leaderboard 1

Sunday, 5 July 2015

Trunk light switch camry

Trunk light switch

You can order Trunk light switch here

How to troubleshoot and fix the trunk light Switch On Camry

Use this guide at your own risk! I assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide. Any comments to improve the procedure will be gratefully received.

Time Required
It took me 2 hours from start to finish, including the time to take photos and make notes. If I had to do it again, I think I could cut this down to 1 hour or less.

Tools Required:
Simple hand tools and a multimeter.

Let’s Get Started!

1. Remove clear plastic cover from the trunk light. It is held in place by four snaps. It is a bit tough to pull off. If necessary, use a thin flat screw driver to gently pry it off. Note that the cover is not symmetrical. The snaps on one side are spaced further apart than the other side. You will need to pay attention to this when replacing the cover.

2. Pull the light bulb out of the socket and check for continuity (resistance) across the bulb. FYI. the bulb looks like a fuse and is marked Kioto 12V3W. In my case the bulb was good. 

3. Measure the voltage between one side of the bulb holder (red arrow) and ground. It should read 12V. Mine did. This means that the bulb is getting power from the fuse.

4. Measure the voltage across the bulb holder (ie. Between the red arrow and the green arrow). With the trunk open, it should read 12V. Min read 412mV or about ½ a volt. This means that that either the switch is not working correctly or there is a break in the wire between the bulb and the switch.

5. Remove the “carpet” cover on the inside of the trunk. There are 15 plastic snaps (including on under the emergency trunk release lever) holding it in place. I did not have a special tool to remove them, so I gently pried them out with my side cutters. I could not get my “glow in the dark” emergency trunk release lever off, so I just cut a few slits in the cover to facilitate removal of the cover.

6. Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing down on the latch (red arrow) and pulling on the connector.

7. There are two male pins inside the connector. Check the continuity between right pin (green arrow) and ground. With the trunk open, there should be continuity (ie. a closed connection) between the right pin and ground. On mine, there was no continuity (ie. a open connection), indicating that the contacts in the switch were not closing properly or there was a break in the wiring somewhere. In order to further troubleshoot, it was necessary to remove the entire trunk latch assembly by following the instructions below.

8. Remove the two 10mm bolts (red arrows) securing the latch assembly to the trunk lid.

9. Disconnect the linkage arm from the emergency release handle by rotating the black plastic connector and then dropping the rod.

10. Disconnect the linkage arm from the key release mechanism by rotating the red plastic connector and then dropping the rod.

11. Open the black plastic cover. It is hinged with latches on both sides and slide the plastic cover off of the latch mechanism.

12. In the unlatched state (ie trunk open) as shown above, the contacts (red arrow) are closed. This closes the circuit so that the trunk light turns on. I checked this with my multimeter and there was continuity (ie. Low resistance) between the pin on the connector and ground, indicating that the switch was working correctly.

13. Using a small screwdriver to move the trunk latch to the latched state (ie trunk open), as shown above, the contacts opened. This opens the circuit so that the trunk light turns off. I checked this with my multimeter and the circuit was open, indicating that the switch was working correctly.

14. Upon closer examination, I determined that the copper strip on the switch assembly (red arrow) was not mating correctly with the copper strip on the motor assembly (green arrow). As a result the connection was open the whole time. This ended up being the source of the problem.

15. To correct this problem, I removed the motor assembly (four Philips screws), and reassembled the motor such that the copper connectors were properly mating.

16. After reassembly, I checked with my multimeter. With the assembly “unlatched”, simulating an open trunk, there was continuity (ie. a closed circuit)....

17. ...and with the assembly “latched”, simulating a closed trunk, there was no continuity (ie. an open circuit). Reinstall the latch assembly into the trunk and test before replacing the cover.

18. Voila! We now have light in the trunk. Just to be sure that the light would turn off when the trunk was closed, I simulated a closed trunk by using a small screwdriver to close the latch. It worked fine. Tug on the emergency lever to “unlatch” the assembly and re-install the cover. Install the light bulb and clear plastic cover. Thats it! That is all there is to it!

