Pilot light issue
Vulcan convection oven has pilot lit and fan blows
The list of problems is as long as the one Obama inherited when he took over. Good news though, the most expensive part works, the blower motor! The pilot is established which rules out a gas issue. The two most common problems are, either the temp controller or the infinite switch is bad. Your unit has one or the other but, not both. Controller has several wires leading to it & has a green or tan circuit board on it, infinite switch is a small black or white 2 inch square box with 4 or 5 wires leading to it. Each one of these are mounted thru the front control panel & both have knobs. Temp board around $180, infinite switch around $45. As far as the schematic is concerned, Vulcan was bought by Hobart & they DO NOT give out schematics or service manuals.
How to light Oven Pilot for Magic Chef stove 31000 PAW
There is a cover plate that has two screws holding it down. Inspect the pilot area and you will see a hot surface igniter sitting right next to it.. That is what lights pilot and then the pilot lights main burner. You need a new igniter. Also do not touch any part of the hot surface igniter as human oil will shorten the life of part.
Oven will not light
Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system
The pilot light for the oven went out
Vulcan oven will not stay lit
I would take out the pilot and clean it up and see what happens,also look behind the unit and see if there's a gas regulator on the gas line,if so you will see a nut on it take it off with a pair of pliers and clean as well.that valve is actually the safety valve,when the pilot lights the flame impinges on the thermocouple and that sends a millivolt back to that valve in order to open.if none of these resolve your problem i would replace the thermocouple first as this is a cheap part and easy to put on.if you need a part # i can give it to you.let me know.
Roper gas oven won't work
I have a really old Roper gas oven. It has a spark ignitor. The range works fine, but when I try to use the oven it just keeps clicking. It is sparking down below, and so I tried manually lighting the pilot. The pilot stays lit, but it won't light the rest of the panel to heat up the oven/broiler. What do I need to do?
Replace the thermal coupling on the pilot make sure it is in the flame of the pilot it looks like a copper wire or tube if its bad it wont open the gas valve after the pilot heats it up
Delay in oven burner to light after pilot is lit
Oven is delayed in lighing after pilot is lit by sometimes 5 to 15 minutes. Also it seems the setting has to be over 350* for it to light. Up to this point oven has worked good, purchased in 1992.
Model number 2121XRA- serial #04C244745147
The upper stove top burners work fine it is just the oven that seems to delay longer all the time.
How Pilot Lights Work
If you have an older model furnace or water heater that uses natural gas, or if you have a set of gas logs in your fire place, you have probably seen the small blue flame known as the pilot light. You may even have been able to experience the thrill of relighting the pilot light when it goes out. Let's take a look at how the pilot light works.
The basic idea behind a pilot light is simple. Its purpose is to provide the flame needed to light the gas coming out of the main burner. When the furnace "turns on", a valve releases gas into the burner and the pilot light ignites that gas.
The way that a pilot light is created is also simple. It is made by allowing a small amount of gas to come from the gas pipe through a small tube. You light the gas escaping from the tube, and it burns all the time.
You can see, however, that the pilot light creates a potential safety problem. If the pilot light flame were to ever blow out, the gas would keep coming out of the pilot light tube. If this gas were to collect inside your house and then ignite, it would create an explosion. To solve this problem, the pilot light tube has a valve that cuts the gas to the pilot light in the event that it ever blows out.
This valve is actually a fascinating little piece of equipment. It has to be able to sense whether that pilot light is lit or not, and for safety reasons it needs to be able to do that without requiring any outside electricity. How can you create a pilot light sensor that works reliably over the course of many years without any electricity?
The answer to that question is ingenious. The way to do it is to use the heat of the pilot light flame to generate the electricity by using a thermocouple.
Thermocouples generate electricity directly from heat. They take advantage of an electrical effect that occurs at junctions between different metals. For example, take two iron wires and one copper wire. Twist one end of the copper wire and one end of one of the iron wires together. Do the same with the other end of the copper wire and the other iron wire. If you heat one of the twisted junctions with a flame and attach the two free iron wires to a volt meter, you will be able to measure a voltage.
In a pilot light, one of the junctions of a thermocouple is sitting in the pilot light's flame. The electricity that is created runs to a small electromagnetic valve and holds it open. If the pilot light blows out, the thermocouple quickly cools off. It stops generating electricity and the valve closes.
