I'm in the process of fixing.
What would cause gauge to stop working, causing the cooling fans to kick on?

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Prix GTP
Year: 2004
Engine: 3.8 supercharged

Already Tried:
Currently using 180 degree T-stat. That was installed 3 months ago. Checked HVAC fuse, that is ok.
Submitted: 2 days and 16 hours ago.
Category: Pontiac
Value: $18
Status: CLOSED

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 16 hours ago.
Hello I will help you with your question,
Is your coolant full?
If the coolant drops below the tip of the coolant sensor then it will read cold and the engine computer which "knows" it should read normal will flag this as a problem, turn on the fans as it cannot be sure of the temperature and turn on the check engine light.
Let me know if this is the case
Thank you
Customer replied2 days and 16 hours ago.
Yes, coolant recovery tank is full and radiator is full... close to the neck.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 16 hours ago.
OK, check the coolant sensor connection and the sensor resistance if you have an ohmeter. The gauges do go bad on these years but usually the computer does not turn on the check engine light or turn on the fans if that happens.
Let me know how I can help you with this
Customer replied2 days and 16 hours ago.

I'll check the connection.

I don't have an ohmeter.

The check engine light is not on....only the fans.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
Sorry I don't know where I got that... You can disconnect the sensor and bridge the connector with a paperclip (don't let it touch the engine metal!) and see if the gauge goes full hot. If it does the problem is in the sensor.
Let me know how I can help
THank you
Customer replied2 days and 15 hours ago.

ok, I'll try that.

If I take it only short distances, it is still driveable?

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
As long as the coolant is full, the fans are running and the engine does not seem like it is overheating it is safe to drive. YOu can run the heater and if it starts putting out super hot air or goes dead cold you need to stop the engine
Please let me know how I can help
Thank you
Customer replied2 days and 15 hours ago.

with the clip bridged, should I be able to get a reading with the car off?

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
YOu will need to turn the key on to see the gauge move and wait for a minute to see if there is any action.
Please let me know what questions you have
Customer replied2 days and 15 hours ago.

no movement with the gauge.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
Sounds like the gauge died but you do need to have the codes pulled from the computer. An autoparts store will do this at no cost but I think you know this. If the code is a cooling system code you still need to look further, if you have a scanner that will show data look to see what engine temp is displayed.
Let me know what you find with this so I can help
Thank you
Customer replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
Ok, I'll check it out.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
Please let me know what you find, any code you may get and what I can do to help
Customer replied2 days and 12 hours ago.


When I reconnected the coolant temp sensor, the check engine light came on and stayed on until I got it scanned.

The code that came up was "coolant temp sensor" and the reading for the coolant was, "cool."

Is it safe to say that it's the coolant temp sensor causing this problem?

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 12 hours ago.
If you clear the code and run it through a heating cycle, let it cool down and run it through one more cycle on the third cold start the code will reset if it is a valid code. The code may have set due to the sensor being unplugged with the key on.
Did you get the code number?
Were you able to see the data for the coolant temperature when the code was read?
Customer replied2 days and 12 hours ago.

I didn't get the code number, but I did see it say, coolant temp sensor.

I just asked what the scanner said about the coolant temp. and he said that it was reading as "cool."

I'm going back tomorrow to pick up a temp sensor.

I'll get you the code number tomorrow.

Thanks for your help.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 12 hours ago.
If the engine temp shows cool when it is hot you problem is not in the gauge. While you are there turn the key off, disconnect the sensor, put the paperclip in and start the engine. If it now shows a code and shows hot on the engine temp on the scanner then you need a sensor. If it still shows cold then you have a problem in the wiring between the sensor connector and the computer.
Please let me know what you find when you get a chance to check
Customer replied2 days and 12 hours ago.

Ok, I'll check for all of that tomorrow.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 12 hours ago.
I will watch for your post tomorrow. No need to reply til then.
Customer replied1 days and 17 hours ago.

sorry for the delay, my pc had a problem.

As for the grand prix, I started the car this morning and the gauge was working properly and the fans were off.
Drove around today, shut the car off, started the car up and the gauge was working properly and fans remained off.

Did not go over to have the car scanned.

Expert:  George H replied1 days and 17 hours ago.
Sounds like the connection may have been restored with your testing. At least you know what to do here when it quits again.
Please let me know if you have questions about this
Thank you
Customer replied1 days and 17 hours ago.
Alright, thanks for your help.

Pontiac G6 GT: I have a Pontiac g6 gt. Panoramic moonroof wont

Customer Question

I have a 2006 Pontiac G6 GT. My Panoramic moonroof has not been able to open for the last year. No dealers around me have any clue on what to look for with my issue. they just give me the oh just buy a new one. I know it's an easy fix I just need to speak with someone who can guide me through an who has seen this same issue. My problem is this: The roof won't open up. The only movement I see happening is only on The passenger side the 1st level panel pops up an inch. When i turn the moonroof dial to Level one (vent mode) it does nothing when i go to level 2 the glass pops up an inch on the passenger side and not on the drivers side. and when i turn the dial to the rest of the levels it does nothing. and to get the passenger side to go back down it takes a few rotations of the dial to get it closed again. the noises it makes is the normal mechanic noises that it usually makes it just womt open. its like its stuck. im willin to dig into it myself i just need guidence. what do I try?

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: G6 GT
Year: 2006
Engine: V6 3.5

Already Tried:
Pushing up on the glass and random tries
Submitted: 2 days and 9 hours ago.
Category: Pontiac
Value: $38

Expert:  FIXITMAN replied2 days and 9 hours ago.

