toyota tacoma fuse box

TOYOTA TACOMA FUSE BOX 

EFI fuse under the hood

Toyota Tacoma (2005 – 2008) – fuse box diagram

Year of production: 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

Engine compartment

Toyota Tacoma mk2 – fuse box – engine compartment

Instrument panel

Toyota Tacoma mk2 – fuse box – instrument panel

Fuses (type A)

Fuse		Ampere rating [A]	Circuit
1	A/C	10	Air conditioning system
2	FR FOG	15	Front fog lights
3	TOWING TAIL	30	Trailer lights (tail lights)
4	STOP	10	Stop lights, high mounted stop light, vehicle stability control system, anti- lock brake system, shift lock system, multiport fuel injection system/ sequential multiport fuel injection system, towing converter
5	OBD	7,5	On- board diagnosis system
6	EFI NO.2	10	Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
7	TOWING BRK	30	Trailer brake controller
8	BATT CHG	30	Trailer sub battery
9	TOWING	30	Towing converter
10	TRN- HAZ	15	Turn signal lights, emergency flashers, meter and gauge
11	RADIO NO.2	30	Audio system
12	HEAD (LO RH)	10	Right- hand headlight (low beam)
13	HEAD (LO LH)	10	Left- hand headlight (low beam), front fog lights
14	HEAD (HI RH)	10	Right- hand headlight (high beam)
15	HEAD (HI LH)	10	Left- hand headlight (high beam), meter and gauge
16	ETCS	10	Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system, electronic throttle control system
17	ALT- S	7,5	Charging system
18	EFI	20	Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
19	HORN	10	Horn
20	A/F HEATER	15	Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
21	ECU- B	7,5	Wireless remote control system, air conditioning system, multiplex communication system, engine immobilizer system, meter and gauge, clock, front passenger occupant classification system
22	DOME	7,5	Interior light, personal lights
23	RADIO NO.1	10	Audio system
24	STA	7,5	Starting system, multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system, meter and gauge, clutch start cancel switch
25	IGN	15	Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system, engine immobilizer system, anti- lock brake system, traction control system, vehicle stability control system, SRS airbag system, front passenger occupant classification system
26	GAUGE	7,5	Meter and gauge, emergency flashers, front passenger’s seat belt warning system
27	TAIL	10	Tail lights, license plate lights, parking lights, multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system, front fog lights, instrument panel light control, illuminations
28	ACC	7,5	Shift lock system, outside rear view mirrors, audio system, power outlets
29	PWR OUTLET	15	Power outlets
30	DR LCK	20	Door lock system
31	IG1 NO.2	10	Anti- lock brake system, vehicle stability control system, stop lights, charging system, multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system, air conditioning system, instrument panel light control, clutch start cancel switch, rear differential lock system, power outlets
32	IG1	10	Back- up lights, air conditioning system, passenger airbag manual on- off switch, shift lock system
33	P RR P/W	20	Rear passenger’s power window (right side)
34	P FR P/W	20	Front passenger’s power window
35	WSH	10	Wipers and washer
36	D RR P/W	20	Rear passenger’s power window (left side)
38	4WD	20	Four- wheel drive system, rear differential lock system
39	WIP	30	Wipers and washer

Fuses (type B)

Fuse		Ampere rating [A]	Circuit
40	J/B	50	“TAIL”, “AC SKT”, “DR LCK”, “D FR P/W”, “D RR P/W”, “P FR P/W”, “P RR P/W”
41	AM1	50	“ACC”, “IG1”, “IG1 NO.2”, “WIP”, “WSH”, “4WD”, “STA”
42	HEATER	50	“A/C”, air conditioning system
42	ABS NO.1	50	Anti- lock brake system, vehicle stability control system
43	AM2	30	“IGN”, “GAUGE”, multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
44	A/PUMP	50	Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
45	ABS NO.2	30	Anti- lock brake system, vehicle stability control
46	D FR P/W	30	Power windows

Fuses (type C)

Fuse		Ampere rating [A]	Circuit
47	AC SKT	100	Cigarette lighter, power outlets

Fuses (type D)

Fuse		Ampere rating [A]	Circuit
48	ALT	120 (without towing package)	“AM1”, “AC SKT”, “HEATER”, “FR FOG”, “STOP”, “OBD”, “J/B”, “TOWING TAIL”, “TOWING BRK”, “BATT CHG”
		140 (with towing package)

WARNING: Terminal and harness assignments for individual connectors will vary depending on vehicle equipment level, model, and market.

honda fuse box diagram

 Where is fuse box located in honda

Fuses, located in-between the battery, are the electrical components your car draws power from. It's important to know where the fuses are located and what each fuse does, so that if you ever have a problem you know where to start looking. Always start the diagnosis of an electrical problem with its fuse because they are easy to test and pretty cheap to replace.

