petrol and engine oil are mixing

The petrol and engine oil are mixing, what could be the cause of this?

fuel is mixing whit the oil already change the fuel pump

Your problem is going to be an injector(s) or injector O-rings. Fuel can leak out of the solenoid of the injector into the oil, or the injector o-rings can leak into the oil also. 

You will need to bypass the fuel filter, add some clean fuel in a bucket, add some fuel/oil dye to the fuel, and run the truck off of the bucket of fuel. Take the return off of the back of the head, and also run this into the same bucket, let it run for a little while off of this fuel, remove the valve cover, jake housings(if equipped) and rocker arms, take a black light, the dye will glow where the fuel is coming from.

I would not rule out an injector, I have seen it more than once, but the most common is injector O-rings.

You should have 3 o-rings, they should be pretty close to the same size. It is also recommended that you replace the hold-down bolts because they do stretch. 

Detroit came out with an Auxiliary seal O-ring. It is very thick, and also you have a graphite seal that goes on the tip of the injector the accompany this o-ring as well. This o-ring is needed if you are getting fuel into the coolant due to a leaking injector cup. This is a quick, cheaper alternative than have to remove the cylinder head to replace the injector cups. If your injectors have these, you will need to replace these too otherwise you will eventually get fuel back into your coolant. 

2005 Nissan Murano where is the filler plug for transfer case?

Transfer case Filler Plug Location

2005 Nissan Murano sl 3.5 front wheel drive. where is the filler plug for transfer case?

If it's front wheel drive only and not AWD, you need to add CVT fluid to the transmission. I strongly recommend you get the fluid at the dealer. Transmission fluid is added through the dipstick tube.

the "drain plug is 10mm hex key, filler plug is 12mm box wrench".

OBD 1605

Nissan Altima OBD code 1605

P1605 NISSAN - Automatic Transmission Communication

The 1605 code for your year Altima is either due to a weak battery or a bad AT control unit.
Weak battery
- Faulty Transmission Control Module (TCM)
- Harness is open or shorted between TCM and Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Poor circuit electrical connection between TCM and ECM

Here is the steps to check the system out yourself.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/105565483/1d.pdf

If the transmission seems to function fine,then it is more likely to be either a weak battery or an opened or shorted communication line between the ECM and the A/T control unit?
Malfunction is detected when an incorrect signal from Transmission control module (TCM) is sent to Engine Control Module (ECM).


I would start by clearing the code and see if it returns. If it does, I would check the battery and the charging system voltage before replacing a control unit or getting crazy about checking wiring.

This will help.
Thanks.

coolant over flow 

I just filled  coolant over flow area all the way up, Now what to do?

Solution:

Its ok that you filled it up. If the engine is low it will take some of the antifreeze out of the overflow as needed. You may see some on the ground because when the engine cools it can put it back into the overflow. You aren't going to damage anything by doing this. If it still concerns you, you can adjust the level by using a turkey baster to pull some of the extra out of the overflow.

Coolant Temperature Sensor Operation:

This sensor monitors the temperature of the engine and sends that information to the engine control computer to regulate the amount of fuel needed. More fuel is needed if the engine is cold; less if it's hot. If the temperature is extreme, the signal will be sent to the temperature gauge as a visual indicator of overheating and imminent danger.

Inspect the sensor's wires and connections. ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor problems are often caused by faulty wiring or loose or corroded connections rather than the failure of the sensor itself.

If the wires or connections are bad, replace them. If you think the sensor is defective, it should be tested.

WARNING

Never apply an open flame to an ECT (engine coolant temperature) or IAT (intake air temperature) sensor for test purposes. This action will damage the sensor.

A defective ECT sensor may cause some of the following problems:

• Hard engine starting
• Rich or lean air/fuel ratio
• Improper operation of emissions devices
• Reduced fuel economy
• Improper converter clutch lockup
• Hesitation on acceleration
• Engine stalling

The ect sensor may be removed and placed in a container of water with an ohmmeter connected across the sensor terminals. a thermometer is also placed in the water. when the water is heated, the sensor should have the specified resistance at any temperature. if the sensor does not have the specified resistance, replace the sensor.

Specifications of an ECT temperature sensor. Reprinted with permission.

The wiring to the sensor can also be checked with an ohmmeter. With the wiring connectors disconnected from the ECT sensor and the computer, connect an ohmmeter from each sensor terminal to the computer terminal to which the wire is connected. Both sensor wires should indicate less resistance than specified by the vehicle manufacturer. If the wires have higher resistance than specified, the wires or wiring connectors must be repaired.

Specifications for an ECT sensor. Reprinted with permission.

WARNING

Before disconnecting any computer system component, be sure the ignition switch is turned off. Disconnecting components may cause high induced voltages and computer damage.