Hello, and thank you for allowing me the opportunity to help you. If I am not online when you are, please allow me time to return. Does the shade still work?
Customer : Yes it still works perfectly fine
Customer : The mechanics don't make any weird noises. It's just budge at all on the left side and only pops into vent mode on the right side
Customer : Won't budge on the left side
Customer : I updated my question with more detail::
Customer : I have a 2006 Pontiac G6 GT. My Panoramic moonroof has not been able to open for the last year. No dealers around me have any clue on what to look for with my issue. they just give me the oh just buy a new one. I know it's an easy fix I just need to speak with someone who can guide me through an who has seen this same issue. My problem is this: The roof won't open up. The only movement I see happening is only on The passenger side the 1st level panel pops up an inch. When i turn the moonroof dial to Level one (vent mode) it does nothing when i go to level 2 the glass pops up an inch on the passenger side and not on the drivers side. and when i turn the dial to the rest of the levels it does nothing. and to get the passenger side to go back down it takes a few rotations of the dial to get it closed again. the noises it makes is the normal mechanic noises that it usually makes it just womt open. its like its stuck. im willin to dig into it myself i just need guidence. what do I try?
Thank you for the response. Typically this is either a problem with the switch or the control module for the roof. I would recommend removing the switch and testing it with an ohm meter. If you pop off the trim panel around the switch you will be able to remove the switch. I can walk you through testing the resistance of the switch then. If the switch tests fine then I would replace the module.
Are there any other electrical concerns in the vehicle?
Customer : no everything works normal.
Customer : is there a way to reset the moonroof settings.
Customer : let me take off the switch and try that and I will respond after that.
Customer : my personal email is XXXXX@XXXXXX.XXX
Customer : i appreciate your advice because this moonroof is the reason I bought the car and ik things can be fixed for cheap and I feel this is a small problem and not a full replacement problem. But let me get back to you after I test the switch
To reset it you can pull the LAMELLA ROOF fuse in the rear fuse panel. Let me know if you pull the switch out.
Customer : Alright so I changed the rear fuses. And took off the switch and am gonna check resistance but what specifically do I look for on ohm meter
Customer : I've checked the contacts I just need details as to what is good or bad.
Customer : The three pin has no contact to anything
Customer : From testing the contact here is what I got
Customer : o- 4,5 closed
Customer : 1- 1,4&1,5&4,5 closed
Customer : 2- 1,4 closed
Customer : 3- 1,2 &1,4 & 2,4 closed
Customer : 4- 1,2 & 1,4 & 1,5 & 2,4& 2,5& 4,5 closed
Customer : Far left is the levels from the switch 0-4 and there was 5 pins tested. 1-5. Please let me know where were at. My email is dbrownpro at gmail
FIXITMAN : Contact 4 is the common contact point so leave one of your test leads there. I need to know what the resistance reading is on #5 when switch to position 1, 1 on position 2 and 2 on position 3 if that makes sense.
Customer : I've checked the resistance on the points you just have and they all end up 0
Customer : Position1 = 4,5=0
Customer : position2. = 4,1= 0
Customer : position 3 = 4,2 = 0
Customer : i have the switch completely out of the car on my kitchen table to make sure I'm testing it correctly
Customer : what should my next steps be are these signs bad?
FIXITMAN : These readings look fine. I would now check the ground connection shown below. Make sure that it is clean and tight. If it is fine then it is either a faulty sunroof control module or the programming in the module has failed. If you know of a shop with a good computer scanner they should be able to reset the programming for you. let me know what you find with the ground.

Pontiac Grand Am GT: have a 2003 pontiac

my name is XXXXX XXXXX have a 2003 pontiac grand am gt, V-6 ENGINE, with 55k miles on it,,,,,,my question is about the cooling system,,,,, everything seems to be ok but i have a few questions

1) i have always noticed, especially in summer, the temp guage would go up to about 210 to 215 then come back to normal which is about 200 degrees.

2) this past winter, the thermostat was stuck closed, the guage would only get to about 180 or so,,,,, the thermostat was not opening and i wasnt getting the proper heat in the car,,,,, i had the thermostat replaced,,, everything was fine,, the heat inside was good again,,, the temp guage would get to about 200 then hold steady there,,,, remember - this was during the cold weather months.

now, with the warmer weather, here is what i am getting on the temp guage.

1) at about 200 degrees, the thermostat seems to be opening fine and on the colder mornings, i am getting good heat inside the car with no problem ( AND THE AC IS BLOWING COLD TOO WHEN I TURN IT ON ).

2) when i am in traffic, with the heat and ac off, the temp guage seems to go up to about 210 to 215 before it comes back down to about 200.

i have been doing some reading online and i want to make sure that the cooling fans are operating properly so here is what i did this morning:

1) in my driveway, i started the car, let it idle in park, with no heat or ac on.

2) at about 195 to 200 on the temp guage, the thermostat seemed to open properly because the top radiator hose became very hot to the touch.

3) i proceeded to let the car idle, the temp guage slowly went up.

4) after about 15 minutes after i started the car, and with the temp guage reading about 212 to 215 degrees or so, both cooling fans came on. ( i assume that the speed of the fans was low at this time )

5) the temp guage started to slowly come back down to about 200 to 201 or 202 degrees,,, this only took a few minutes.

6) about 5 minutes later, with the temp guage still reading about 200 degrees, both fans were still on.