Honda  Component Breakdown

Interior Fuse Box

The interior fuse box is located underneath the dashboard on the driver's side. The lid is clipped in. To remove it, swing the lid down and pull it out.

Interior Fuse Box

Driver's side fuse box.

The interior fuse panel (Figure 1a) is located under the dash (Figure 1b). The table in Figure 1c contains the fuse, the rating, and what the fuse does. For example, if your radio stopped working, you'd need to test fuse number 23 and replace it with a new 15 amp fuse if found to be faulty. Because interior fuses commonly fail, it is recommended to keep a pack with an assortment of different amperage in the glove compartment.

Under the Hood Fuse Box

The fuse box under the hood is located next to the battery in the engine compartment.

The diagram in Figure 2a is the layout of the fuse box located under the hood. Figure 2c gives the amperage and what the fuse—in that location—controls. These fuses are less likely to blow than the ones inside the car. That said, it'll also be less likely that there'll be a spare handily available in the event that one does. If one of these fuses does blow, it's usually a sign that there is something else wrong that caused it to fail in the first place.

Honda Civic (1996-2000) Component Breakdown

Interior Fuse Box

Figure 3a is the layout of the interior fuse panel (located under the dash), while Figure 3b is a table containing the fuse number, the rating, and what that fuse does. If the radio stopped working, for example, the next step would be to test fuse number 23 and replace it with a new 15 amp fuse if it's faulty. Interior fuses fail more frequently than under the hood fuses, which is why it is recommend keeping an assortment pack with different amperage fuses in the glove compartment.

Diagram of the fuse box under the hood.

Under the Hood Fuse Box

Figure 4a is the layout of the fuse panel, which is located under the hood, while Figure 4b gives the amperage and what that fuse—in that location—controls. These fuses are less likely to blow and are larger fuses than ones inside the car, so it's less likely you will have a spare in the even one does. In addition, if one of these fuses does blow it's usually a sign that there is something else wrong that caused it to fail in the first place.

Engines VIN or serial number?

Location of engine vin serial number The vehicle identification number (VIN) is located on the left side rear of the engine block (1) and is typically a nine digit number stamped or laser-etched onto the engine at the vehicle assembly plant. •The first digit identifies the division. •The second digit identifies the model year. •The third digit identifies the assembly plant. •The fourth through ninth digits are the last six digits of the VIN. 

engine vin number location

95 mustang leaking coolant behind water pump.

Coolant Leaking Behind Waterpump

95 mustang v6 leaking coolant behind the new water pump. worse when turned on. does not appear to be the pump or any hoses.

Solution:

If the leak is behind the water pump , then either the new water pump gasket is leaking or the timing cover from the timing chain that the water pump bolts to is leaking and the gasket between the timing cover and the engine block.

A couple of the water pump bolts are actually studs that go through the timing cover to the engine block. When the nuts are loosened, the timing cover also loosens. If the gasket for the timing cover is close to failing, it will start to leak. The reason it doesn't leak much with the engine off it because the water pump is not running and no real pressure is on the system. When the engine is running, the cooling system builds up pressure, usually 16 psi and it will push through a weak gasket.

I think it is just in need of a new gasket at 151000 miles. The bolts will really go in one way and the nuts on the studs will tighten up when in the correct place. If you removed the studs, then the gasket is in need of replacement.

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PROBLEM 2:

Now it idles smooth. Seems to have all the air out of the coolant lines. BUT when I drive it, it runs with the temp gauge to the red, then cools off to the center, then back to almost the red. The only time the heat kicks out hot air (heat on the whole time) is when it gets to the red and immediately goes to the center. At this time, it runs rough. After it cools off, it idles great, runs great for a short while. Think it is a head gasket?

There should be a bleeder cap bolt located on top of the engine near the front of the intake.It is right above the thermostat on the intake manifold.

There should be a bleeder cap bolt located on top of the engine near the front of the intake.It is right above the thermostat on the intake manifold.

graphic

When the engine is cold, remove the bleeder bolt and fill the radiator with coolant till the coolant comes out the bleeder opening. Then reinstall the bleeder bolt and start the engine. Let it warm up and then loosen the bleeder bolt, do not remove it, just loosen it and let some coolant come out and then close the bleeder. Top the coolant off and drive the Mustang.