Friday, 3 July 2015

volvo v70 2002 is showing the warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd'

volvo warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd'

volvo v70 2002 is showing the warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd', also the driver side front wheel makes a screeching sound not unlike worn down pads on discs when making a right or left
The vehicle has done 170k miles and I replaced the water pump and belts in March 2011. However, I did not refit the plastic inner wing till Nov of 2011. Could this have anything to do with noises and warnings I am now receiving. I guess I am keen to know if the problems are wheel speed sensors or ABS/ECU issues.

Get that car Jacked up and pull the wheel and do a very close inspection. It could be any thing from a rock in the Caliper, to loose wheel bearings to bad brake pads to a bad CV Joint.Inspect for where there is any fresh wear or grind marks on your suspension to check for integrity. Also if you have run over a piece of wire it could be wrapped up int he CV axle.

Inspect the brakes/suspension first. If pads and suspension are ok then have the ABS system scanned for faults. You have either a bad wheel speed sensor activating the ABS or a bad ABS module. Volvo has lots of issues with this. The ABS/Tracs control module has solder joints that go bad in the control module 99% of the time it is the issue. Have the module repaired/replaced.

any noise coming from the front wheel while turning leaves me thinking front constant velocity joint if the car is front wheel drive. With the abs light on I would take down the front driver side wheel and check the brakes for wear along with the front wheel bearing assembly for play or loosness, Check for the sensors to make sure they havent came off and are rubbing your rotors as you make your turn. It can be a number of things. Usually when its the front constant velocity joint it makes a popping noise as if something is binding. As for the front wheel bearing assembly it could make noises usually after the car has been ran down the road and heated up the bearing then it will sing to you. But as you mentioned about the noise only during turning I would lean towards constant velocity joint or sensor hanging and rubbing the rotor, Its only one way to find out. Hope this helps.

Sputters and shakes when accellerating

Sputters and shakes when accellerating

2001 volvo v70. The car shakes and sputters when accelerating from 0 to 35 mph. Also the abs light and check engine light flashes really fast. There was also a slight metallic/rubber smell.

You have an engine misfire....unless you have expertise in this area you need to see your local shop as you will damage your catalytic converter if you continue to drive. 

Check the Coil Pack Rubber insulator boots. If you have one that is torn that will cause your problem. The Boots are only $8.50 each through IPD.

Sputtering is more than likely a bad ignition coil. If the MIL (check engine light) is flashing it indicates possible damage to the cat converter. LOTS of coil problems on these cars-Replace them all unless you want to keep bringing it back for the next year. ABS is probably a module. Volvo has lots of issues with this. The ABS/Tracs control module has solder joints that go bad in the control module 99% of the time it is the issue. Have the module repaired/replaced.

Key won't come out of ingnition

Key won't come out of ingnition

1999 Volvo V70

Key wont release from the ignition when the car is off. It is in park. Abs and service light is on. At this point the vehicle starts and drives so Im not sure what I should do.

I had the same problem and found that if I made sure the button on the shift lever is out all the way the key would come out. Mine was sticking and had to be pulled out, the spring had become weak on the shift knob.

Sound like 2 issues. Ignition key maybe that the cable to the shifter is out of adjustment. If the cable is out of adjustment/broken the key will not come out. ABS is probably a module. Volvo has lots of issues with this. The ABS/Tracs control module has solder joints that go bad in the control module 99% of the time it is the issue. Have the module repaired/replaced.

Jiggle the steering wheel while trying to remove the key.

Some cars, you have to push in and turn to a full off position before you can remove the key.

Where is the transmission code located on the car?

2004 Volkswagen New Beetle 

Where is the transmission code located on the car?

The code letters on an automatic transaxle are on a metal plate near where the transaxle butts up against the engine. The stamped transaxle type is in the metal of the housing, away from the engine and closer to the front wheel. Both the code letters and tight become visible by your raising the vehicle up onto jack stands and viewing from underneath.

ABS light stays on

ABS light stays on

This solution is for every car owner with an ABS problem (e.g. Brake System Warning Light).
Does the...
1)ABS warning light comes on occasionally while driving, warning light turns off next time you start the car, eventually the light comes back on if you drive long enough
2)ABS light comes on seconds or minutes after starting or even moving your car
3)ABS sensors have been replaced, ABS controller has been replaced, and ... the problem returns, sometimes soon, sometimes later
4)ABS warning light refuses to act up in front of your mechanic
5)ABS mechanic has no idea what is wrong
6)ABS brake have no leaks to be found, the brake fluid levels are normal and the brake pads pass inspection but the light comes on

My solution will not solve all ABS system warning light problems, but it may solve very many and save many dollars.
This solution just isn't Standard Operating Procedure in our day to day service repair shops as it is time consuming fault elimination. Why is it overlooked, who knows? It should also, in my experienced opinion, be the absolute first thing checked, by the book, before any sensor, control module, brake fluid, brake bleeding, whatever your mechanic suggest... the list goes on for some car owners. The point is, if this isn't checked first, all bets are off for the DIY or even the certified mechanic.