To relight the pilot light, you have to push a button that opens the value manually. Then you light the pilot light and wait for the thermocouple to heat up (about 30 seconds). Once it is hot, the thermocouple is generating the electricity needed to hold the value open. Then you can let go of the button.
The problem with pilot lights is that they waste a lot of gas. Therefore, most modern appliances do not have a pilot light. Instead, they use a piezoelectric spark to light the burner.
Pilot Light Problems
If your pilot light goes out numerous times throughout the year, it could mean that you have a problem that needs the attention of a professional HVAC contractor.
The burner in your gas furnace is ignited either by electronic ignition as found in most modern furnaces or with a standing pilot flame which common in older style furnaces less than 80% AFUE. The gas furnace standing pilot (flame is lit all the time) is sometimes referred to as a pilot light, but no matter what you call it, its purpose is to serve as a small ignition flame for the gas burner. And when this little flame fails to operate properly or go out, it's one of the most common reasons a gas furnace will fail to operate.
Some of the reasons your light may keep going out include:
A bad or loose thermocouple
A bad gas valve
A poor pilot flame - low gas pressure or blocked orifice
High winds or downdraft
A badly cracked heat exchanger
Improper venting
Flue or chimney problems
The most common reason for a pilot light to go out often is a nearby draft; you should rule this out as the cause by simply looking around to see if there is a new draft in the area of your system.
If your pilot light is on but has a weak, yellow flame, it means that it is not working well enough. A pilot light should be blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow — a sign that there is enough heat to warm your home. With a yellow flame, the furnace will not get hot enough to heat the thermocouple to the point where it triggersthe gas valve to open. If you have a propane flame, it should have a bluish-green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip.
The first step in troubleshooting your weak pilot flame is to rule out whether there is a draft that is weakening the flame. If this is not the problem, then you may need to adjust the flame. Follow safety precautions and your system's manufacturer's instructions for adjusting the flame. Usually this is pretty simple and you just need to turn a small screw. If this does not help, the problem could be a dirty pilot tube. For this, you should turn to an HVAC contractor — or if you feel skilled enough (and know all of the safety precautionstoo), then you can take a needle or small nail and gently clean the tube.
Troubleshooting a Gas Furnace - Furnace Repair
The Conventional Gas Furnace
The gas furnace is an appliance looking like a large box that does the following:
takes in cold air,
cleans it with an air filter,
heats it up with a gas burner using a steel heat exchanger,
distributes the warm air with a blower motor through your home's ductwork
The heated air then cools down in your home's various rooms and returns to the furnace through return air grills and ductwork.
The cold returning air enters back through the air filter into the furnace to complete another heating loop.
Sometimes there is a humidifier mounted on the furnace or the return air ductwork.
Furnaces come in different efficiencies measured in AFUE.
Once in a while things don't work quite right and you need to troubleshoot a gas furnace repair or relight a standing pilot if it has one. Conventional furnaces may have electronic ignitions which need special troubleshooting.
High efficiency condensing furnaces (90% AFUE and above) are a bit more complex than conventional furnaces. The main difference between a conventional and condensing furnace is the heat exchanger technology used to extract heat from the combustion process and the method used to exhaust the combustion gases. In these regards the furnaces are very different. The condensing furnace does not have a significantly more efficient combustion process than a conventional furnace. Both use gas burners with electronic ignition. The difference lies in that the condensing furnace has a more efficient heat extraction process after combustion.
Difference Between a Thermocouple and a Flame Sensor
A thermocouple is used on a standing pilot furnace (with a pilot light). An electronic ignition furnace (intermittent pilot or hot surface ignition) uses a flame sensor. The flame sensor and thermocouple both perform similar functions in that they both control the flow of gas from the gas valve.
The flame sensing rod can be straight or “L” shaped. In both cases the thermocouple or flame sensing rod are generally part of a pilot burner assembly and both connect to the gas valve or to the electronic control box.
Purchase a replacement thermocouple or flame sensing rod applicable to your particular furnace. Honeywell, White Rodgers and others make universal replacement thermocouples, (usually 30 millivolt (mV) ratings) for standing pilot furnaces. The length you see on the package, such as 24” or 30” is the lead length of the thermocouple.