7) so i turned the car off, then turned back on, the temp guage went to 200 degrees and the fans were off, so i figured all was ok.






i do think that all is ok based upon all that i have read about these 2003 grand am gt cars,,, MOST OF WHAT I HAVE READ SAYS THAT THESE CARS TEND TO RUN " ON THE HOT " SIDE,,,, THAT MY READINGS ON MY TEMP GUAGE ARE NORMAL,,,, i am not looking for any kind of electrical schematics or anything like that since i would not troubleshoot this car on my own,,,,, everything is way too compact under for the hood for me to do anything on my own.


Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Am GT
Year: 2003
Engine: V-6


Based on the information you have given, your cooling fans are operating as designed. Please note that your gauge readings may not exactly match the reading the computer gets from the coolant temperature sensor, but should be close. The system is designed to turn the fans on at 223 degrees and off again when the coolant reaches around 200-210 degrees. High speed operation is commanded if the coolant temperature reaches 230 degrees.

The reason the computer runs the engine coolant temperatures high is that this helps to reduce exhaust emissions when idling.

If there is anything else I can help with, please let me know.

Customer replied1 days and 20 hours ago.




Expert:  Dave Nova replied1 days and 20 hours ago.

I would not be concerned about this. If you left the engine running a bit longer, the computer would register the temperature and would have turned the fans off. Sounds like everything is working as it should and you should have nothing to worry about.

Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.




Expert:  Dave Nova replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

Ideally that car should get around 26 to maybe 27 mpg. This of course depends on fuel quality and other factors. Winter blend fuel gives you less mileage than summer fuel. Try cleaning the throttle body first, this should at least help to cure the rough idle. Remove the air intake hose between the engine and the air filter and use throttle body cleaner spray and a soft cloth to clean the interior of the throttle body (throttle blade and bore) Open the throttle blade by hand so the bore can be cleaned around the perimeter of and behind the throttle blade.

Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

Accepted Answer

Expert:  Dave Nova replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

With an average of city and highway driving, 22 to 23 mpg is right on target. This means you are actually getting 26-28 mpg highway driving. Replacing the plugs now would not likely net you any increase in fuel economy. Wait until you hit 100k to replace the plugs. Throttle body cleaner is basically Gumout in a spray can. You can use carburetor cleaner spray from Walmart (about $2 a can) and it will work fine. Yes, disconnect the hose right where it connects to the engine, this is the throttle body. Clean the parts inside.

Expert Type Pontiac Technician
Category: Pontiac
Pos. Feedback: 97.4 %
Accepts: 1790
Answered: 5/16/2013
Experience: ASE Master Certification. GM World Class Certification
Ask this Expert a Question >
Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

Expert:  Dave Nova replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

Thank you for the positive feedback.
If you ever need anything in the future, be sure to ask for me by name.

Dave Nova

Pontiac Grand Am SE: I have a 96 pontiac grand am. The dashboard

I have a 96 pontiac grand am. The dashboard "Theft Light" comes on, the car cranks, but then immediately dies. I talked to a mechanic who said it was probably a bad key or lock and if he had to replace the lock, it would be $300 to $500. Does that sound reasonable and does that sound like the problem?

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Am SE
Year: 1996
Engine: 4 liter

Already Tried: 
Holding the key in tightly, using 2 other keys.

The problem is most commonly due to a failure in the ignition lock cylinder which houses the passlock security sensor. Replacement cost for the ignition lock cylinder is around $300 at most shops, slightly more at others. Replacing the ignition lock cylinder should fix the problem.

Car Audio Receivers

Ask Problem Related to

Car Audio Receivers

Car Audio Receivers

Problem with Pioneer DEH-P2500 CD Player

Where is the reset button on the pioneer deh-p2500


There is no reset button on most pioneer cd players only pioneers that carry reset buttons are the in dash or double din players that play dvd's

I had one, when u open the face it was up in the right corner

Friday, 19 April 2013

How do I Time a Honda Accord?

Honda Accord Timing Setting

Properly timing a Honda Accord is one way to get the most out of your Honda Accord engine. An internal combustion engine's timing refers to its ignition timing. The ignition timing determines when a spark will occur to start the Accord's VTEC engine. The factory recommended setting for the Honda Accord VTEC engine varies from year to year but it generally falls between 12 to 18 degrees before top dead center. You can adjust the ignition time with a few tools and mechanical skills.

To Time The Honda accord You Will Need Few Basic Tools Like

timing light,timing adjustment setting,wrench and wheel chocks.

Follow The Steps Below:----

Park your car.Turn off all accessories in the car including the radio, air conditioning and heat.

Use wheel chocks to chock the wheels of your car. Put the transmission in neutral, firmly engage the emergency brake, and gradually take the engine to an idle speed of 750 rpm.

Exit the Honda Accord allowing the rpm to go back to zero and open the hood to your VTEC engine.

Connect the timing light to the battery by placing the red clip on the positive terminal first and the black clip on the negative terminal second. Next, connect the timing light clamp to the number 1 spark plug wire connected the the cylinder head. Then, shine the timing light on the pulley connected to the engine's crankshaft to see check the timing mark.

Check where the timing mark on the pulley falls compared to the degree tab on the front of the engine. You should now be able to see what the current ignition timing is. You can remove the installed components if the timing is correct.

Locate the distributor lock-down bolt at the base of the distributor housing and loosen it with your wrench. Disconnect the distributor vacuum hose from the distributor housing and you will not be able to adjust the ignition timing safely.