To get my point across to every car owner and MECHANIC will require GREAT effort on my part otherwise this information will be ignored. Now, back to my point, unless this check is made before any car "computer" throws an error code is taken into account, then that error code can be misleading. No ABS red warning light on the dash of all cars or trucks everywhere can truly be CERTIFIED in testing if this process isn't first completed. The odd exception might be the ABS control unit was on fire, you drove the brakes down to metal or some other freak accident. Here's where I say, "for just $9.95, you, can buy this instruction book". Nope this is FREE and will save many people from having nightmares considering the millions of car owners.

Have you ever heard, "A chain is only as strong as its weakest link"? Well, in the real world, ABS errors are almost always misdiagnosed in first repair attempts. The very first thing that should be performed is a visual inspection inside the engine compartment and brake area. Unless there is an obvious loose wiring harness plug, a lost kitten, distorted/bent brake lines, worn out rotors or brake pads, or something else screaming for your attention; then close the hood and step away from the vehicle and put down that silly diagnostic computer. So, now that the hood is closed, we are going to jack up the car and take off a wheel. Once a wheel is off, we need to disconnect the brake caliper and hang it to the side out of the way. Yes, this is usually a painful, very greasy and dirty process; front wheel and four wheel systems are even more fun. Start with the front wheels and work your way around. Now, and only now is it possible to check each Wheel Bearing Torque value. However, just checking the torque with a push and pull of the rotor disk isn't always sufficient. The hub axle bearings and bearing seats need to be inspected, bearings repacked and then precisely torqued. And when I say precisely, in some rare cases that can mean putting all the parts back together, driving the vehicle, tearing the wheel back down and checking the torque settings again. In some cases; hub, axle and wheel bearing assembly just can't maintain this torque value and still rotate properly because just one of the 3 parts may have some flaw, and this leads to rotor movement. It is also very easy for an experienced mechanic to get it wrong. So, it is good to do it right the first time but that also does not mean it always can be done correctly the first time. As good as any mechanic or auto production line worker may be during assembly of these components, all of these bearing components will never "seat" the exact same or show identical performance. They just try to do their best with what they have.

Basically, the ABS electronics are not the weakest link in most cases. If you have proven beyond doubt that the axle bearings are as close to 100% of factory torque settings and the bearings are healthy and lubed, then the weakest link has been removed. Only then should an ABS error code be used to diagnose a possible electronic component failure. All that this axle bearing nonsense means to those still wondering is that the ABS sensor ring will no longer be deflecting off axis as it spins or sits inside the rotor hub. If the hub/ABS sensor ring tilt off axis just a fraction of an inch on some vehicles, the gap between the sensor and ring is affected, and this will trip the ABS warning light. These ABS systems were designed to operate within a specific set of tolerances and unfortunately the bearings in your axles will not always cooperate. A pot hole here, a curb there, too much hard cornering and braking; sometimes that is all it takes to just slightly loosen an axle bearing and have virtually no noticeable effect.

99% probability it is a bad ABS module.  Extremely common on these Volvo's.  Speed sensor would probably show up on your generic scan gauge, ABS module would not likely show anything.  You can get your module rebuilt by sending it in to a number of places.  Do a google search for Volvo ABS Rebuild.  Victor Rocha is a reputable source for this.

ABS problem is mostly on the sensor, check all the sensors for damage, if its all ok check your abs control module check the wiring and the terminals. spray some wd-40 on it then let it dry for a couple of minutes. the return ,if same problem occurs maybe your abs module is not working well.

Wheel sensors are most common to go bad. they are easy to check. Just unplug jack the car up and have someone spin the wheel, use a oms meter to check miliamps. You see these wheel sensors are like Minnie generators, they send a signal to the module which tells that the wheel is turning. Make sure the tone rings are clean, a leaky wheel seal will cause a dirty sensor. Good luck. If you check these and they are good then go to the module.

