95 mustang leaking coolant behind water pump.

Coolant Leaking Behind Waterpump

95 mustang v6 leaking coolant behind the new water pump. worse when turned on. does not appear to be the pump or any hoses.

Solution:

If the leak is behind the water pump , then either the new water pump gasket is leaking or the timing cover from the timing chain that the water pump bolts to is leaking and the gasket between the timing cover and the engine block.

A couple of the water pump bolts are actually studs that go through the timing cover to the engine block. When the nuts are loosened, the timing cover also loosens. If the gasket for the timing cover is close to failing, it will start to leak. The reason it doesn't leak much with the engine off it because the water pump is not running and no real pressure is on the system. When the engine is running, the cooling system builds up pressure, usually 16 psi and it will push through a weak gasket.

I think it is just in need of a new gasket at 151000 miles. The bolts will really go in one way and the nuts on the studs will tighten up when in the correct place. If you removed the studs, then the gasket is in need of replacement.

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PROBLEM 2:

Now it idles smooth. Seems to have all the air out of the coolant lines. BUT when I drive it, it runs with the temp gauge to the red, then cools off to the center, then back to almost the red. The only time the heat kicks out hot air (heat on the whole time) is when it gets to the red and immediately goes to the center. At this time, it runs rough. After it cools off, it idles great, runs great for a short while. Think it is a head gasket?

There should be a bleeder cap bolt located on top of the engine near the front of the intake.It is right above the thermostat on the intake manifold.

There should be a bleeder cap bolt located on top of the engine near the front of the intake.It is right above the thermostat on the intake manifold.

graphic

When the engine is cold, remove the bleeder bolt and fill the radiator with coolant till the coolant comes out the bleeder opening. Then reinstall the bleeder bolt and start the engine. Let it warm up and then loosen the bleeder bolt, do not remove it, just loosen it and let some coolant come out and then close the bleeder. Top the coolant off and drive the Mustang.

The problem you have is an air pocket in the cooling system.

Thermostat Operation:

The automotive thermostat is a temperature controlled on and off valve. When the temperature rises to a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens up to allow the engine coolant to flow through the cylinder block and the radiator. This flow is crucial to maintain optimum operating temperature for fuel efficiency, enhanced driveability, and engine protection. The coolant flow is reduced when the engine is cold, and the flow is increased when the engine is hot. Contrary to popular opinion, operating the vehicle without the thermostat doesn't make the engine run cooler. It will actually run hotter because there isn't a thermostat to slow the coolant flow. This means the coolant doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to dissipate its heat.

Coolant Temperature Sensor Operation:

This sensor monitors the temperature of the engine and sends that information to the engine control computer to regulate the amount of fuel needed. More fuel is needed if the engine is cold; less if it's hot. If the temperature is extreme, the signal will be sent to the temperature gauge as a visual indicator of overheating and imminent danger.

Chevy Water Pump Leak

Water Pump Leak Repair

I have a problem with a water pump leak. I have replaced the original with a new pump, but I still have a leak I suspect around the gasket between the waterpump and the engine block. Any suggestions? I was very careful to clean the surfaces and evenly tighten the six bolts in a rotation first finger tight, then to 11 ft-lb, and finally to 22 ft-lb. Is 22 ft-lb the right final torque or do I need to re-torque after the engine has been through a couple of temperature cycles?

Solution:

I would check the intake gasket for leaking and running down,looking like its the waterpump, as far as I can tell you are doing everything right ,if need be I would put a pressure tester on the cooling system and pump it to 20 lbs and looking very closely at the intake.

all I can suggest is to put a little sealant on the bolts,11ft lbs the first pass and 22 ft lbs final pass is the correct specs.no I wouldnt torque it to 28 ft lbs as you are asking ,.let me ask this,Is the coolant leaking in the same spot with the new pump as it was with the original pump?I would inspect it more closely as the heads bolt to the block right there and it may be that the head gasket is leaking (,just a suggestion) If it is leaking in the same spot or there is apparent leakage where the head joins the block,check for the head gasket,it seems that there was a problem with some of the heads on these motors ,...guy..