The problem you have is an air pocket in the cooling system.

Thermostat Operation:

The automotive thermostat is a temperature controlled on and off valve. When the temperature rises to a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens up to allow the engine coolant to flow through the cylinder block and the radiator. This flow is crucial to maintain optimum operating temperature for fuel efficiency, enhanced driveability, and engine protection. The coolant flow is reduced when the engine is cold, and the flow is increased when the engine is hot. Contrary to popular opinion, operating the vehicle without the thermostat doesn't make the engine run cooler. It will actually run hotter because there isn't a thermostat to slow the coolant flow. This means the coolant doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to dissipate its heat.

Coolant Temperature Sensor Operation:

This sensor monitors the temperature of the engine and sends that information to the engine control computer to regulate the amount of fuel needed. More fuel is needed if the engine is cold; less if it's hot. If the temperature is extreme, the signal will be sent to the temperature gauge as a visual indicator of overheating and imminent danger.

Chevy Water Pump Leak

Water Pump Leak Repair

I have a problem with a water pump leak. I have replaced the original with a new pump, but I still have a leak I suspect around the gasket between the waterpump and the engine block. Any suggestions? I was very careful to clean the surfaces and evenly tighten the six bolts in a rotation first finger tight, then to 11 ft-lb, and finally to 22 ft-lb. Is 22 ft-lb the right final torque or do I need to re-torque after the engine has been through a couple of temperature cycles?

Solution:

I would check the intake gasket for leaking and running down,looking like its the waterpump, as far as I can tell you are doing everything right ,if need be I would put a pressure tester on the cooling system and pump it to 20 lbs and looking very closely at the intake.

all I can suggest is to put a little sealant on the bolts,11ft lbs the first pass and 22 ft lbs final pass is the correct specs.no I wouldnt torque it to 28 ft lbs as you are asking ,.let me ask this,Is the coolant leaking in the same spot with the new pump as it was with the original pump?I would inspect it more closely as the heads bolt to the block right there and it may be that the head gasket is leaking (,just a suggestion) If it is leaking in the same spot or there is apparent leakage where the head joins the block,check for the head gasket,it seems that there was a problem with some of the heads on these motors ,...guy..

Bulletin No.: 06-06-01-019B

Date: June 12, 2007

INFORMATION

Subject:

Information on Gradual Coolant Loss Over Time With No Evidence of Leak Found

 

Models:

2004-2006 Buick Rainier

2001-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

2001-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Blazer, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer Models

2001-2006 GMC Envoy, Jimmy, Sierra, Yukon Models

2001-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada

2005-2006 Saab 9-7X

 

with 4.8L or 5.3L VORTEC(R) GEN III, GEN IV V8 Engine (VINs V, T, M, B, Z - RPOs LR4, LM7, LH6, L33, L59)

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to include engine RPO L59. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-06-01-019A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Some vehicles may experience a gradual coolant loss over time. A very low percentage of cylinder head(s) manufactured with an embossed Castech logo may develop a porosity crack in a very specific area.

Inspect the cylinder head assembly to determine if the casting was manufactured by Castech. This can be accomplished by inspecting for their casting logo located on top of the intake port, under the rocker arm support rail and in the spring deck cavity portion of the cylinder head.

If the cylinder head(s) are Not a Castech casting, follow normal diagnostic procedures in SI to determine the cause of the coolant loss

it could be that the head has cracks and that may be causing the head to leak near the waterpump,

if all of this does not show any leak then perhaps get another pump

I will always use form-a-gasket on waterpump bolts,just put a tiny bit on the thread near the end of the bolt,the thread in the block sometimes goes into the water chambers(depth),also I was just working on a chevy with the 5.3liter motor and looking closely at where the head joins at the block and it is very close to where the waterpump bolts to, also too ,the intakes leak on quite a few of these motors ,so check very closely 

Water Pump Gasket Operation:

Normally a flexible material that's placed between the water pump and engine block to prevent external coolant leaks. Certain styles of water pumps require a backing plate gasket to seal off access to the impeller and shaft assembly.

To replace a water pump gasket:

Remove the water pump. clean all remnants of the old gasket off of the engine. be careful not to gouge aluminum parts.

A water pump often has a steel plate bolted to its back. The plate gasket sometimes dries out during shipping. If this happens the bolts will be loose, causing a leak.

Before installing a new pump, it is a good idea to remove the bolts and cement both sides of the plate gasket.