Rotate the distributor with your hand until the timing mark on the pulley aligns with the timing index you desire. Remember, 12-18 degrees is the factory recommendation.

Reconnect the distributor vacuum hose into the distributor housing and tighten the lock-down bolt with your wrench. Remove the timing from the battery, spark plug wire, and pulley. Close the hood of your car and remove the wheel chocks.

This Will Help.

Learn Cartridge Refilling

Hi,this is Team OF Printer Expert.

Yes you have a printer issue or a problem related to computer or laptop.

This indicates that you have a printer.

Now-a-days cost of new ink-jet and Laser cartridge is sky high.
Also the cost of compatible or recycled cartridge is much.

Your best option is getting your cartridge refilled.
But the cartridge refilling store charges much more then actual refilling cost.

Do You Know?????????????? 
The basic cost of refilling black ink cartridge is less then $1 and Same For Color Ink cartridges.

Yes Its That LOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The basic cost for for refilling Black toner cartridge is Under $2.

For Color Laser Toner Refilling it cost's approx $15.

Now you just calculate how much you are getting charged.


We are from cartridge refilling store,with experience of cartridge refilling more then 10 years.

We will guide you how to refill your printer cartridges.

Whether its laser or ink-jet.
Color or black cartridge.

We will just charge you $2 for one cartridge.

Once you understand how to refill the cartridge.You can refill your cartridge every-time for free,when its empty.

Suppose you have two cartridge one black and one color.

So you just have to pay $4 and we will guide you step by step to get your cartridge refill,online.
So you can do it.
We will help you,till you are not comfortable with refilling your cartridge.

Same for Laser Cartridges.We will just charge you $2 to explain you how to refill your laser cartridges.


1) Using Refilled Cartridge In Printer,will damage the printer.

This is very wrong.The fact is using low quality refill ink and laser powder will damage the printer or cartridge.But if you use quality ink,then nothing will get damaged.We at our service center are using refilled cartridges since 12 years and the printer is still working as good as new.

2) Instead Of Refilled Cartridge I prefer Using Compatible Cartridge.

Now what is recycled cartridge or what is compatible cartridge.Most of re-ccled cartridges are one time used cartridges.Compatible cartridges are one time used cartridges.The cartridge is cleaned and then good quality ink is used to fill it and sold as compatible cartridge.So instad of buying compatible cartridge,you can get your own cartridge refilled.

3) How Many Times A cartridge Can Be Refilled?

Basically the cartridge can be refilled N-number of timer.
But as per our experience if you maintain your printer vell and use your printer regularly to take printouts then cartridges have good life.If you rarely use printer hen cartridges get dried and then stop printing.

For black cartridges it can be refilled 3 to 4 times.For color cartridge it can be refilled twice.
For laser cartridges it can be refilled lots of times,just a drum and internal roller,blades get worn out by time and you have to replace that.

4) Are all parts easily available in local market?

Yes the all required parts are easily available.You need good quality ink,OPC drum,rubber roller,wiper blade,doctor blade,toner power,tissue paper, etc.
And this is all easily available.

5) Will You help us selecting the best quality parts?

Yes of course i will help you. Also i will confirm you with the cost,if its too much costly.I will suggest you to go to another dealer who sells such printer cartridge parts.

6) Will You ship required inks and powder at my Place?

Of course,i will ship the part,but i think this are common parts and easily available everywhere.But still if you are not able to get i will ship it to your place.You will have to pay the required charges of shipping and material cost.

7) What if i am not able to refill my cartridge after i pay you $2?

Its a very simple procedure.It hardly take minutes to refill cartridges.we will guide you at our best possibility,and you will be able to refill the cartridge.But if in some rare case if you are not able to refill it,then you can re-use your $2 for any other cartridge.May be of your friend or colleague or neighbor.

Yes but if we are not able to guide you for any particular cartridge,then you will get the refund.


Just send your printer details with 
printer model:
Printer Brand:
Give Exact Cartridge number that is mentioned on cartridge sticker.
Mention whether its color cartridge or black cartridge.
Is it ink-jet or laser cartridge.

Send your details to

This is no 24 hour online service.So once you provide your printer details,we will definitely reply you in next 24 hours.

Regularly we are live from 10 Am to 10 Pm.

Now After Reading This All ,Don't Tell $2 Is Very Costly.

At-least That Is Our Right To Earn.

You Will Save Lifetime On That Particular Cartridge Refilling For Which You Pay.

Wednesday, 6 February 2013

How To Deal With Frequent Engine oil Changes?


Q: Own few different vehicles and these are its oil details.
My oil of choice is Quaker State with AC/Delco filters. I drive one of our cars eighty miles per day and change both the filter and oil at 3000 miles, 1.5 months. The other is around town and it gets changed at 3000 miles, the 3-month mark. The last one is a ‘72 Corvette, engine overhauled just before I purchased the car 5 years ago. This one I change the oil and filter when it's placed in winter storage. The Corvette is driven anywhere from 1.5k to 2k miles per summer. The oil is changed once per year. How should the classic car owner handle oil changes? I've never used full synthetic oil in any of my cars and would like to know your thoughts about this issue, pros and cons. In what conditions would you recommend the use of full synthetic oils. Should you upgrade to high efficient filters when using the synthetics?