 I have fixed many others on domestic vehicles that were absolutely plugged up with grease/ oil and lets nit forget that they are magnified....meaning the sensors collect tiny bits of metal particles from grinding pads into nothing but metal to metal, hence the sensor " groves" become plugged up.

I don't prefer the WD40 concept but love using starting fluid which is an alcohol based cleaner that evaporates quickly. Also use air pressure to then blow anything sticking to the sensor off till it's as clean as new.

It is true that bad wheel bearings can cause these pesky problems, but You'll hear the Howling of the bearing or by shaking it briskly if it's loose.

Just remember to start w/ the simplest approach first.

Make sure the scanner you are using is capable of scanning ABS codes on your particular vehicle. I can't tell you how many times I had to rescan a vehicle using my scanner and found an ABS code.

Turn the steering wheel on the F150 all the way to the right. Look at the brake system on the front driver's side of the vehicle. With the wheels turned all the way to the right, you should be able to easily see the ABS sensor mounted to the wheel bearing assembly. There are two wires coming out of the sensor. The sensor is a small black box secured to the wheel bearing and hub assembly. It monitors the rotation of the rotor and wheel, checking to see if there is ever a stop or break in rotation while the vehicle is moving and the brakes are being applied. If the wires are broken or damaged in any way, your ABS is failing and needs to be serviced by a brake shop. If the wires look fine, repeat this step for each wheel. To check the passenger side wheel, you may need to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. To check the rear wheels, you'll need to climb under the rear cab.
Turn the ignition off if all of the ABS wires appear to be normal and in-tact at the wheel hub. Wait 30 seconds and turn the ignition back on to the "II" position. If the ABS light remains on, the ABS is malfunctioning. You may have a bad sensor at one of the wheels. You'll need to have this component serviced by a professional brake shop.

2005 gmc canyon just started blowing smoke out tail pipe

2005 gmc canyon just started blowing smoke out tail pipe but it doesn't do it every time i start it. is this bad

It just started its only happened twice blowing smoke out the tail pipe, its not getting hot or using oil or missing just when i started it it had smoke coming from tail pipe.

Possibly a leak in the head gasket. Take out the plugs and see if they are water wet. Run a compression check.

Over heating white smoke out tail pipe

Over heating white smoke out tail pipe when car first starts

 Not leaking any coolent but overheat reg also no heat in car blows white smoke when you frist start.

Ok it could be a couple things check and/or change the thermostat if that doesnt work then try to replace the heater core

2000 Mazda 626 blows light white smoke

2000 Mazda 626 blows light white smoke after reaching 50mph

I have 2000 Mazda 626 that has been sitting for a few months.. The car runs and starts good no lights on panel on.. The battery has been disconnect since it hasn't been in use.. from time to time i start it and move it.. all fluids are full no leaks. Belts have been changed fluids as well. I have noticed once the car reaches 50mph the car will begin to blow light white smoke from tail pipe.. It stops blowing smoke when the car is idling. No other problems so far. I was told it could be Throttle Body need to cleaned.. but when I think of smoke coming out it leads to head gasket... Mechanic said it needed to be reprogrammed.. Unsure what that has to do with the smoke..

Basically it needs tuning and / or cleaning, you can a try an Internal Engine Cleaner Crc Motor Treatment 16 6.55 eBay. and see if that helps, i understand your worries about the headgasket of water problems, the best way to tell is to take your oil cover off the engine and look for a white substance (mayonaise) if its black or brown its just oil and all is good, but if it is creamy white or going that way then oil has mixed with water and you may have a problem, but with it been white smoke (not to mistaken with steam) then it's prob just a tuning issue.

mazda 626 runs great but will not stop burning oil and white smoke keeps coming out of the exuast pipe

1991 mazda 626 runs great but will not stop burning oil and white smoke keeps coming out of the exuast pipe

It sounds like two different problems. White smoke is indicative of water in the fuel. If it was oil burning the smoke would be blue.

The oil may be leaking out. Is there evidence of oil leakage on the road when you park? Check the engine for for oil leaks. 

There are additives available at auto parts stores that deal with water in the fuel supply. 