Bulletin No.: 06-06-01-019B

Date: June 12, 2007

INFORMATION

Subject:

Information on Gradual Coolant Loss Over Time With No Evidence of Leak Found

 

Models:

2004-2006 Buick Rainier

2001-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

2001-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Blazer, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer Models

2001-2006 GMC Envoy, Jimmy, Sierra, Yukon Models

2001-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada

2005-2006 Saab 9-7X

 

with 4.8L or 5.3L VORTEC(R) GEN III, GEN IV V8 Engine (VINs V, T, M, B, Z - RPOs LR4, LM7, LH6, L33, L59)

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to include engine RPO L59. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-06-01-019A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Some vehicles may experience a gradual coolant loss over time. A very low percentage of cylinder head(s) manufactured with an embossed Castech logo may develop a porosity crack in a very specific area.

Inspect the cylinder head assembly to determine if the casting was manufactured by Castech. This can be accomplished by inspecting for their casting logo located on top of the intake port, under the rocker arm support rail and in the spring deck cavity portion of the cylinder head.

If the cylinder head(s) are Not a Castech casting, follow normal diagnostic procedures in SI to determine the cause of the coolant loss

it could be that the head has cracks and that may be causing the head to leak near the waterpump,

if all of this does not show any leak then perhaps get another pump

I will always use form-a-gasket on waterpump bolts,just put a tiny bit on the thread near the end of the bolt,the thread in the block sometimes goes into the water chambers(depth),also I was just working on a chevy with the 5.3liter motor and looking closely at where the head joins at the block and it is very close to where the waterpump bolts to, also too ,the intakes leak on quite a few of these motors ,so check very closely 

Water Pump Gasket Operation:

Normally a flexible material that's placed between the water pump and engine block to prevent external coolant leaks. Certain styles of water pumps require a backing plate gasket to seal off access to the impeller and shaft assembly.

To replace a water pump gasket:

Remove the water pump. clean all remnants of the old gasket off of the engine. be careful not to gouge aluminum parts.

A water pump often has a steel plate bolted to its back. The plate gasket sometimes dries out during shipping. If this happens the bolts will be loose, causing a leak.

Before installing a new pump, it is a good idea to remove the bolts and cement both sides of the plate gasket.

When replacing a pump, be sure that all gasket material is thoroughly removed and that any o-rings, hoses, or gaskets are not damaged or forced during assembly. Be sure that the screws that hold the cover on the back of the pump are tight.

Use sealer to glue the gasket to the water pump. Sometimes a chemical gasket is used.

Be sure that the surfaces of the pump and block have been cleaned of all oil and coolant so that the chemical can stick.

Paper gaskets are generally the only gaskets, other than retorqueable head gaskets, that require the use of a sealer. Paper gaskets are found on timing covers, water pumps, water outlets, fuel pumps, and some carburetors. Several manufacturers make tool sets for cutting the holes in paper gaskets.

When replacing a damaged gasket, gasket paper can be purchased in sheets. A gasket can be roughed out by holding the paper against the part and tapping on it with a ball-peen hammer.

cost to replace the water pump in a 2002 sebring

What is the cost to replace the water pump in a 2002 sebring?

The Water Pump sells for around $222 new, and reman for just around $100 or so. (Some reman's are just as good as new, and carry a warranty). The labor time guide calls for 3.4 hours to complete the job. On this vehicle, the water pump is driven by the timing belt, and it's highly recommened that the timing belt be replaced at the same time. If coolant has gotten onto the timing belt, it can harm the belt and effect it's reliability. This is a "better safe than sorry" repair, as if the belt is to break after water pump replacment, you'll have to pay for all this labor all over agian (not to mention the risk of internal engine damage due to the belt breaking!). If you choose to do this, the timing belt sells for around $86 and you will need to add another .5hr to the labor. Labor rates vary from shop to shop. For a job of this type, a "fair" labor rate can be anywhere from $85-$125 per hour.

• When replacing a water pump, it is necessary to drain the cooling system.
• Any components--belts, fan, fan shroud, shaft spacers, or viscous drive clutch--should be removed to make the pump accessible. Some pumps are attached to the cylinder block as shown below.

Installing a water pump. Courtesy of Dana Corporation.

• Loosen and remove the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward.
• Insert a rag into the block opening and scrape off any remains of the old gasket.