When replacing a pump, be sure that all gasket material is thoroughly removed and that any o-rings, hoses, or gaskets are not damaged or forced during assembly. Be sure that the screws that hold the cover on the back of the pump are tight.

Use sealer to glue the gasket to the water pump. Sometimes a chemical gasket is used.

Be sure that the surfaces of the pump and block have been cleaned of all oil and coolant so that the chemical can stick.

Paper gaskets are generally the only gaskets, other than retorqueable head gaskets, that require the use of a sealer. Paper gaskets are found on timing covers, water pumps, water outlets, fuel pumps, and some carburetors. Several manufacturers make tool sets for cutting the holes in paper gaskets.

When replacing a damaged gasket, gasket paper can be purchased in sheets. A gasket can be roughed out by holding the paper against the part and tapping on it with a ball-peen hammer.

cost to replace the water pump in a 2002 sebring

What is the cost to replace the water pump in a 2002 sebring?

The Water Pump sells for around $222 new, and reman for just around $100 or so. (Some reman's are just as good as new, and carry a warranty). The labor time guide calls for 3.4 hours to complete the job. On this vehicle, the water pump is driven by the timing belt, and it's highly recommened that the timing belt be replaced at the same time. If coolant has gotten onto the timing belt, it can harm the belt and effect it's reliability. This is a "better safe than sorry" repair, as if the belt is to break after water pump replacment, you'll have to pay for all this labor all over agian (not to mention the risk of internal engine damage due to the belt breaking!). If you choose to do this, the timing belt sells for around $86 and you will need to add another .5hr to the labor. Labor rates vary from shop to shop. For a job of this type, a "fair" labor rate can be anywhere from $85-$125 per hour.

• When replacing a water pump, it is necessary to drain the cooling system.
• Any components--belts, fan, fan shroud, shaft spacers, or viscous drive clutch--should be removed to make the pump accessible. Some pumps are attached to the cylinder block as shown below.

Installing a water pump. Courtesy of Dana Corporation.

• Loosen and remove the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward.
• Insert a rag into the block opening and scrape off any remains of the old gasket.

WARNING

When working on the coolant system (for example, replacing the water pump or thermostat), a certain amount of coolant will spill on the floor. The antifreeze in the coolant causes it to be very slippery. Always immediately wipe up any coolant that spills to reduce or eliminate the chance of injury.

• When replacing a water pump, always follow the procedures recommended by the manufacturer.
• Most often a coating of good waterproof sealer should be applied to a new gasket before it is placed into position on the water pump.
• Coat the other side of the gasket with sealer, and position the pump against the engine block until it is properly seated.
• Install the mounting bolts and tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to the torque specifications with a torque wrench. Careless tightening could cause the pump housing to crack. Check the pump to make sure it rotates freely.
• The water pumps on many late-model OHC engines are driven by the engine's timing belt. When replacing the water pump on these engines, always replace the timing belt.
• Make sure all pulleys and gears are aligned according to specifications when installing the belt.

07 Toyota rav4 water pump problem

Toyota  rav4 water pump problem

what would cause the water pump on a '07 rav4 V6 with 72000 miles to fail. seen others with same problem & we received recall notice for internal oil hose replacement. is this related to water pump problem? and yes, i've had regular maintenance on vehicle. i've driven toyotas since 1979, including 2 rav4's, and most with 175 - 200k before selling/trading and never had a water pump replaced in any of them. does the '07 rav4 V6 have a problem?

Solution:

The oil line replacement is part of the 90K recall, and has nothing to do with the water pump. They've found that a number of the oil line hoses were failing very prematurely, and making a HUGE oily mess. It is a piece of hose with about a 45 degree bend that is less than 6 inches long.

 

The water pump unfortunately is not considered powertrain. The engine, transmission, etc are your drive train. The waterpump is considered an accessory, much like a power steering pump, A/C compressor, or an alternator. I've seen a lot of them fail and start leaking, but is much, much more common in the 4 cylinder rav's and camry's. Most of those seem to go out between 80k and 100k miles. You may have not known about it before because most of the older vehicles had timing belts, and if you'd replace the timing belt usually you will replace the water pump at the same time (and if you put 180-200k miles, that's a couple timing belts right there).