A: At our Auto garage we make the use of synthetic engine oils and as a mechanic i myself also use them in my owned vehicles. But with that said, what you have been using (regular engine oil) is a cost effective and has been proven over the long haul. There are many vehicles on the road with over 200k miles that have used regular engine oil. I feel that the maintenance choice that you have made on your primary vehicles is sound. About the only thing I would do different with the Corvette is change the oil a minimum of 2 times a year. Why? The inside of the engine, even when the vehicle is not being driven, is a chemical lab at work. The oil that is in the engine is being assaulted in a variety of ways that causes the additive packages to break down and reduce the protection.

As per my auto garage repair experience i suggest, when you first bring your Corvette out for summer fun give it a good drive and really warm the engine up. Then shut the engine down and drain the oil immediately. Running the engine causes the oil to pick-up contaminants that have formed over the winter and suspend them in the oil. Draining the oil while it is hot proves to be more effective at removing these contaminants. Then install fresh oil and a new filter for the summer.

Electro chemical Degradation Causes Cooling System Failure

Cooling System Failure on  Chevy Vehicle

 Q: Mechanic said  electrochemical degradation causing cooling system failure. It seems to be a hidden problem with some vehicles which causes radiator failure. I read a car-care article describing how to check for stray voltage using a DVM. So I took some measurements. I put the negative probe on the engine ground and positive in the coolant of the surge tank of my 2005 Chevy Equinox. I measured +200mVDC with the engine off and about +240mVDC with it running. The engine was only cool to warm when I did this cautiously. Is this too high of a voltage? Will this cause problems with my cooling system in the future? What can I do if it is a problem?

A: First Off all i will say, Electrochemical degradation of the cooling system is a problem in today’s vehicles; this chemical reaction is called electrolysis.

What is Electrolysis the details are a follows:---

Electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the coolant and the components that the coolant contacts, which eats away at the heater core, radiator and engine material. The most common cause for this condition is due to coolant acidity. Also bad electrical grounds on the engine or body of the vehicle can create this erosive condition.

I suggest yo to properly test.
To correctly check for the potential of electrolysis the engine has to be running, at about 2000 RPM, at operating temperature with the coolant flowing or the readings will not be correct. Place the negative probe of the voltmeter on the negative battery post and place the positive probe in the coolant.

Make sure that the positive probe is only touching the coolant. If the voltmeter displays 400mv (.4v) DC or greater then the cooling system needs to be flushed. After flushing the system be sure to check the coolant again. It is not uncommon to have to flush the coolant more than once to sufficiently cleanse the system. If an elevated voltage is still present then the electrical system of the vehicle has to be checked for ground integrity. I’ve even seen the need for additional grounding straps to get an electrically challenged vehicle back in line.

Consequences of using wrong fuel

Wrong Gas fill up in Car

Q: What are the consequences when you inadvertently pumped diesel fuel into an automobile gasoline tank. I have been told this happens frequently.Any quick fix when these occurs?

A: The biggest problem I’ve seen is a headache. Why a headache? Because the driver of the vehicle doesn't happen to mention as I am going bats trying to diagnose a starting and rough running problem that they PUT THE WRONG FUEL IN!! Oh, "I didn’t think I put that much in so I didn’t think is was worth mentioning". In our region even the diesel fuel pumps have the same size nozzles as the unleaded fuel pumps.

But in real,yes this does happen. When it does happen, the best and quickest fix is to drain the gas tank. It doesn't take much diesel fuel to really screw up today’s computerized vehicle’s. Not saying anything is just going to cost you labor$ until you tell the whole true.

Vehicle Computer Module Reset

How to Reset ECM/ECU

Car Computer Reset Or Car Computer Software Reset

Q: Options for dumping the computer by taking the negative terminal off and touching it to the positive for 20 seconds to clear the computer of any stored codes. If so, will a vehicle that’s equipped with air bags, possibly deploy the air bag?

A: Actually it’s a common practice to disconnect both battery terminals and not only hold them together but to connect them for the duration of the service being performed. For example when servicing the air bags some vehicles require the battery cables being joined for 15 minutes to a half hour before performing service or repairs that involve the air bag system. It is not uncommon for today’s vehicles to have several computers on-board. Inside the computers there are capacitors that will hold/store electrical energy. Connecting the battery cables provides a means of dissipating this stored energy without causing any harm. In most cases (not all vehicles) the software to operate the systems is not volatile and will be safely retained in the computer/s. If you have an anti-theft radio be sure you have the radio code so it can be reactivated.

What is Maintenance Free Car Batteries

Details regarding car battery 

Q: Do today's car batteries need distilled water added periodically or are they truly "maintenance free"? Thanks.

A: There are many good brand auto batteries available in market. Car batteries  from Walmart stores are preferred most.Also you can get batteries from Autozone service centers.
Not all of today's batteries are truly "Maintenance Free", although you will find the term applied to almost every battery sold. A large portion of batteries still provide a point to inspect and, if necessary, add water to the battery cells. "Maintenance Free" means you don't have to worry about it until it breaks.

Tuesday, 5 February 2013

Adding Fuel Additive to Fuel System


Can Fuel Additive Kill a Fuel System? Yes OR No?

Q: Actually I added some STP "Jet Fuel" fuel additive to my vehicles fuel system. And since after that my fuel pump goes out. Is this a problem with the additive or a coincidence?  PleaseHelp!!!!!!!!!!!!