WARNING

When working on the coolant system (for example, replacing the water pump or thermostat), a certain amount of coolant will spill on the floor. The antifreeze in the coolant causes it to be very slippery. Always immediately wipe up any coolant that spills to reduce or eliminate the chance of injury.

• When replacing a water pump, always follow the procedures recommended by the manufacturer.
• Most often a coating of good waterproof sealer should be applied to a new gasket before it is placed into position on the water pump.
• Coat the other side of the gasket with sealer, and position the pump against the engine block until it is properly seated.
• Install the mounting bolts and tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to the torque specifications with a torque wrench. Careless tightening could cause the pump housing to crack. Check the pump to make sure it rotates freely.
• The water pumps on many late-model OHC engines are driven by the engine's timing belt. When replacing the water pump on these engines, always replace the timing belt.
• Make sure all pulleys and gears are aligned according to specifications when installing the belt.

07 Toyota rav4 water pump problem

Toyota  rav4 water pump problem

what would cause the water pump on a '07 rav4 V6 with 72000 miles to fail. seen others with same problem & we received recall notice for internal oil hose replacement. is this related to water pump problem? and yes, i've had regular maintenance on vehicle. i've driven toyotas since 1979, including 2 rav4's, and most with 175 - 200k before selling/trading and never had a water pump replaced in any of them. does the '07 rav4 V6 have a problem?

Solution:

The oil line replacement is part of the 90K recall, and has nothing to do with the water pump. They've found that a number of the oil line hoses were failing very prematurely, and making a HUGE oily mess. It is a piece of hose with about a 45 degree bend that is less than 6 inches long.

 

The water pump unfortunately is not considered powertrain. The engine, transmission, etc are your drive train. The waterpump is considered an accessory, much like a power steering pump, A/C compressor, or an alternator. I've seen a lot of them fail and start leaking, but is much, much more common in the 4 cylinder rav's and camry's. Most of those seem to go out between 80k and 100k miles. You may have not known about it before because most of the older vehicles had timing belts, and if you'd replace the timing belt usually you will replace the water pump at the same time (and if you put 180-200k miles, that's a couple timing belts right there).

MSRP on the part is $171 and labor to install it shouldn't be much. Like I said, Most guys can do them in an hour and a half or so. Honestly, there IS a TSB for an engine ticking noise and/or a BUNCH of CEL Codes where you replace the vvti actuators, 2 cams (the other 2 are reused) the cradle for cams, you have to remove the timing cover, which to get you you much remove the oil pan and secondary oil pan, along with PS Pump, alternator, intake, water pump, etc etc etc. You're basically stripping the engine down to the heads (only the bottom 1/3 part is left in the car) and block, replacing a few parts and resassembling. That entire job under warranty pays 16 hours, plus a couple extra hours for different combinations you can add in, but you're lucky if you can get 18 hours labor to strip the entire engine down to next to nothing and rebuild it. A water pump for 10-14 hours, you can't be serious. I'd be taking it to somewhere else, or raising holy hell at the dealership you've been servicing it at, ESPECIALLY if it is covered.

Water Pump Operation:

A device, usually located on the front of the engine and driven by one of the accessory drive belts, that circulates the coolant by causing it to move from the lower radiator-outlet section into the engine by centrifugal action of a finned impeller on the pump shaft.

The majority of water pump failures are attributed to leaks of some sort. When the pump seal fails, coolant will begin to seep out of the weep hole in the casting.

Signs of leakage from the water pump vent means the pump's seal is bad. Courtesy of Federal-Mogul Corporation.

This is an early indicator of trouble. The seals may simply wear out due to abrasives in the cooling system, or some types of seals crack due to thermal shock such as adding cold water to an overheated engine. This could also cause other internal parts to fail.

Other failures can be attributed to bearing and shaft problems and an occasional cracked casting. Water pump bearing or seal failure can be caused by surprisingly small out-of-balance conditions that are difficult to spot. Look for the following:

• A bent fan. A single bent blade will cause problems.
• A piece of fan missing.
• A cracked fan blade. Even a small crack will prevent proper flexing.
• Fan mounting surfaces that are not clean or flush.
• A worn fan clutch.