With the sensor installed in the engine, the sensor terminals may be backprobed to connect a digital voltmeterto the sensor's terminals. the sensor should provide the specified voltage drop at any coolant temperature.

Voltage drop specifications for an ECT sensor.

Some computers have internal resistors connected in series with the ECT sensor. The computer switches these resistors at approximately 120° F (49° C). This resistance change inside the computer causes a significant change in voltage drop across the sensor, as indicated in the specifications. This is a normal condition on any computer with this feature. This change in voltage drop is always evident in the vehicle manufacturer's specifications.

Because ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor procedures vary depending upon their location, first locate the part. You may need to partially drain the engine coolant to prevent coolant spillage.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Unplug the ECT.

Then, unscrew it.

Reverse the removal procedures to install the new part.

Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.

2004 Nissan maxima speedometer and odometer not working

Speedometer And Odometer Not Working

my 2004 Nissan maxima 3.5 SE speedometer and odometer stopping working...Every thing else on the cluster still works

 I went to auto zone and there scanner tool said P1574

Solution for this problem:

This is your Vehicle speed sensor , with both not working to tells me the speedometer ? cluster is okay .

The code also indicated the VSS .

Replace the sensor and it will start to work again /

Which one of the trans speed sensors did you replace .

Okay there are three sensors output input and vehicle speed sensor .

Was this the one replaced if not replace this sensor . 

this is back near the engine ,looks like you replaced the turbine speed sensor .

The one you need to replace is the sensor marked with a red oval ring

Auto lock system / alarm going off, car wont start

Auto lock system / alarm going off, car wont start

Nissan 02 altima

Its the factory auto door lock & alarm system,when I use the key chain lock/unlock its stooped working so when I use the key to open the door, the alarm go's off. I somehow got the horn to stop but now it won't start at all I think that the car's computer has shut down the stater as It's anit-theft mec. The vehicle wiil not start ! The alarm was activated, And I tried to turn it off by starting the vehicle, and now it won't start !

Nissan did not come out with auto lock till 2010. So if your doors auto lock, then the after market alarm is keeping the truck from starting.

Try this solution:----

Lets first do this and set the alarm and turn it off to make sure that isn't what is causing your problem. Do not use the remote, use the key. Open the drivers window.

Lock all the doors from the out side using the key at the drivers door. The security light should turn solid for about 20 seconds. Then start to blink. Leave the key in the door, and when the light starts to blink, reach in and unlock the door and open it. This will set off the factory alarm, then use the key in the door to unlock the door and that will turn it off. Then see if the truck starts.

Also let me know if the key is turning in the ignition and if the engine is turning over and not starting or if nothing happens when you turn the key.

This will help.
Thanks.

Ford lose power while driving uphills

car lose power while driving uphills

If the engine is running on all cylinders, runs fairly good overall but loses power on inclines or hills. I really have to lean to a possible blocked cat converter or one becoming blocked. The " honeycomb" material inside will break down over time and when it does, its causes a partial blockage, engine cant breathe and normally noticed under load lik up a hill but in most cases run ok otherwise. There is a tool to check back-pressure on each side of the cat converter to confirm but without one, I can only lean to one becoming blocked. In your case one would have to remove the cat, road test and if ok, then replace the converter. Due to age and miles, this is very possible the problem. they do degrade over time.

Another possibility bad gas can cause this, Most vehicles are hard to rid of old gas but I am fairly sure yours has a drain plug on the fuel tank. I would drain it, add good gas, maybe an additive and run it for a bit. It could be bad gas, cat converter or timing adjustment but tend to rule that out if it was ok and no one was affecting the timing. Running smooth and not misfiring leads more to fuel delivery or engine breathing. easiest and cheapest to start with fresh fuel.

Also I am thinking fuel pressure test. May have enough pressure to run engine ok at times but not enough when demand is high under load. Without fuel pressure gauge makes this hard to diagnose. Its a low pressure system so pressure would regulate to around 18 psi under load. Fuel filter replace may? be a bit of a clue as there is also a filter on the end of the fuel pump. Possible is is partially blocked or the pump is getting weak

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But if you have a rattling sound under your car, you likely have a catalytic converter that has come apart and is intermittently restricting your exhaust. Otherwise a bad airflow meter or just one that has carbon on the filaments is one suspect but I would not suggest just changing it. You could have it cleaned though. If it is a bad meter, sooner or later it will 'set a code' and your check engine light will come on. At that point your mechanic will have enough information to fix your car. 

The Mass air Flow meter is between the throttle body and the air filter. It measures the amount of air going into the engine. The computer uses this measurement to calculate the amount of gas to inject into the engine. A blocked converter will stop the exhaust from leaving the engine and that feels alot like no gas. If the exhaust cannot get out, fresh air cannot get in.