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Friday, 3 July 2015

2000 Mazda 626 blows light white smoke

2000 Mazda 626 blows light white smoke after reaching 50mph


I have 2000 Mazda 626 that has been sitting for a few months.. The car runs and starts good no lights on panel on.. The battery has been disconnect since it hasn't been in use.. from time to time i start it and move it.. all fluids are full no leaks. Belts have been changed fluids as well. I have noticed once the car reaches 50mph the car will begin to blow light white smoke from tail pipe.. It stops blowing smoke when the car is idling. No other problems so far. I was told it could be Throttle Body need to cleaned.. but when I think of smoke coming out it leads to head gasket... Mechanic said it needed to be reprogrammed.. Unsure what that has to do with the smoke..


Basically it needs tuning and / or cleaning, you can a try an Internal Engine Cleaner Crc Motor Treatment 16 6.55 eBay. and see if that helps, i understand your worries about the headgasket of water problems, the best way to tell is to take your oil cover off the engine and look for a white substance (mayonaise) if its black or brown its just oil and all is good, but if it is creamy white or going that way then oil has mixed with water and you may have a problem, but with it been white smoke (not to mistaken with steam) then it's prob just a tuning issue.

mazda 626 runs great but will not stop burning oil and white smoke keeps coming out of the exuast pipe

1991 mazda 626 runs great but will not stop burning oil and white smoke keeps coming out of the exuast pipe


It sounds like two different problems. White smoke is indicative of water in the fuel. If it was oil burning the smoke would be blue.

The oil may be leaking out. Is there evidence of oil leakage on the road when you park? Check the engine for for oil leaks. 

There are additives available at auto parts stores that deal with water in the fuel supply. 


Did you check you cooling? The white smoke is from water, but I do not think that much water is in the fuel line.
If you lost cooling water then your head gasket is leaking, water goes into the cylinder(s).


black smoke from exuast

Lexus es300 1999 model is bring out black smoke from exuast and I have change brain box, air filometer, but it did not stop



Have you checked fault codes? There are so many things that could be causing it, checking and repairing any codes would be a start.

code p0306 cause codes p1135 an p1155 to come on on a 1999 lexus es300

Code p0306 cause codes p1135 an p1155 to come on a 1999 lexus es300



the fault code [generic-po306] is a cylinder 6 misfire,and can throw up manufacture specific p1135 and p1155. get a local garage to remove the number 6 plug from your lexus,and view the electrode end to see if it is 'oiled up'as you could have an internal engine problem,however it is rare to just have 1 cylinder with a specific problem,and will most commonly be the coil,you would be better off to replace all the 6 spark plug's and the 1 coil for that defective cylinder, 

Code p1135 what wrong help,toyota 2000,highlander

Code p1135 what wrong help,toyota 2000,highlander



2000 toyota highlander 6 cylinder,code p1135


That code is specific to the Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1135 Trouble Area:
Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
A/F sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) heater
ECM.



Getting code p1135 and p1155 on toyota rav4 2002

Getting code p1135 and p1155 on toyota rav4 2002



Here's what the codes mean:
P1135 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1155 Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2

This is mainly related to the oxygen sensors. It maybe the sensors themselves or an open wire going to te sensors. They are mainly located on the exhaust pipe. One before and on after the catalytic converter.



Try the bottom two my bottom 2 went as well.

The sensors on top are referred to as air/fuel sensors or "wide band" sensors. The sensors on the bottom (after the cat) are O2 sensors. Bank 1 is the pipe that comes from cylinder #1 and bank 2 is the pipe that incorporates cylinder #2.



How to find timing belts marks toyota rav4 2l

How to find timing belts marks toyota rav4 2l



Can not find proper timing marks to set timing belt on toyota rav4 2 liter.



I have just replaced my water pump on my 1998 RAVE4, also, the timing belt and the other two belts. I had a tough time with the timing marks. The way you line these marks up is easy if you take the time, First, if you are changing the timing belt you pull the balancer and both top and bottom plastic covers,(do not try to pull top cover off before you take off balencer and the motor mount off or you will just break it.), Second after covers are removed you will have access to the timing belt, you can now remove it by loosening the tensioner bolt and pushing down on the tensioner wheel, the belt then can be taken off. Third take out number one sparkplug and replace the bottom cover by maybe two bolts so that you can see marks on cover, next replace the balancer and bolt. Turn the motor over by hand with the balancer so the small divit on the back of the balancer is on 0 or top dead center on the compression stroke, you can use a compression gauge for this or I just used a mirror and light to shine in the number one cylinder to see the piston. Next remove the balancer and cover and make sure to make a mark on crankshaft gear and housing. Next you will need mirror and flashlight, now turn camshaft gear clockwise to line the hole in the gear with the top timing mark. I recommend a small circle mirror for this. Now replace the belt. I turned the crank shaft gear one tooth counter clockwise off mark and the camshaft one tooth clock wise off mark so when the belt is on you can turn the camshaft gear counter clockwise to get tension on the belt and marks will line up. I would recommend changing water pump,tensioner wheel, and the idler wheel. After belt is on I would replace the bottom cover the balancer and the crankshaft sensor. Iwould then start it to make sure the water pump is not leaking and the motor is not pinging or you will have to tear it back apart again.

There is a hole in the cam gear that if you look through it with a mirror and light you should see a small notch in the cam cap. on the crank gear there is a small divot between the teeth just to the left of the keyway notch that should align with a small dimple on the oil pump cover.