How to Fix the Accessory Power Outlet in a Car

How to Fix the Accessory Power Outlet in a Car

Current technology has transformed a car’s accessory outlet from a mere cigarette lighter to a vital piece of the commuting puzzle. Paper maps have gone the way of cassette players with the advance of global positioning satellite navigation units and mapping applications on cellular phones. These 12-volt sources now power devices that provide navigation, traffic updates, weather conditions and emergency communication capabilities making car travel safer and more comfortable.

Determine If the Outlet Is Bad
Try a different accessory with the outlet. If the second accessory does power on, the problem is the original accessory and not the outlet. If both accessories fail to turn on in the outlet, the outlet is probably the culprit. If this is the case, proceed with further troubleshooting steps to determine the root cause of the outlet failure.

Check the Fuse
Accessory power outlets are protected by a fuse in a fuse block. It is there to prevent the outlet from overdrawing power and possibly creating a fire due to a short or misuse. Your owner's manual has a listing of all of the fuses in the car and a diagram highlighting the exact location of the fuse block. Remove the fuse using a fuse puller and inspect the metal line the plastic housing. If it is broken, replace it with a new fuse of the same amperage. The fuse block cover may have spare fuses you can use. Never use a replacement fuse with a higher amperage rating than the one you are replacing.

Check the Wiring
Use a multimeter’s DC volts setting to get an idea of what’s going on with the outlet. With the car ignition in the accessory position, insert the red lead into the outlet and make firm, direct contact with the conductor in the center of the outlet. Use the black lead to contact the side of the outlet without touching the red lead or the center conductor. If the meter reads anything below 12.0 volts or no current at all, find the problem in the wiring. Remove the negative battery cable and check for continuity between the side of the outlet and the outlet’s ground point, the outlet center conductor and any junction point between it and the fuse block, and hot shorts or short to ground. Repair any break in the wiring or shorts.

Replace the Outlet
If the fuse is OK and you didn’t find any breaks or shorts in the wiring, it is safe to suspect the outlet itself. A multimeter can help determine this as well. Unplug the power outlet from the wiring harness so that the outlet is electrically separated from the rest of the car. Jumper the red and black wire in the outlet's electrical connector, then insert the multimeter leads into the outlet as you did to check for voltage, but this time set the multimeter for continuity. Because the wires themselves have already been tested, an open circuit here will verify that the break is inside the outlet itself. If the meter reads no continuity, replace the outlet.

Symptoms of a Bad Brake Booster

Symptoms of a Bad Brake Booster

Because of the prevalence of disc brakes, power-boosted braking systems now come standard on nearly all new automobiles and recent-model used vehicles. Disc brakes are not self-energizing like drum brakes, so they require a power brake booster to keep pedal effort reasonable for all drivers. But like any human-made device, power brake boosters can go bad.


Booster Failure
The primary symptom of power brake booster failure is a high, hard pedal that requires greater than normal pedal pressure to stop the car. You may also notice that it takes a much longer distance than normal to stop your car The high, hard pedal and longer stopping distance mean you are not getting power boost.

Proper Function
A properly functioning power brake system should provide power assist on first application of the brakes every time, with normal pedal travel, pedal pressure and stopping distance. However, if your brake pedal is low, spongy, requires pumping or fails under steady pressure, the brake booster likely is not at fault. These are indications of other serious problems in your braking system that require prompt attention.

Testing Booster
Most power brake systems in autos are vacuum-based, using the difference between engine intake vacuum and atmospheric pressure as their power source. To test your brake booster, pump the brakes several times with the engine off to deplete stored vacuum. Turn on the engine while pressing lightly on the brake pedal. You should feel the pedal fall away a bit and then become firm, but not hard. If you feel nothing at the pedal when the engine starts, your brake booster is not functioning.

Another Test
Booster problems may indicate failure of the booster unit itself or problems in the vacuum system that powers the booster. A vacuum system problem may leave you with only partial boost, according to SouthernRods.com. To test for vacuum problems, start the engine and run it to medium speed, then turn off ignition and take your foot off the gas. Wait about a minute and a half and then apply your brakes. You should feel the vacuum boost on at least two brake applications. If you do not, you may have a vacuum system leak or bad vacuum check valve.

How to Remove a Brake Booster From the Brake Pedal in a Tahoe

How to Remove a Brake Booster From the Brake Pedal in a Tahoe

The Chevrolet Tahoe has been popular among soccer moms and big families for years. Over that time, they've become fairly advanced, including features like electronic throttle control and a tighter turning radius. The brake pedal of the car connects to the brake booster at the top of the pedal assembly, and although it's not a difficult process to remove the linkage, getting to it can be a bit complicated. In this case, the project vehicle is a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe.

Things You'll Need
Flashlight
Flat head screwdriver


Instructions
Open the door and look underneath the dash with the flashlight, following the brake pedal up from the floor to the linkage at the top of the mount. There is a round bar that comes off of the top of the pedal, with a wired switch and the booster linkage bolted to it. Reach an arm up there with the flat head screwdriver to access the metal clip at the end of the bar.

Place the flat head screwdriver between the clip and the pedal, and twist it to open the clip. This clip looks like a clamp, and the end of it covers the bar to keep the linkage in place. By opening the clip, you can then push it up vertically and pull it off of the bar, which will allow you to slide everything else off of the brake pedal.

Slide the brake switch off of the brake pedal. If you have to, you can unplug the wiring from the switch using your hands. Then, place the flat head screwdriver between the brake pedal and the booster linkage and pry it off of the round bar. This may be difficult to do, but the flat head screwdriver should help provide extra leverage.