A: Its not good to be applying mechanic tricks without mechanical knowledge.
Why did you add the fuel treatment? Did you feel that your vehicle wasn't running right? I often find that customers, who normally do not use fuel additives, will suddenly change their habits when their vehicle doesn't seem to be running right. More often than not, this is a reaction to a problem that is surfacing with a vehicle, but has not fully manifested itself. Fuel additives such as STP’s Jet Fuel as with other such additives are meant to be used as maintenance products. These additives are not meant to repair a part that is failing. Their job is to help clean and maintain engine performance. There is no doubt in my mind that your vehicle’s fuel pump was failing. It is just a coincidence and nothing more.

Buick Alternator Makes Taping Noise

Noisy Alternator

Buick LeSabre, Failing Alternators 

Q: My Buick LeSabre is making a loud tapping noise. As per noise it appears to be coming from the alternator. The alternator has been replaced twice since 1997. Could it be the alternator again? Or its something else?

A: It can be again alternator.But to confirm the problem,you have to first check it.Try these simple test.
Remove the serpentine belt and spin the alternator by hand to check for bearing problems, etc. If the alternator is the cause then it will have to be replaced again. Be sure to check the mounting bolts and brackets for looseness or wear that would cause mounting strain on the alternator. Also be sure that the automatic belt tensioner is not binding. A failing tensioner can raise havoc with belt driven accessories.

When Exactly to Replace Brake Fluid

Whats the Correct Time For Brake Fluid change Or Brake Fluid Flush

Time For Brake Fluid Service

Q: My Local car garage owner said that very 30k miles, one should drain the brake fluid and flush and replace it with new fluid. What’s your opinion? Is he right or should i wait?

A: To understand when to replace brake fluid, i suggest you to first read and understand the brake fluid theory.
The details are as follows:-----

Brake fluid is a hygroscopic fluid, which means it is designed to absorb moisture, yes water. Why would you want brake fluid to absorb moisture? A vehicle that is in motion has energy. To stop that vehicle you have to remove that energy. To do that the energy is converted to heat. I know it seems odd and you may think that the exhaust fumes have gotten to me. I won’t argue that. But it is true that it is the creation of heat that stops your vehicle. When you step on your brakes two pieces rub together. The friction of this makes heat and lots of it. Brakes will easily get hotter than 212 degrees. Guess what would happen if water wasn’t absorbed by brake fluid? It would collect and when you really needed to stop? The water would boil, change to a gas/air. Your vehicle wasn’t designed to stop with air brakes. So to convert that energy you’d have to hit something! Not a good idea. Brake fluid service/flush is a needed service.

Some manufacturers list brake fluid flushes as scheduled maintenance, others do not. How does one know if their vehicle’s brake fluid needs service? There are electronic testers and test strips that can measure the moisture content in brake fluid. Regular service of the brake fluid will prolong brake component life and allow anti-lock brake systems to function correctly.

Air Conditioner Problems

Car Ac not working

Q: I turned my A/C on for the first time this year and found that it didn’t work. My local mechanic suggested air conditioner repair or recharge air conditioner.So i took it to the professional car Air Conditioner repair shop. Thinking it was just low in a refrigerant charge. The mechanic recharged the system and charged me $65, which I thought was high for the new refrigerant. After all you can buy the stuff in a do it yourself kit at BJ’s for $30. Less than 2 days later I turned my A/C on and guess what? It didn’t work! I went back to the garage and told them that the A/C had quit and wanted to know what kind of warranty they provide? The mechanic said that there was none. After Basic air conditioner troubleshooting, he said it can be air conditioner compressor issue.But to properly confirm the problem it will take some time.It can also be the    leak in system and that would require diagnosis to determine where the leak was and what parts would be needed. To add to the insult he said that he may have to recharge the system to find the leak! All for which I’ll have to pay for!! I’m considering taking that grease monkey to small claims court!! But for now I want my A/C working. How does one find a leak and repair it ? It can’t be that hard.

A: One moment please while this monkey wipes the grease off his hands. Ahh, that’s better. Now my club paws won’t hit too many keys as I pound away. I won’t bore you with the little details like required licensing and equipment that a shop must have to perform any type of A/C work. If the EPA’s Ice Dogs happen to stop by a shop that is missing a step in the rules, the tech can be fined enough to buy a real nice boat, one with a real motor. The shop owner can be fined enough to buy a house. Of course, fines do not include lawyer fees. What’s ironic about the rules is any consumer can walk into a BJ’s, Walmart or whatever and buy a kit to recharge their A/C system. I thought for a moment I’d share some diagnostic tips with you, but what if you cut yourself following my advice? Would I too be responsible! Depending on the area you live in $60 for a snow and go (short for refill the system and send them on their way) is not a high price. You did not pay for any diagnosis, you paid for a recharge. If the A/C system stopped working after a couple of days then there’s a leak. The first step in correcting the problem is in diagnosing and locating the leak. Once the leak is located the failed component can be replaced. There is a whole array of diagnostic equipment on the market, some of which starts just under $500. That equipment comes with directions (you know the white stuff with black squiggles on it). You seem to be a bright person, I’m sure with some practice you’ll be an A/C pro in no time at all! Just think of the money you’ll save!

Auto Repair Laws And Safety Rules

Auto Laws & Repairs

Q: What are auto laws about repairs done by an auto repair shop and what about repairs that were not done right? What about ones you didn't give them permission to do?
Is there any kind of booklet or manual to know about this and whats your view on this?

