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Wednesday, 16 September 2015

Connected Cars Offer Something For Everyone to Like

Connected Cars Offer Something For Everyone to Like



And Worry About.

The smart money is betting that sales of smart cars will explode, but concerns about privacy, cybersecurity, average sticker price and embedded vs. smart phone connectivity are also growing as connected cars move from the realm of science fiction to everyday fact.

Although most drivers can't afford the $55,000 average cost of today's connected car, many analysts believe prices will fall significantly in the next few years. As a result, Gartner predicts that 250 million connected cars will be rolling on the world's roads by 2020, while a BI Intelligence report forecasts that 75 percent of the 92 million cars shipped globally in 2020 will be built with internet connection hardware.

IHS Automotive predicted that in 2015 nearly twenty percent of all cars sold globally will include some connectivity.

Despite the higher price, consumers are already sold on the benefits of cars with in-vehicle technology. Thirty-nine percent of car buyers say such technology is a top selling point, according to a study by Accenture. This is more than twice the number (14 percent) who say "traditional" performance measures such as power and speed are their top priority.

For now, the technology connecting smart cars to the Internet (and often Wi-Fi) is split between systems embedded by the auto manufacturers and those driven by devices such as smart phones. Most analysts believe embedded connectivity will eventually dominate, especially as prices decline, because it will let automakers and insurers collect key performance, safety and driving data. In the short term, however, many consumers will probably rely on smartphones to access features and functions that include infotainment, remote door unlocking, navigation systems, weather and traffic alerts and problem-diagnosis tools.

Despite widespread optimism about the enhanced safety and convenience promised by connected cars, the federal government and some consumer groups worry that the vast amounts of data collected and transmitted between various parties could threaten individual privacy and even safety.

Recently, members of the House Energy and Commerce Committee issued letters to 17 carmakers and the National Highway Transportation and Safety Administration requesting details of the cybersecurity measures they plan to take to prevent hackers from accessing smart cars' safety and communications systems. In addition to fears that hackers could collect personal information stored in the cars, some people worry that criminals could actually wrest control of smart cars, disabling critical systems such as brakes and steering.

Although these fears might sound like something invented by a Hollywood screenwriter, researchers affiliated with the Center for Automotive Embedded Systems demonstrated in 2010 that it's possible to take over all of a car's vital systems. In 2011, the same researchers showed how to remotely take control of a vehicle through its telematics systems. Just this past Friday, Fiat Chrysler announced it will recall 1.4 million cars and trucks to protect them from hacking after Wired magazine did a piece on how hackers could remotely hijack a Jeep over the internet.

In response to concerns about the unregulated collection and sharing of sensitive personal data by legitimate companies, Triple A has proposed a sort of Bill of Consumer Rights to the Federal Transportation Commission. They proposed that consumers receive the right to know what information is collected and how it's used, the right to decide whether to share certain data, and the right to expect that their vehicles' data systems are protected against unauthorized access.

This is definitely a topic that will see quite of bit of action and we should all stay tuned in.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ernest_B_Bray



Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/9162964

The Fine Prints of Vehicle Leasing Contract Rules Zoomed

The Fine Prints of Vehicle Leasing Contract Rules Zoomed



Vehicle leasing has been a popular drive among the masses since the last two decades. An infinite count of up-and-coming business enterprisers prefer to hold vehicles on lease as opposed to purchasing. While that is a justified shift in the trend, interested lessees are still requested to stop to buckle themselves up with the required knowledge before taking the leap.

A Foreword

Though terms vary minutely from one dealer to another, and that beyond a shadow of doubt should not be belittled, they more or else have the same sense. The terms are mostly divided into four different heads, namely, the down payment, monthly installments, mileage restrictions and car maintenance. There is also a slot dedicated to contingencies and the fine prints there should not be flipped over.

The Upfront Deposit

This sum is decided on the current net worth of the chosen vehicle. The upfront cost of the lease is a cumulative figure of the monthly installments of the subsequent months. It is recommended that you haggle with your dealer, if it so requires to bring it down to as low as possible. Since it's a leasing deal for you, it is preferable that you do not have to cough out a lump sum and lurch all the way through the rest of the year. Regardless, this is a one-time payment and is adjusted with the premiums of the ending months of the contract.