To check a water pump, start the engine and listen for a bad bearing, using a mechanic's stethoscope or rubber tubing.

• Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft.
• If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.

WARNING

Whenever working near a running engine, keep your hands and clothing away from the moving fan, pulleys, and belts. Do not allow the stethoscope or rubber tubing to be caught by the moving parts.

There is another test that can be performed on vehicles with an engine-driven fan.

• With the engine off and the fan belt and shroud removed, grasp the fan and attempt to move it in and out and up and down.
• More than 1/16 inch (1.58 mm) of movement indicates worn bearings that require water pump replacement.
• To determine whether the water pump is allowing for good circulation, warm up the engine and run it at idle speed.
• Squeeze the upper hose connection with one hand and accelerate the engine with the other hand.
• If a surge on the hose is felt, the pump is working.
• Any air being sucked into the cooling system is certain to have a detrimental effect.
• It cuts down pumping efficiency and causes both rusting and wear at a rate approximately three times above normal.
• To test for aeration, have the engine fully warmed up, all hose connections tight, and the coolant level up to normal.
• Attach one end of a small hose to the radiator overflow pipe and put the other end into a jar of water.
• Run the engine at a fast idle. If a steady stream of bubbles appears in the jar of water, air is getting into the cooling system.
• Check first for a cylinder gasket leak by running a compression test.
• If two adjacent cylinders test low, the gasket is bad. Otherwise, there is an air leak somewhere else in the cooling system.

• When replacing a water pump, it is necessary to drain the cooling system.
• Any components--belts, fan, fan shroud, shaft spacers, or viscous drive clutch--should be removed to make the pump accessible. Some pumps are attached to the cylinder block as shown below.

Installing a water pump. Courtesy of Dana Corporation.

• Loosen and remove the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward.
• Insert a rag into the block opening and scrape off any remains of the old gasket.

WARNING

When working on the coolant system (for example, replacing the water pump or thermostat), a certain amount of coolant will spill on the floor. The antifreeze in the coolant causes it to be very slippery. Always immediately wipe up any coolant that spills to reduce or eliminate the chance of injury.

• When replacing a water pump, always follow the procedures recommended by the manufacturer.
• Most often a coating of good waterproof sealer should be applied to a new gasket before it is placed into position on the water pump.
• Coat the other side of the gasket with sealer, and position the pump against the engine block until it is properly seated.
• Install the mounting bolts and tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to the torque specifications with a torque wrench. Careless tightening could cause the pump housing to crack. Check the pump to make sure it rotates freely.
• The water pumps on many late-model OHC engines are driven by the engine's timing belt. When replacing the water pump on these engines, always replace the timing belt.
• Make sure all pulleys and gears are aligned according to specifications when installing the belt.

petrol and engine oil are mixing

The petrol and engine oil are mixing, what could be the cause of this?

fuel is mixing whit the oil already change the fuel pump

Your problem is going to be an injector(s) or injector O-rings. Fuel can leak out of the solenoid of the injector into the oil, or the injector o-rings can leak into the oil also. 

You will need to bypass the fuel filter, add some clean fuel in a bucket, add some fuel/oil dye to the fuel, and run the truck off of the bucket of fuel. Take the return off of the back of the head, and also run this into the same bucket, let it run for a little while off of this fuel, remove the valve cover, jake housings(if equipped) and rocker arms, take a black light, the dye will glow where the fuel is coming from.

I would not rule out an injector, I have seen it more than once, but the most common is injector O-rings.

You should have 3 o-rings, they should be pretty close to the same size. It is also recommended that you replace the hold-down bolts because they do stretch. 

Detroit came out with an Auxiliary seal O-ring. It is very thick, and also you have a graphite seal that goes on the tip of the injector the accompany this o-ring as well. This o-ring is needed if you are getting fuel into the coolant due to a leaking injector cup. This is a quick, cheaper alternative than have to remove the cylinder head to replace the injector cups. If your injectors have these, you will need to replace these too otherwise you will eventually get fuel back into your coolant. 