A: About anyone can guess why you might be asking such questions.
These few things should be ready with you:-----

  • The first thing I would suggest to you is to organize your concerns on paper. 
  • You need to have your facts in order with documentation. 
  • Once you've done this, contact the repair facility and speak with the owner. 
  • Review these concerns and ask if he or she would be willing to address these issues/concerns and come to an agreement. 
Many times there is a loss of communication that results in confusion and unhappy parties over repairs. Most importantly maintain control, don’t let you emotions run the conversation, even if some tongue biting is needed. Some controlled and stable time on the phone can be productive for both parties involved. If this doesn't work just end the conversation with I’m sorry we couldn't work this out. After that, call the better business bureau. They can guide you on the laws and rights you have as a consumer. If you've been wrongly charged for repairs then you do have rights and recourse available to you.

Bad Odor Smell From A/C Heater

Vehicle A/C Heater Smells Bad

Bad Odor Smells Like Mold

Q: Whats the reason  I get a bad odor when I turn on the vent, heater or air conditioner? Is this smell bad for my health ?
Its very much unbearable?

A: Breathing mold spores is not good for anybody's heath! Why is there mold in your ventilation system?

There are few possible reasons for such smell to be noticed.
Below i wil explain in much detail:-----

Either water is not draining correctly, there is tree and leaf type matter collected in the system or rodents have stopped in and laid the ground work for a new housing development.

If your vehicle is equipped (it would be great to know what you have for a vehicle) with a cabin filter then it may need replacing.

For those of you who do not know, many of today's vehicle have a filter for filtering the incoming air for the passenger compartment.
This filter works great and I think it's the best thing since milking parlors! If you grew up on a dairy farm you'd understand.
Also cabin filters can be upgraded with charcoal filter elements.
With these filters you can hardly tell you're following a smelly diesel truck.

In any case your vehicle's ventilation system needs a cleaning, rotor rooting, rodent routing or a new cabin filter.

Scheduled Maintenance As per Dealer OR Manufacturer

When Exactly Scheduled Maintenance has to be Done

Dealer or Manufacturer Who is right?

Q: Its confusing when exactly to get the vehicle serviced.  In a MSN article they mentioned that a service should be done on the manufacturer's schedule, not the dealer's. Is the manufacturer's schedule what is listed in the car manual? This also shows major service at 30k miles. On the Ford Web Site it just refers you to the dealer for the maintenance schedule. How do you find the correct "manufacturer's" recommendation?

I suggest using the maintenance schedule in the Owner's Manual as a guide. The Owner's Manual provides the guidelines for required maintenance for warranty purposes and suggested maintenance to keep your vehicle operating safely and reliably. When a customer comes into our shop and asks what type of service their vehicle needs we'll refer to the Owner's Manual as a guide. The manual is clear on defining service intervals and maintenance that is often overlooked. As a consumer you should maintain records in the event a warranty issue should arise and be on the watch for redundant type service. For example in New Hampshire the annual state safety inspection program covers much that is suggested for safety and service inspections on the Owner's Manual. Asking a repair shop or dealer to perform that work again is redundant and adds needlessly to the cost of keeping your vehicle in good operating condition. The Owner's Manual is a good guide, but like most things in life a little salt and common sense can get you a long way.

Shock recommendation?

Looking to upgrade shocks

Q: What brand of rear shocks do you recommend for a 1995 2WD? I haul some fairly heavy things sometimes and the vehicle must be weighted down for traction in winter. When I weigh it down, it sags a good bit. I am currently running factory shocks. Thanks for the advice. in advance?

A: First, understand why shock absorbers are used. The job of the shock absorbers is to keep the tire on the road; they are not designed to lift a vehicle. But, there are shock absorbers that are modified to assist in maintaining the ride height of a vehicle.

The modified shocks are generally found in 2 configurations: air assisted (known to many as air shocks) and coil assisted (shocks with coil springs).

  • The coil assisted shocks are designed to maintain vehicle ride height with about 200 lbs. of additional weight in the vehicle, rates vary depending on manufacturer. 
  • Air assisted shocks have air lines that join together at a fitting that looks similar to a tire valve stem. 
The air pressure can be increased or decreased as needed to maintain the vehicle's ride height.
For more details before buying ,Check the manufacturer's specification regarding the additional load abilities of these shocks.
If the load you're carrying is greater than the manufacturer's recommendation then consider installing stronger springs with heavy duty shocks.That will help.

Synthetic engine oil OR conventional engine oil

Best Engine Oil To Use

Synthetic Oil, How Long Will It Go?

Q: Vehicle miles getting close to  first oil change.Its for 1999 Ford Explorer (3000 miles). Would there be much of an advantage to go to synthetic oil after the break in period? Can you go longer between oil changes with synthetic or do you lose the protection if you go longer?

A: As per my Auto garage Repair Experience i will suggest Synthetic engine oil to be used.Synthetic engine oil is a better product than conventional engine oil. Generally, synthetic oils exceed all car and light truck manufacturer warranty requirements. Can you go longer between oil changes with synthetic oil? If you have a new vehicle you'd better not! Whether you're using conventional motor oil or synthetic you must change the engine oil as required by the vehicle manufacturer. The reason? The manufacturer, can and has, the right to void the warranty on the vehicle's engine if the engine oil is not changed as specified (mileage/time) in the Owner's Manual. I use synthetic oil myself, there's no doubt in my mind that synthetic oil will provide superior protection to your vehicle's engine. As for extending your oil change intervals? Stick to the manufacturer's recommended service intervals, or you could lose your warranty protection.