The Recurrent Cost

In the United Kingdom, the vehicular leasing contracts very between 1, 2, 3 and 4 year. The premium calculation needs the duration to be broken down to months for which you are keeping the vehicle. The market worth of the vehicle is divided by the number of months the contract spans over. To that VAT and depreciation costs estimated over the specified time period are added. The final cost is what you pay in installments over the months. The payment has to be made within a given date every month to continue the contract.

Miles Per Contract

All contracts are mile-bound and there can be no exception. At the time of the contract, the number of miles is set in the paper. You can use your mileage distributing it throughout the years of use, or can do so in a month or anything that suits you. The dealers only keep a tab of the number and nothing more.

Asset Servicing:

You can sign up for a maintenance package with the dealer so that the vehicle is serviced timely during your term of use. However, this package does not cover for the accidental damages.



Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/9167128

Sunday, 5 July 2015

Trunk light switch camry

Trunk light switch

You can order Trunk light switch here


How to troubleshoot and fix the trunk light Switch On Camry

Disclaimer 
Use this guide at your own risk! I assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide. Any comments to improve the procedure will be gratefully received.

Time Required
It took me 2 hours from start to finish, including the time to take photos and make notes. If I had to do it again, I think I could cut this down to 1 hour or less.

Tools Required:
Simple hand tools and a multimeter.



Let’s Get Started!


1. Remove clear plastic cover from the trunk light. It is held in place by four snaps. It is a bit tough to pull off. If necessary, use a thin flat screw driver to gently pry it off. Note that the cover is not symmetrical. The snaps on one side are spaced further apart than the other side. You will need to pay attention to this when replacing the cover.


2. Pull the light bulb out of the socket and check for continuity (resistance) across the bulb. FYI. the bulb looks like a fuse and is marked Kioto 12V3W. In my case the bulb was good. 


3. Measure the voltage between one side of the bulb holder (red arrow) and ground. It should read 12V. Mine did. This means that the bulb is getting power from the fuse.


4. Measure the voltage across the bulb holder (ie. Between the red arrow and the green arrow). With the trunk open, it should read 12V. Min read 412mV or about ½ a volt. This means that that either the switch is not working correctly or there is a break in the wire between the bulb and the switch.





5. Remove the “carpet” cover on the inside of the trunk. There are 15 plastic snaps (including on under the emergency trunk release lever) holding it in place. I did not have a special tool to remove them, so I gently pried them out with my side cutters. I could not get my “glow in the dark” emergency trunk release lever off, so I just cut a few slits in the cover to facilitate removal of the cover.



6. Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing down on the latch (red arrow) and pulling on the connector.


7. There are two male pins inside the connector. Check the continuity between right pin (green arrow) and ground. With the trunk open, there should be continuity (ie. a closed connection) between the right pin and ground. On mine, there was no continuity (ie. a open connection), indicating that the contacts in the switch were not closing properly or there was a break in the wiring somewhere. In order to further troubleshoot, it was necessary to remove the entire trunk latch assembly by following the instructions below.


8. Remove the two 10mm bolts (red arrows) securing the latch assembly to the trunk lid.







9. Disconnect the linkage arm from the emergency release handle by rotating the black plastic connector and then dropping the rod.









10. Disconnect the linkage arm from the key release mechanism by rotating the red plastic connector and then dropping the rod.









11. Open the black plastic cover. It is hinged with latches on both sides and slide the plastic cover off of the latch mechanism.





12. In the unlatched state (ie trunk open) as shown above, the contacts (red arrow) are closed. This closes the circuit so that the trunk light turns on. I checked this with my multimeter and there was continuity (ie. Low resistance) between the pin on the connector and ground, indicating that the switch was working correctly.





13. Using a small screwdriver to move the trunk latch to the latched state (ie trunk open), as shown above, the contacts opened. This opens the circuit so that the trunk light turns off. I checked this with my multimeter and the circuit was open, indicating that the switch was working correctly.





14. Upon closer examination, I determined that the copper strip on the switch assembly (red arrow) was not mating correctly with the copper strip on the motor assembly (green arrow). As a result the connection was open the whole time. This ended up being the source of the problem.



15. To correct this problem, I removed the motor assembly (four Philips screws), and reassembled the motor such that the copper connectors were properly mating.





16. After reassembly, I checked with my multimeter. With the assembly “unlatched”, simulating an open trunk, there was continuity (ie. a closed circuit)....





