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Tuesday 5 February 2013

My Auto Repair Mechanic Is Cheating On Me

HOW CAN TRUST MY CAR REPAIR MECHANIC


CAR MECHANIC COMPLAINT BOX



Q: Having trouble with a mechanic who had worked on my auto. I am seeking organizations or some place that keeps files on bad mechanics. He operates out of three businesses that are cash only operations. Also, the mechanic had made additional repairs without my knowledge and charged me extra! I to had paid the mechanic, but instead of getting a receipt I got a deposit slip. I am being taken advantage of! I do not know where to turn to? Please Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



A: Very Sad to here that.I dont know why these helpers forget there aim " Honesty is the Best Policy".
We all are public helpers and for the public.
I know why he only took cash! He hadn’t had time to get a checking account for his three businesses. No wait! To open a checking account for a business the company name has to be registered with the state before the bank will allow the account to be opened. Oh, he had three businesses, it takes a lot of time register those businesses. But you just wait, once the businesses are registered you can go to the better business bureau and file a complaint. I’m curious to just what led you to take your vehicle to a cash for repairs mechanic? Was it the low labor rate or bring your own parts? I mean something had to draw you in? If I called a contractor to work on my house and found that he only expects cash under three possible business names I wouldn’t let him on the property and you let a guy like this work on your car? Oh, I’m sure this cash only “dude” had plenty of insurance too. Look, for a reputable business to open, the owner has to lay a lot out on the line. But there’s more to it than just money. A real business is held to a higher level of accountability. This accountability is enforced by state laws and regulations to aid and protect the consumer. When you do business with people like “the dude” you’re on your own. Yes it is likely you were taken advantage of. It is unlikely you have any reasonable recourse. Where do you turn now? The right direction is away from “the dude’s” shop to a real repair facility. Education comes in many forms. This is one of those life lessons, be sure to learn by it.

Fact About Tornado/Cyclone Fuel Savers

Are These Tornado/Cyclone Real Fuel Savers OR Not?



Q: It shows ads on TV regarding saving fuel and I think it's too good to be true. So, do the Tornado fuel savers really work and save you money? Please Guide me regarding these before i go for these product?


A: Here are my thoughts on these marvels of technology that have eluded engineers from all of the car and truck manufacturers. Just imagine a miracle product that would increase horsepower and gas mileage! After all, if you got better gas mileage it would mean you also reduced emissions! The world’s dependency on oil would be washed away! Along with this special you would get the cap snaffle.  It snaffles caps off of any size jug or bottle and it really really works! But wait there’s more!!! If it is surely a marvel of technology and it really really works the inventor would be rich and living on an island not pushing their wares in infomercials. As for the cap snaffle, it really does work, I have one.

Automatic Transmission Shifter Will Not Lock

Transmission Shifter Lock Issues



Unlockable Automatic Transmission Shifter Lock


Q: The shifter would not unlock out of park on my car. After following the procedure in the Owner's Manual, we were able to get it to release. What do you think the problem is?
And Whats the Approx Repair cost for such problems?



A: Your Problem description is not clear regarding your car model.Knowing the year, make and model of your vehicle would make things a little easier to answer your question.

But still that doesn't matter too much.
I will try my best to answer your query.

Here are the details ....................

The shift-inter lock systems are found on most all makes of vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions. The reason for the shift-inter lock system is to assure that the driver of the vehicle has their foot on the brake pedal, not the gas, when moving the transmission selector from park to drive or reverse. The operating system of the shift-inter lock is reasonably generic across the line of manufacturers. There will be fuses, a brake pedal position switch (many times it is the brake light switch) a possible relay/module and last a solenoid/actuator. When the ignition is turned on electrical power goes to and activates the solenoid/actuator. The solenoid will pull a pawl/lock into place that blocks the movement of the shifter. When you step on the brake pedal another electrical signal is sent to the relay/module and it responds by canceling the other signal, which causes the shift-inter lock solenoid to release, allowing the shifter to be moved. The most common problem we see in the shop are failed fuses or worn shift-inter lock solenoids. The inside of the solenoid will wear and bind internally and will not release once activated. The fuses you can check yourself. Leave diagnosing the rest of the system to a qualified technician.