My Auto Repair Mechanic Is Cheating On Me



Q: Having trouble with a mechanic who had worked on my auto. I am seeking organizations or some place that keeps files on bad mechanics. He operates out of three businesses that are cash only operations. Also, the mechanic had made additional repairs without my knowledge and charged me extra! I to had paid the mechanic, but instead of getting a receipt I got a deposit slip. I am being taken advantage of! I do not know where to turn to? Please Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A: Very Sad to here that.I dont know why these helpers forget there aim " Honesty is the Best Policy".
We all are public helpers and for the public.
I know why he only took cash! He hadn’t had time to get a checking account for his three businesses. No wait! To open a checking account for a business the company name has to be registered with the state before the bank will allow the account to be opened. Oh, he had three businesses, it takes a lot of time register those businesses. But you just wait, once the businesses are registered you can go to the better business bureau and file a complaint. I’m curious to just what led you to take your vehicle to a cash for repairs mechanic? Was it the low labor rate or bring your own parts? I mean something had to draw you in? If I called a contractor to work on my house and found that he only expects cash under three possible business names I wouldn’t let him on the property and you let a guy like this work on your car? Oh, I’m sure this cash only “dude” had plenty of insurance too. Look, for a reputable business to open, the owner has to lay a lot out on the line. But there’s more to it than just money. A real business is held to a higher level of accountability. This accountability is enforced by state laws and regulations to aid and protect the consumer. When you do business with people like “the dude” you’re on your own. Yes it is likely you were taken advantage of. It is unlikely you have any reasonable recourse. Where do you turn now? The right direction is away from “the dude’s” shop to a real repair facility. Education comes in many forms. This is one of those life lessons, be sure to learn by it.

Fact About Tornado/Cyclone Fuel Savers

Are These Tornado/Cyclone Real Fuel Savers OR Not?

Q: It shows ads on TV regarding saving fuel and I think it's too good to be true. So, do the Tornado fuel savers really work and save you money? Please Guide me regarding these before i go for these product?

A: Here are my thoughts on these marvels of technology that have eluded engineers from all of the car and truck manufacturers. Just imagine a miracle product that would increase horsepower and gas mileage! After all, if you got better gas mileage it would mean you also reduced emissions! The world’s dependency on oil would be washed away! Along with this special you would get the cap snaffle.  It snaffles caps off of any size jug or bottle and it really really works! But wait there’s more!!! If it is surely a marvel of technology and it really really works the inventor would be rich and living on an island not pushing their wares in infomercials. As for the cap snaffle, it really does work, I have one.

Automatic Transmission Shifter Will Not Lock

Transmission Shifter Lock Issues

Unlockable Automatic Transmission Shifter Lock

Q: The shifter would not unlock out of park on my car. After following the procedure in the Owner's Manual, we were able to get it to release. What do you think the problem is?
And Whats the Approx Repair cost for such problems?

A: Your Problem description is not clear regarding your car model.Knowing the year, make and model of your vehicle would make things a little easier to answer your question.

But still that doesn't matter too much.
I will try my best to answer your query.

Here are the details ....................

The shift-inter lock systems are found on most all makes of vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions. The reason for the shift-inter lock system is to assure that the driver of the vehicle has their foot on the brake pedal, not the gas, when moving the transmission selector from park to drive or reverse. The operating system of the shift-inter lock is reasonably generic across the line of manufacturers. There will be fuses, a brake pedal position switch (many times it is the brake light switch) a possible relay/module and last a solenoid/actuator. When the ignition is turned on electrical power goes to and activates the solenoid/actuator. The solenoid will pull a pawl/lock into place that blocks the movement of the shifter. When you step on the brake pedal another electrical signal is sent to the relay/module and it responds by canceling the other signal, which causes the shift-inter lock solenoid to release, allowing the shifter to be moved. The most common problem we see in the shop are failed fuses or worn shift-inter lock solenoids. The inside of the solenoid will wear and bind internally and will not release once activated. The fuses you can check yourself. Leave diagnosing the rest of the system to a qualified technician.

Should I Buy These Used Car

Before Buying Used Car

Beware of buying used cars

Q: Hey there, looking to purchase a used car and the owner states the only problem is with the fan. He says the car overheats quickly and there may be something wrong with something called a "Gasket". Obviously I don't know what the heck any of these items are since I'm only a driver and not knowledgeable or interested in them at all. Please respond with your answer and possible solution(s). I'd also like to know on average what I should expect to pay for either of these repairs to be done.

A: Stay away! In no way would I recommend purchasing that vehicle! The problems you described are big dollars that could easily double the cost of the vehicle. Before purchasing any used vehicle you should take it to your technician and have a thorough inspection performed. Also, just driving around the block doesn't provide enough information. To identify problems with the suspension, brakes, steering, engine, etc. the vehicle should be driven a minimum of 10 miles over a variety of driving conditions. An extended drive time allows the driver to become accustomed to the vehicle and any oddities that the vehicle may have. When purchasing a used vehicle, always proceed with caution.

What is Vehicle VIN number

Vehicle VIN Says  I Have the Wrong Car


Q: On a uni-body car where will I find the VIN? When I took my car in for service, I was going to trade it in then I decided to keep it when I picked up the car I found it to be different, as in year, style, etc. If you can help or have any information, please let me know.

A: This is really confusing. Did you drive this vehicle away from the shop? Or are you without a vehicle? The first place you should check for a vehicle identification number (VIN) is right at the driver’s side lower corner of the windshield on a plate with 17 digits. There will be a sticker on the driver’s side door post and depending on the year and make it can be found in a variety of other places. Once you sort this out, I’d really like to hear the rest of the story and I’m sure the readers would too.