2005 Nissan Murano where is the filler plug for transfer case?

Transfer case Filler Plug Location

2005 Nissan Murano sl 3.5 front wheel drive. where is the filler plug for transfer case?

If it's front wheel drive only and not AWD, you need to add CVT fluid to the transmission. I strongly recommend you get the fluid at the dealer. Transmission fluid is added through the dipstick tube.

the "drain plug is 10mm hex key, filler plug is 12mm box wrench".

OBD 1605

Nissan Altima OBD code 1605

P1605 NISSAN - Automatic Transmission Communication

The 1605 code for your year Altima is either due to a weak battery or a bad AT control unit.
Weak battery
- Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM)
- Harness is open or shorted between TCM and Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Poor circuit electrical connection between TCM and ECM

Here is the steps to check the system out yourself.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/105565483/1d.pdf

If the transmission seems to function fine,then it is more likely to be either a weak battery or an opened or shorted communication line between the ECM and the A/T control unit?
Malfunction is detected when an incorrect signal from Transmission control module (TCM) is sent to Engine Control Module (ECM).


I would start by clearing the code and see if it returns. If it does, I would check the battery and the charging system voltage before replacing a control unit or getting crazy about checking wiring.

This will help.
Thanks.

coolant over flow 

I just filled  coolant over flow area all the way up, Now what to do?

Solution:

Its ok that you filled it up. If the engine is low it will take some of the antifreeze out of the overflow as needed. You may see some on the ground because when the engine cools it can put it back into the overflow. You aren't going to damage anything by doing this. If it still concerns you, you can adjust the level by using a turkey baster to pull some of the extra out of the overflow.

Coolant Temperature Sensor Operation:

This sensor monitors the temperature of the engine and sends that information to the engine control computer to regulate the amount of fuel needed. More fuel is needed if the engine is cold; less if it's hot. If the temperature is extreme, the signal will be sent to the temperature gauge as a visual indicator of overheating and imminent danger.

Inspect the sensor's wires and connections. ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor problems are often caused by faulty wiring or loose or corroded connections rather than the failure of the sensor itself.

If the wires or connections are bad, replace them. If you think the sensor is defective, it should be tested.

WARNING

Never apply an open flame to an ECT (engine coolant temperature) or IAT (intake air temperature) sensor for test purposes. This action will damage the sensor.

A defective ECT sensor may cause some of the following problems:

• Hard engine starting
• Rich or lean air/fuel ratio
• Improper operation of emissions devices
• Reduced fuel economy
• Improper converter clutch lockup
• Hesitation on acceleration
• Engine stalling

The ect sensor may be removed and placed in a container of water with an ohmmeter connected across the sensor terminals. a thermometer is also placed in the water. when the water is heated, the sensor should have the specified resistance at any temperature. if the sensor does not have the specified resistance, replace the sensor.

Specifications of an ECT temperature sensor. Reprinted with permission.

The wiring to the sensor can also be checked with an ohmmeter. With the wiring connectors disconnected from the ECT sensor and the computer, connect an ohmmeter from each sensor terminal to the computer terminal to which the wire is connected. Both sensor wires should indicate less resistance than specified by the vehicle manufacturer. If the wires have higher resistance than specified, the wires or wiring connectors must be repaired.

Specifications for an ECT sensor. Reprinted with permission.

WARNING

Before disconnecting any computer system component, be sure the ignition switch is turned off. Disconnecting components may cause high induced voltages and computer damage.

With the sensor installed in the engine, the sensor terminals may be backprobed to connect a digital voltmeterto the sensor's terminals. the sensor should provide the specified voltage drop at any coolant temperature.

Voltage drop specifications for an ECT sensor.

Some computers have internal resistors connected in series with the ECT sensor. The computer switches these resistors at approximately 120° F (49° C). This resistance change inside the computer causes a significant change in voltage drop across the sensor, as indicated in the specifications. This is a normal condition on any computer with this feature. This change in voltage drop is always evident in the vehicle manufacturer's specifications.

Because ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor procedures vary depending upon their location, first locate the part. You may need to partially drain the engine coolant to prevent coolant spillage.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Unplug the ECT.

Then, unscrew it.

Reverse the removal procedures to install the new part.

Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.

2004 Nissan maxima speedometer and odometer not working

Speedometer And Odometer Not Working

my 2004 Nissan maxima 3.5 SE speedometer and odometer stopping working...Every thing else on the cluster still works

 I went to auto zone and there scanner tool said P1574

Solution for this problem:

This is your Vehicle speed sensor , with both not working to tells me the speedometer ? cluster is okay .