Should I Buy These Used Car

Before Buying Used Car


Beware of buying used cars



Q: Hey there, looking to purchase a used car and the owner states the only problem is with the fan. He says the car overheats quickly and there may be something wrong with something called a "Gasket". Obviously I don't know what the heck any of these items are since I'm only a driver and not knowledgeable or interested in them at all. Please respond with your answer and possible solution(s). I'd also like to know on average what I should expect to pay for either of these repairs to be done.

A: Stay away! In no way would I recommend purchasing that vehicle! The problems you described are big dollars that could easily double the cost of the vehicle. Before purchasing any used vehicle you should take it to your technician and have a thorough inspection performed. Also, just driving around the block doesn't provide enough information. To identify problems with the suspension, brakes, steering, engine, etc. the vehicle should be driven a minimum of 10 miles over a variety of driving conditions. An extended drive time allows the driver to become accustomed to the vehicle and any oddities that the vehicle may have. When purchasing a used vehicle, always proceed with caution.

What is Vehicle VIN number


Vehicle VIN Says  I Have the Wrong Car


HOW EXACTLY VEHICLE VIN NUMBER DECIDES WHICH CAR I OWN?



Q: On a uni-body car where will I find the VIN? When I took my car in for service, I was going to trade it in then I decided to keep it when I picked up the car I found it to be different, as in year, style, etc. If you can help or have any information, please let me know.


A: This is really confusing. Did you drive this vehicle away from the shop? Or are you without a vehicle? The first place you should check for a vehicle identification number (VIN) is right at the driver’s side lower corner of the windshield on a plate with 17 digits. There will be a sticker on the driver’s side door post and depending on the year and make it can be found in a variety of other places. Once you sort this out, I’d really like to hear the rest of the story and I’m sure the readers would too.

Water Pump and Timing Belt Issues

Leaking Water Pump


Q: I just took my car to Pep Boys and they just found a leak in my water pump. I don't really think that it just happened because I just had it in the shop about two weeks ago. But they told me that to replace the water pump, that I "HAVE" to replace the timing belt and all this other stuff with new parts. I want to know if that is true. Also what can I do until I gather enough money to repair the car?



A:On old model vehicles it was said that if the timing belt needs to be replaced then water pump also has to be replaced and viceversa.

What can you do until you gather enough money? Avoid driving the vehicle. Overheating an engine is a sure fire way to empty the check book. You did not mention what type of vehicle you own so it is not easy to tell you what you can and cannot get away with. It is not uncommon on today's vehicles for the water pump to be driven by the timing belt. To service the water pump on a vehicle with this type of configuration requires removing the timing belt.As per our garage repair experience i will say. You do not have to replace the timing belt when this work is being done. But all you're saving is the cost of the timing belt. All the labor money is tied up in replacing the water pump. There are also some oil seals that are ideally serviced while the timing belt is off as well. Many manufacturers have recommended timing belt service intervals between 60k and 90k. If your timing belt has that kind of mileage on it do yourself a favor and have it replaced while the water pump is being serviced. If the timing belt has low mileage, then don't replace it if monies are tight. The bottom line? You call the shots, it's your car and your money. If all you want is a water pump, and understand fully the possible additional costs you may face later by not performing the suggested repairs, just do the water pump.

Water Pump Squeals on Acceleration

Water Pump Failure Issues



Water Pump Squealing very loudly



Q: Actually replaced the water pump on my car twice in the last week, and it is failing again.
But why it is failing again n again?
There is a horrible squealing noise upon acceleration. My question is, is the noise coming from the water pump? (Plenty of water, new hoses, belts not slipping.) The new pump has not started to leak out of the weep-hole ..yet. Maybe I just bought a bad pump the first time, but surely not twice (its brand-new, not a rebuilt). The old owner put stop leak in the radiator. maybe, the pump is not getting good flow? However, the car does not overheat. Would a water pump, not getting good flow, make such a sound? The bearings are supposed to be sealed anyway, right? Would running straight water through the pump without antifreeze cause the pump to squeal and fail?.... Joe

A: I'm not convinced that you have a water pump problem. The possibility of three water pumps causing a belt squeal, is far too difficult to accept. There is something else that you're not picking up on. I would suggest a closer inspection of all the fan belts. If your vehicle is equipped with the flat serpentine type fan belt the tension settings are critical to proper belt performance. Many vehicles with serpentine type fan belts also have an automatic belt tensioner. A weak or failing belt tensioner will cause the fan belt to slip and squeal under acceleration. Stop focusing on the water pump and look at the whole picture, the answer to your problem is right in front of you.