MSRP on the part is $171 and labor to install it shouldn't be much. Like I said, Most guys can do them in an hour and a half or so. Honestly, there IS a TSB for an engine ticking noise and/or a BUNCH of CEL Codes where you replace the vvti actuators, 2 cams (the other 2 are reused) the cradle for cams, you have to remove the timing cover, which to get you you much remove the oil pan and secondary oil pan, along with PS Pump, alternator, intake, water pump, etc etc etc. You're basically stripping the engine down to the heads (only the bottom 1/3 part is left in the car) and block, replacing a few parts and resassembling. That entire job under warranty pays 16 hours, plus a couple extra hours for different combinations you can add in, but you're lucky if you can get 18 hours labor to strip the entire engine down to next to nothing and rebuild it. A water pump for 10-14 hours, you can't be serious. I'd be taking it to somewhere else, or raising holy hell at the dealership you've been servicing it at, ESPECIALLY if it is covered.

Water Pump Operation:

A device, usually located on the front of the engine and driven by one of the accessory drive belts, that circulates the coolant by causing it to move from the lower radiator-outlet section into the engine by centrifugal action of a finned impeller on the pump shaft.

The majority of water pump failures are attributed to leaks of some sort. When the pump seal fails, coolant will begin to seep out of the weep hole in the casting.

Signs of leakage from the water pump vent means the pump's seal is bad. Courtesy of Federal-Mogul Corporation.

This is an early indicator of trouble. The seals may simply wear out due to abrasives in the cooling system, or some types of seals crack due to thermal shock such as adding cold water to an overheated engine. This could also cause other internal parts to fail.

Other failures can be attributed to bearing and shaft problems and an occasional cracked casting. Water pump bearing or seal failure can be caused by surprisingly small out-of-balance conditions that are difficult to spot. Look for the following:

• A bent fan. A single bent blade will cause problems.
• A piece of fan missing.
• A cracked fan blade. Even a small crack will prevent proper flexing.
• Fan mounting surfaces that are not clean or flush.
• A worn fan clutch.

To check a water pump, start the engine and listen for a bad bearing, using a mechanic's stethoscope or rubber tubing.

• Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft.
• If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.

WARNING

Whenever working near a running engine, keep your hands and clothing away from the moving fan, pulleys, and belts. Do not allow the stethoscope or rubber tubing to be caught by the moving parts.

There is another test that can be performed on vehicles with an engine-driven fan.

• With the engine off and the fan belt and shroud removed, grasp the fan and attempt to move it in and out and up and down.
• More than 1/16 inch (1.58 mm) of movement indicates worn bearings that require water pump replacement.
• To determine whether the water pump is allowing for good circulation, warm up the engine and run it at idle speed.
• Squeeze the upper hose connection with one hand and accelerate the engine with the other hand.
• If a surge on the hose is felt, the pump is working.
• Any air being sucked into the cooling system is certain to have a detrimental effect.
• It cuts down pumping efficiency and causes both rusting and wear at a rate approximately three times above normal.
• To test for aeration, have the engine fully warmed up, all hose connections tight, and the coolant level up to normal.
• Attach one end of a small hose to the radiator overflow pipe and put the other end into a jar of water.
• Run the engine at a fast idle. If a steady stream of bubbles appears in the jar of water, air is getting into the cooling system.
• Check first for a cylinder gasket leak by running a compression test.
• If two adjacent cylinders test low, the gasket is bad. Otherwise, there is an air leak somewhere else in the cooling system.

• When replacing a water pump, it is necessary to drain the cooling system.
• Any components--belts, fan, fan shroud, shaft spacers, or viscous drive clutch--should be removed to make the pump accessible. Some pumps are attached to the cylinder block as shown below.

Installing a water pump. Courtesy of Dana Corporation.

• Loosen and remove the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward.
• Insert a rag into the block opening and scrape off any remains of the old gasket.

WARNING

When working on the coolant system (for example, replacing the water pump or thermostat), a certain amount of coolant will spill on the floor. The antifreeze in the coolant causes it to be very slippery. Always immediately wipe up any coolant that spills to reduce or eliminate the chance of injury.

• When replacing a water pump, always follow the procedures recommended by the manufacturer.
• Most often a coating of good waterproof sealer should be applied to a new gasket before it is placed into position on the water pump.
• Coat the other side of the gasket with sealer, and position the pump against the engine block until it is properly seated.
• Install the mounting bolts and tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to the torque specifications with a torque wrench. Careless tightening could cause the pump housing to crack. Check the pump to make sure it rotates freely.
• The water pumps on many late-model OHC engines are driven by the engine's timing belt. When replacing the water pump on these engines, always replace the timing belt.
• Make sure all pulleys and gears are aligned according to specifications when installing the belt.