The code also indicated the VSS .

Replace the sensor and it will start to work again /

Which one of the trans speed sensors did you replace .

Okay there are three sensors output input and vehicle speed sensor .

Was this the one replaced if not replace this sensor . 

this is back near the engine ,looks like you replaced the turbine speed sensor .

The one you need to replace is the sensor marked with a red oval ring

Auto lock system / alarm going off, car wont start

Auto lock system / alarm going off, car wont start

Nissan 02 altima

Its the factory auto door lock & alarm system,when I use the key chain lock/unlock its stooped working so when I use the key to open the door, the alarm go's off. I somehow got the horn to stop but now it won't start at all I think that the car's computer has shut down the stater as It's anit-theft mec. The vehicle wiil not start ! The alarm was activated, And I tried to turn it off by starting the vehicle, and now it won't start !

Nissan did not come out with auto lock till 2010. So if your doors auto lock, then the after market alarm is keeping the truck from starting.

Try this solution:----

Lets first do this and set the alarm and turn it off to make sure that isn't what is causing your problem. Do not use the remote, use the key. Open the drivers window.

Lock all the doors from the out side using the key at the drivers door. The security light should turn solid for about 20 seconds. Then start to blink. Leave the key in the door, and when the light starts to blink, reach in and unlock the door and open it. This will set off the factory alarm, then use the key in the door to unlock the door and that will turn it off. Then see if the truck starts.

Also let me know if the key is turning in the ignition and if the engine is turning over and not starting or if nothing happens when you turn the key.

This will help.
Thanks.

Ford lose power while driving uphills

car lose power while driving uphills

If the engine is running on all cylinders, runs fairly good overall but loses power on inclines or hills. I really have to lean to a possible blocked cat converter or one becoming blocked. The " honeycomb" material inside will break down over time and when it does, its causes a partial blockage, engine cant breathe and normally noticed under load lik up a hill but in most cases run ok otherwise. There is a tool to check back-pressure on each side of the cat converter to confirm but without one, I can only lean to one becoming blocked. In your case one would have to remove the cat, road test and if ok, then replace the converter. Due to age and miles, this is very possible the problem. they do degrade over time.

Another possibility bad gas can cause this, Most vehicles are hard to rid of old gas but I am fairly sure yours has a drain plug on the fuel tank. I would drain it, add good gas, maybe an additive and run it for a bit. It could be bad gas, cat converter or timing adjustment but tend to rule that out if it was ok and no one was affecting the timing. Running smooth and not misfiring leads more to fuel delivery or engine breathing. easiest and cheapest to start with fresh fuel.

Also I am thinking fuel pressure test. May have enough pressure to run engine ok at times but not enough when demand is high under load. Without fuel pressure gauge makes this hard to diagnose. Its a low pressure system so pressure would regulate to around 18 psi under load. Fuel filter replace may? be a bit of a clue as there is also a filter on the end of the fuel pump. Possible is is partially blocked or the pump is getting weak

=======

But if you have a rattling sound under your car, you likely have a catalytic converter that has come apart and is intermittently restricting your exhaust. Otherwise a bad airflow meter or just one that has carbon on the filaments is one suspect but I would not suggest just changing it. You could have it cleaned though. If it is a bad meter, sooner or later it will 'set a code' and your check engine light will come on. At that point your mechanic will have enough information to fix your car. 

The Mass air Flow meter is between the throttle body and the air filter. It measures the amount of air going into the engine. The computer uses this measurement to calculate the amount of gas to inject into the engine. A blocked converter will stop the exhaust from leaving the engine and that feels alot like no gas. If the exhaust cannot get out, fresh air cannot get in.

Honda CR-V hood release cable broken

CRV hood release cable is broken,

How do you reconnect the top of the hood release cable when the hood wont open
You can see the cable if you pull on the hood as far as it will go

2002 CRV hood release cable is broken, or disconnected at the latch end
How can I open the hood

If it's loose it either broke at the cable or the end piece.
You have to get to the back of the latch and move the release arm. I usually try and get under the vehicle and remove the plastic splash shield from the bottom and get a long screwdriver or something I can fish up from the bottom to that arm to "pop" it open. Here's a couple pictures showing the release arm and latch so you can see where they are located.