17. ...and with the assembly “latched”, simulating a closed trunk, there was no continuity (ie. an open circuit). Reinstall the latch assembly into the trunk and test before replacing the cover.






18. Voila! We now have light in the trunk. Just to be sure that the light would turn off when the trunk was closed, I simulated a closed trunk by using a small screwdriver to close the latch. It worked fine. Tug on the emergency lever to “unlatch” the assembly and re-install the cover. Install the light bulb and clear plastic cover. Thats it! That is all there is to it!



Friday, 3 July 2015

volvo v70 2002 is showing the warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd'

volvo warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd'





volvo v70 2002 is showing the warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd', also the driver side front wheel makes a screeching sound not unlike worn down pads on discs when making a right or left
The vehicle has done 170k miles and I replaced the water pump and belts in March 2011. However, I did not refit the plastic inner wing till Nov of 2011. Could this have anything to do with noises and warnings I am now receiving. I guess I am keen to know if the problems are wheel speed sensors or ABS/ECU issues.


Get that car Jacked up and pull the wheel and do a very close inspection. It could be any thing from a rock in the Caliper, to loose wheel bearings to bad brake pads to a bad CV Joint.Inspect for where there is any fresh wear or grind marks on your suspension to check for integrity. Also if you have run over a piece of wire it could be wrapped up int he CV axle.

Inspect the brakes/suspension first. If pads and suspension are ok then have the ABS system scanned for faults. You have either a bad wheel speed sensor activating the ABS or a bad ABS module. Volvo has lots of issues with this. The ABS/Tracs control module has solder joints that go bad in the control module 99% of the time it is the issue. Have the module repaired/replaced.


any noise coming from the front wheel while turning leaves me thinking front constant velocity joint if the car is front wheel drive. With the abs light on I would take down the front driver side wheel and check the brakes for wear along with the front wheel bearing assembly for play or loosness, Check for the sensors to make sure they havent came off and are rubbing your rotors as you make your turn. It can be a number of things. Usually when its the front constant velocity joint it makes a popping noise as if something is binding. As for the front wheel bearing assembly it could make noises usually after the car has been ran down the road and heated up the bearing then it will sing to you. But as you mentioned about the noise only during turning I would lean towards constant velocity joint or sensor hanging and rubbing the rotor, Its only one way to find out. Hope this helps.




Sputters and shakes when accellerating

Sputters and shakes when accellerating


2001 volvo v70. The car shakes and sputters when accelerating from 0 to 35 mph. Also the abs light and check engine light flashes really fast. There was also a slight metallic/rubber smell.



You have an engine misfire....unless you have expertise in this area you need to see your local shop as you will damage your catalytic converter if you continue to drive. 

Check the Coil Pack Rubber insulator boots. If you have one that is torn that will cause your problem. The Boots are only $8.50 each through IPD.

Sputtering is more than likely a bad ignition coil. If the MIL (check engine light) is flashing it indicates possible damage to the cat converter. LOTS of coil problems on these cars-Replace them all unless you want to keep bringing it back for the next year. ABS is probably a module. Volvo has lots of issues with this. The ABS/Tracs control module has solder joints that go bad in the control module 99% of the time it is the issue. Have the module repaired/replaced.

Key won't come out of ingnition

Key won't come out of ingnition


1999 Volvo V70


Key wont release from the ignition when the car is off. It is in park. Abs and service light is on. At this point the vehicle starts and drives so Im not sure what I should do.


I had the same problem and found that if I made sure the button on the shift lever is out all the way the key would come out. Mine was sticking and had to be pulled out, the spring had become weak on the shift knob.

Sound like 2 issues. Ignition key maybe that the cable to the shifter is out of adjustment. If the cable is out of adjustment/broken the key will not come out. ABS is probably a module. Volvo has lots of issues with this. The ABS/Tracs control module has solder joints that go bad in the control module 99% of the time it is the issue. Have the module repaired/replaced.

Jiggle the steering wheel while trying to remove the key.

Some cars, you have to push in and turn to a full off position before you can remove the key.


Where is the transmission code located on the car?

2004 Volkswagen New Beetle 


Where is the transmission code located on the car?



The code letters on an automatic transaxle are on a metal plate near where the transaxle butts up against the engine. The stamped transaxle type is in the metal of the housing, away from the engine and closer to the front wheel. Both the code letters and tight become visible by your raising the vehicle up onto jack stands and viewing from underneath.