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Friday, 3 July 2015


Chevrolet: Just had my blower resistor go on my 2007 Silverado


Just had my blower resistor go on my 2007 Silverado (5th time). I wonder if the abs system is on the same circuit, local shop says the front hubs have play and the abs sensors don't work well.




Click the link below for solutions:
 http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/96cnr-chevrolet-just-blower-resistor-go-2007-silverado.html#ixzz3eocM9T2j

97 Chevy Suburban: 4wd..idling..the brake pedal, the engine..rough

97 Chevy Suburban: 4wd..idling..the brake pedal, the engine..rough



My parents have a 97 Chevy Suburban 4wd. The brakes are hard to push down on and require more pressure to stop the vehicle. Also, while idling and pressing the brake pedal, the engine runs very rough. I'm thinking that it is a vacuum leak of some sort. Could it be? Are there any simple test that I can do to narrow down the problem? Is there a check valve or some other thing that is common for a Suburban that can be replaced simply? Or could it be the master cylinder? Any help would be great. Thanks.


Check the link below for Answer:

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/2ivnt-parents-97-chevy-suburban-4wd-brakes-hard.html





the brake pedal, the engine..rough

the brake pedal, the engine..rough


Vacuum Booster

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION:


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figure 1
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Apply the parking brake.
  3. Unplug all necessary electrical connections.
  4. Remove the master cylinder from the booster and pull it off the studs, CAREFULLY! It is not necessary to disconnect the brake lines.
  5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the check valve.
  6. If necessary, remove the brake light switch.
  7. Disconnect the booster pushrod at the brake pedal.
  8. Remove the booster mounting nuts, located on the inside of the firewall.



Click image to see an enlarged view 
Fig. Fig. 1: Vacuum booster mounting
  1. Lift off the booster and remove the gasket.

To install:
  1. Install the booster with a new gasket.
  2. Tighten the booster mounting nuts to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) on all except 1996-98 models. On 1996-98 models, tighten the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (36 Nm).
  3. Install all remaining components.

Brake Power Booster

Showing 1 - 2 of 2 Items
Sort by Price: High High Low Low --- Select a Brand --- Cardone Reman Cardone Reman / Brake Power Booster Part Number:
54-71085   Price: $125.99
Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $28.00
Total: $153.99 Application:
With JB5, JB6 and JB7 brake system
Warranty:
LLT Notes: W/o master cylinder
STORE PICK UP IN STOCK SHIP TO HOME AVAILABLE  Cardone Reman / Brake Power Booster Part Number:
52-7358   Price: $176.99
Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $46.00
Total: $222.99 Application:
With JB8 brake system
Warranty:


when you press on brake pedal the idle goes way down and you can hear air

I have a 1985 chevette when you press on brake pedal the idle goes way down and you can hear air. But the air leak is not coming from the brake pedal. It has standard brakes



The brake booster operates on a vacuum created by the engine. There is a thick wall hose connecting the inlet manifold to the booster. The booster has a non return valve in it which allows a couple of pumps of the pedal in the event of the engine stalling. This should allow you to bring the car to a safe stop. You don't say if the brake pedal feels normal but the change in idle is caused by you operating the booster. My guess is that the air noise you can hear is a leak in the hose or the booster itself. This may require the assistance of a good DIY mechanic to determine which it is. Make sure you get the correct thick wall hose if its that, that is faulty, because any normal hose will be sucked flat by the vacuum and you will have no brakes!! Should the hose be OK and the booster be the noise you can hear then replacement is the only option. A quick call to a parts house with the vehicle details will soon tell you. If you think about it your car is 30 years old, pretty good going really.


It looks like the brake power booster is defective. A vacuum problem. You say it has standard breaks. Then the brake pedal lever is somehow interrupting a vacuum hose.

Some part of the brake linkage must be pressing on a vacuum hose. Check under dash as well as under hood.



2000 Nissan quest van the check engine light blinks on and off while driving

I have a 2000 Nissan quest van the check engine light blinks on and off while driving what could be the problem


It may need servicing and is letting you know that it is nearing a pre programmed service interval. It may be that an issue is in the process of developing and is giving you notice of it. I would consult a good independent to have them check it out before anything serious develops



check engine light p0325 knock sensor bank 1 or sensor closed loop bank 1 p0135 o2 sensor i bought the car with check engine light on i 've changed on of the o2 sensor and i did tun up on it but still the light still the code in the scanner reading the code in the top 


The PO325 knock sensor code is common on many Nissans, it doesn't bring on the Service Engine Soon if is performance related, it will bring on the light if the sensor goes open circuit.. These engines just always seem to have that code when you are presented with another trouble code, so go after the Oxygen Sensor related code first. The code P0135 is for the heater circuit control in the front O2 Sensor. If you still have the old O2 sensor check the electrical connector on the old sensor two of the wires should have continuity to each other (this is the heater circuit, if none of the wires at the connector have continuity the sensor is in fact defective but they sometimes go "open only when hot operating conditions). The electrical harness itself gives problems and failure occurs bringing on the Service Engine Soon light. Ignition key on you should have power (12V) at the disconnected O2 sensor harness. The computer grounds the sensor heater circuit as required. The problem may have to be fixed by "ohming" out the harness wires until the fault is found. I suspect by fixing the P0135 problem your service light will stay out once reset. The knock sensor is labor intensive to replace.


most check engine lights come on and stay on but, yours may have a warning flicker first--USUALLY it is just a pain the butt light that makes you bring it to the dealer,,,they are set at mileage intervals and when dealership or whomever replaces oil they RESET IT,,,but--if you want to try resetting it yourself (wont hurt anything-if it is something real will come on again after resetting it) Here is what you do... turn car off,,,press and hold TRIP reset if you have one and turn car to the position JUST BEFORE the start position and keep holding... you should see lights come on and then one by one go off OR your trip will have a series of dashes that decrease till there is none left... thats it ! if this does work and it is something wrong it will come back on,,,,in which case bring it to autozone or autostore and they will hook up the diagnostic and tell you for free what is bothering your car.



There are literally about 150 reasons why the check engine light could come on. Did the mechanic read the codes? It sounds like he is guessing at reasons. A blinking check engine light is the "second level" of check engine lights. If the light comes on, there is a problem, but if it blinks, there is a problem that immediately needs to be addressed or you risk damaging the catalytic convertor or other components. A leaky intake gasket is possible but I would consider other options first, like a throttle position sensor or 02 sensor.

Torque settings mains big ends head

Torque settings mains big ends head



Image result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends head


Image result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends head

Image result for Torque settings mains big ends head

Image result for Torque settings mains big ends head

Image result for Torque settings mains big ends head

Image result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends head

Image result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends head



Image result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends head

Image result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends head

Image result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends head



Image result for Torque settings mains big ends headImage result for Torque settings mains big ends head

2003 E46 320d Torque settings required

2003 E46 320d Torque settings required



Cylinder Head, Big ends and main bearings, Flywheel  2003 320d M47 engine.


Head bolts

1.40Nm
2. 80Nm
3 Slacken off 180 degrees
4. 50Nm
5 +90 degrees
6.+90 degress

On new head bolts...

Main bearings

1. 22Nm
2, +90 degrees

On new bolts...

Big ends

1. 5Nm
2. 20Nm +70 degrees

On new bolts....

Flywheel 105Nm