The release arm (marked B) will release the primary latch. Then you can release the second safety latch like normal. That arm needs to come down . I have this extra long radiator hose pick that's angled just right to grab it and then I pull down to pop it.


 in the first diagram the B label is actually what is facing down in the car. weird how the picture is angled. So when you say "pull down" you mean pull it toward the letter B in the picture. Right?
Do you pull down on the flange that appears to stick out behind (which is toward the back of the car, or the kind-of-hook-thing that is toward the front of the car? Any chance of a diagram of your tool? The sheild that B's arrow is touching appears to be in the way for navigating a tool into position. any further tips?

The ball at the end of the cable holds the cable to the lever or release arm. You need to pull that lever or release arm down in the picture just like it would naturally if the cable was working. The B is up and the A is down. It looks funny in the picture if you're not used to it. From below the car you'll be grabbing the lever or release arm with something and pulling down.

 It's like a rod with a bent end. Remember though sometimes you can get to the release arm through the grill so don't overlook that option. I always check out what I'm working on and how I can get it to release. Some you have to go from under some through the grill.

DONT LOOSE PATIENCE

We managed to break the button snaps that hold the grill without damaging the grill by prying up the hood about 1/2 inch. resulting in the need to buy a new latch mechanism. 

this is the bad about these cables when they break.

you will have to gain access from under the front splash shied area and manually release the latch. you will see the cable as it attaches to the latch.

TO gain access from under the front splash shield area.if you have a lift this is the best way.

you can use a long screw driver or what ever you can use to reach up their.

if you remove the lower front splash shield you will be able to do this.

ENA Micro 9 One Touch usermanual

ENA Micro 9 One Touch

Just copy paste this link and you can go through the manual

http://data.manualslib.com/pdf4/90/8981/898039-jura/ena_micro_9_one_touch.pdf?4faf0eed105c1e2d09c5e43b17e53d0a

Thanks.

Canon ir c.5185 error code IR5075N E400-0100

Canon copier error code

Power on error code E400.

E400-0100

can occur if the Communication Cables on the rear of the scanner are loose or improperly connected. Re-seat all the cables on the rear of the scanner.




Re-seat the cable going from the ADF CONTROLLER to MEMORY PCB. If E400 is still present it has been found that replacing the ADF Controller or MEMORY PCB may be necessary.

Honda crv whining noise

Honda crv whining noise while driving

Honda CRV is making a loud whining noise when I am driving, but the sound stops immediately when I step on the brake. What is it?

Normally this is caused by worn out brake pads, the wear sensor is contacting the brake rotor and causing the squeal that you are hearing. The squeal will stop when you apply the brakes. I would suggest having you brakes checked.

Screeching/Whine from engine

Sounds like the serpentine belt is squealing, possible bad pulley or belt tensioner, should take off the belt and inspect all the pulleys and replace as necessary, with a new belt.

CRV whining noise like hydraulic pump or air conditioner.

Ok the noise is under the hood not inside the vehicle correct ?

Ok then it's one of two issues. The serpentine belt tensioner is starting to fail. What happens is the bearing overtime in the tensioner starts to fail and causes this issue . When the a/c is on there's more stress on the tensioner that's why the noise gets louder. The other issue is a problem with the compressor clutch and coil. Seen these heat up when the a/c is on and also cause this noise to be louder. These are the most common issues for this noise . These need to be checked next . 

If its just the compressor clutch and coil they can replace that about 300 parts and labour . If the entire compressor is bad then it would run about 600 parts and labour . These are dealer prices and would be less at a shop 

Honda crv started making a whining noise. It starts when I start the car and stays even if I'm stopped and in idle or if I'm driving.

It is loud enough to hear inside the car and out, I would say pretty loud...it is coming from the front, under the hood, 

the noise is coming from the alternator. Would it cause a loud whining noise if it were going out?

Answer:

Yes it can. The bearings inside can go bad and make a whining noise for sure. If you take off the alternator belt and start the engine you can confirm that's the cause for sure. Hope that helps.