Did you check you cooling? The white smoke is from water, but I do not think that much water is in the fuel line.
If you lost cooling water then your head gasket is leaking, water goes into the cylinder(s).

black smoke from exuast

Lexus es300 1999 model is bring out black smoke from exuast and I have change brain box, air filometer, but it did not stop

Have you checked fault codes? There are so many things that could be causing it, checking and repairing any codes would be a start.

code p0306 cause codes p1135 an p1155 to come on on a 1999 lexus es300

Code p0306 cause codes p1135 an p1155 to come on a 1999 lexus es300

the fault code [generic-po306] is a cylinder 6 misfire,and can throw up manufacture specific p1135 and p1155. get a local garage to remove the number 6 plug from your lexus,and view the electrode end to see if it is 'oiled up'as you could have an internal engine problem,however it is rare to just have 1 cylinder with a specific problem,and will most commonly be the coil,you would be better off to replace all the 6 spark plug's and the 1 coil for that defective cylinder, 

Code p1135 what wrong help,toyota 2000,highlander

Code p1135 what wrong help,toyota 2000,highlander

2000 toyota highlander 6 cylinder,code p1135

That code is specific to the Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1135 Trouble Area:
Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
A/F sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) heater

Getting code p1135 and p1155 on toyota rav4 2002

Getting code p1135 and p1155 on toyota rav4 2002

Here's what the codes mean:
P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1155 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2

This is mainly related to the oxygen sensors. It maybe the sensors themselves or an open wire going to te sensors. They are mainly located on the exhaust pipe. One before and on after the catalytic converter.

Try the bottom two my bottom 2 went as well.

The sensors on top are referred to as air/fuel sensors or "wide band" sensors. The sensors on the bottom (after the cat) are O2 sensors. Bank 1 is the pipe that comes from cylinder #1 and bank 2 is the pipe that incorporates cylinder #2.

How to find timing belts marks toyota rav4 2l

How to find timing belts marks toyota rav4 2l

Can not find proper timing marks to set timing belt on toyota rav4 2 liter.

I have just replaced my water pump on my 1998 RAVE4, also, the timing belt and the other two belts. I had a tough time with the timing marks. The way you line these marks up is easy if you take the time, First, if you are changing the timing belt you pull the balancer and both top and bottom plastic covers,(do not try to pull top cover off before you take off balencer and the motor mount off or you will just break it.), Second after covers are removed you will have access to the timing belt, you can now remove it by loosening the tensioner bolt and pushing down on the tensioner wheel, the belt then can be taken off. Third take out number one sparkplug and replace the bottom cover by maybe two bolts so that you can see marks on cover, next replace the balancer and bolt. Turn the motor over by hand with the balancer so the small divit on the back of the balancer is on 0 or top dead center on the compression stroke, you can use a compression gauge for this or I just used a mirror and light to shine in the number one cylinder to see the piston. Next remove the balancer and cover and make sure to make a mark on crankshaft gear and housing. Next you will need mirror and flashlight, now turn camshaft gear clockwise to line the hole in the gear with the top timing mark. I recommend a small circle mirror for this. Now replace the belt. I turned the crank shaft gear one tooth counter clockwise off mark and the camshaft one tooth clock wise off mark so when the belt is on you can turn the camshaft gear counter clockwise to get tension on the belt and marks will line up. I would recommend changing water pump,tensioner wheel, and the idler wheel. After belt is on I would replace the bottom cover the balancer and the crankshaft sensor. Iwould then start it to make sure the water pump is not leaking and the motor is not pinging or you will have to tear it back apart again.

There is a hole in the cam gear that if you look through it with a mirror and light you should see a small notch in the cam cap. on the crank gear there is a small divot between the teeth just to the left of the keyway notch that should align with a small dimple on the oil pump cover.

2003 toyota rav 4 dash lights blink till u turn on headlights

2003 toyota rav 4 dash lights blink till u turn on headlights

Dash board lights flash when you start and stay on for three minutes or to you turn on head lights.

It seems your car has got round problem,check all and repair where necessary

Blinking light on dash board

Blinking light on dash board

I have a arrow blinking on my dash board. It does'nt blink all the time but when it does, the car seem to start out in 4th or 5th gear. I have a 1999 volvo s70

It may be possible that your Park Neutral Position Switch (PNP Switch) is getting ready to fail. The switch is located right on top of your transmission and is connected to your shifter. This is a common problem. I doubt that your entire transmission is failing, because that is rare with the S70 line. Has your check engine light come on? The check engine light can be triggered by the failing PNP switch. You should take the car to a autozone if you do not have a code reader to see if this problem is sending a code to the computer. If you are unsure where the port is for the code reader, it is located inside of the center console armrest and has OBD II on it. It will same something such as Transmission position switch failure....if I can remember correctly when it happened to me. If it displays this message, then it is definitely the PNP switch failing. If the PNP is failing be careful. Mine failed failed when I pulled into a parking space and as soon as I put the car in park, the check engine light came on my and the red arrow started flashing. I thought something had gotten wet and I decided to turn the car off for a reset, however, it would not let me start the car, because it thought the car was in some other gear besides park or neutral. So you should have it fixed ASAP. If you order the parts online, it can be a cheap fix. fcpgroton.com has this switch for a cheap price with great quality. How many miles do you have on your S70? My switch failed at 110,500.

Are there any other lights on? It is common for the ABS module to fail on these cars. Other inputs are routed through the module. It will cause chk eng light, intermittent ABS light, and sometimes the blinking amber arrow. The upshift arrow would indicate that the transmission is in limp home mode. These lights are all most likely tied to the ABS module. These modules have soldering points on the internal circuit board that crack, causing the problems. There is a guy in California that repairs them--Vic Rocha, if that is your problem. He can be googled.

2001 Volvo V40 arrow warning light

2001 Volvo V40 arrow warning light

Turning on car, shifted hard into drive, then drove fine. However, the arrow auto transmission indicator on the dash is flashing.

Most likely the transmission range switch is failing. 
Have someone check the transmission computer for codes.

What does the arrow flashing on a s90 volvo dash board

Arrow flashing on a s90 volvo dash board

Engine/transmission fault. You can disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to clear the computer if it returns you have a problem.

Chevrolet: Just had my blower resistor go on my 2007 Silverado

Just had my blower resistor go on my 2007 Silverado (5th time). I wonder if the abs system is on the same circuit, local shop says the front hubs have play and the abs sensors don't work well.

Click the link below for solutions:

97 Chevy Suburban: 4wd..idling..the brake pedal, the engine..rough

97 Chevy Suburban: 4wd..idling..the brake pedal, the engine..rough

My parents have a 97 Chevy Suburban 4wd. The brakes are hard to push down on and require more pressure to stop the vehicle. Also, while idling and pressing the brake pedal, the engine runs very rough. I'm thinking that it is a vacuum leak of some sort. Could it be? Are there any simple test that I can do to narrow down the problem? Is there a check valve or some other thing that is common for a Suburban that can be replaced simply? Or could it be the master cylinder? Any help would be great. Thanks.

Check the link below for Answer:


the brake pedal, the engine..rough

the brake pedal, the engine..rough

Vacuum Booster



See Figure 1
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Apply the parking brake.
  3. Unplug all necessary electrical connections.
  4. Remove the master cylinder from the booster and pull it off the studs, CAREFULLY! It is not necessary to disconnect the brake lines.
  5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the check valve.
  6. If necessary, remove the brake light switch.
  7. Disconnect the booster pushrod at the brake pedal.
  8. Remove the booster mounting nuts, located on the inside of the firewall.

Click image to see an enlarged view 
Fig. Fig. 1: Vacuum booster mounting
  1. Lift off the booster and remove the gasket.

To install:
  1. Install the booster with a new gasket.
  2. Tighten the booster mounting nuts to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) on all except 1996-98 models. On 1996-98 models, tighten the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (36 Nm).
  3. Install all remaining components.

Brake Power Booster

Showing 1 - 2 of 2 Items
Sort by Price: High High Low Low --- Select a Brand --- Cardone Reman Cardone Reman / Brake Power Booster Part Number:
54-71085   Price: $125.99
Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $28.00
Total: $153.99 Application:
With JB5, JB6 and JB7 brake system
LLT Notes: W/o master cylinder
STORE PICK UP IN STOCK SHIP TO HOME AVAILABLE  Cardone Reman / Brake Power Booster Part Number:
52-7358   Price: $176.99
Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $46.00
Total: $222.99 Application:
With JB8 brake system