The electronic flame sensor is a less universal part and you will need to get one specific to your model of furnace.
Replacing a Furnace Thermocouple or Electronic Flame Sensor
Thermocouple Replacement
Replacing a thermocouple is fairly easy if you follow these steps:
Shut off gas and power to the furnace.
Remove the furnace's access cover.
If the furnace has been running, wait 30 minutes or so until the thermocouple cools.
The end of the thermocouple is screwed into the gas control valve. Unscrew the nut that holds the thermocouple end fitting into the control valve.
The thermocouple is fastened to the standing pilot burner assembly bracket with a nut at the bottom of the bracket or a nut below and above the bracket. Unscrew the nut(s) and remove the thermocouple.
Connect the new thermocouple to the pilot burner assembly bracket.
Clean the threaded gas control valve opening and fasten the thermocouple end fitting to the gas control valve about 1/4 of a turn beyond where it feels tight by hand.
Turn on the gas and power to the furnace.
Turn on the pilot light and make sure about 1/2” of the thermocouple is in the pilot flame.
Replace furnace access cover.
Electronic Ignition Furnace
The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that allows more reliable performance than standing pilot furnaces, provides energy savings and contributes to better furnace efficiency (AFUE). With a standing pilot, found most commonly on older low efficiency furnaces (55% to 65% AFUE is not uncommon), a small gas flame is always burning and is known in the lexicon of American home repair as a "pilot light". The problem with this type of "analog" ignition is that it wastes energy by constantly burning gas and can sometimes be unreliable.
These issues have led to the development of electronic ignition systems for mid to high efficiency furnaces that exceed the U.S. government’s established minimum AFUE rating of 78%.
The electronic ignition occurs typically in one of two ways:
Intermittent Pilot, or
Hot Surface Ignition
The intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high voltage electrical spark to ignite the gas pilot and then subsequently the main burners, when the thermostat calls for heat.
The hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element not unlike a light bulb filament (and shown in the photo above), to ignite the gas burner.
It is important to understand some of the other components of a modern furnace that you will encounter depending on the type of high efficiency furnace you have. Why? Because they can also come into play in repairing an electronic ignition furnace when it won't run properly. Let's take a quick review of the types of furnace designs and components found in high efficiency furnaces using electronic ignition.
Pilot Light Problem
Turning off the electricity should not extinguish the pilot light. It sounds like you have a problem with the thermocouple - although I am no expert. The quote below explains a thermocouple.
Many gas-fed heating appliances like ovens and water heaters make use of a pilot light to ignite the main gas burner as required. If the pilot light becomes extinguished for any reason, there is the potential for uncombusted gas to be released into the surrounding area, thereby creating both risk of fire and a health hazard. To prevent such a danger, some appliances use a thermocouple to sense when the pilot light is burning. Specifically, the tip of a themocouple is placed in the pilot flame. This thermocouple electrically operates the gas supply valve responsible for feeding the pilot. So long as the pilot flame remains lit, the thermocouple remains hot and holds the pilot gas valve open. If the pilot light goes out, the temperature will fall along with a corresponding drop in electricity, removing power from the valve. Unpowered, the valve will then automatically shut off the gas, halting this unsafe condition.
Obviously a sealed CH system should not lose lots of water and it doesn't sound as if the small leak would account for the loss you are experiencing.
It is recommended that gas boilers are checked for safety annually, although this is not mandatory unless the property is rented.
had just the same problem,although mine was due to the electricity running out!! Our CH wouldnt work, and after taking the pump apart and talking to FIL for about an hour realised it was that the power cut had caused the boiler to "trip". I had to remove the bottom cover of the boiler and on the underside there was a tiny red button, i had to push it really hard, but this reset the boiler and now all is fine.
Troubleshooting Pilot Light Problems
A few simple steps can generally relight your pilot light, regardless of the appliance, but don't hesitate to call for professional help.
Whether it's a gas-powered stove or oven, or a gas-powered boiler, furnace or water heater, there's a pilot light involved. A pilot, being what it is (a tiny flame), will likely go out from time to time, even if there is nothing wrong with your system. After all, a brief interruption in gas flow or a stiff gust of air is about all it takes. That being said, a pilot shouldn't go out frequently, and if it does, you need to get a technician in to look for problems.
That being said, what should you do at first if the pilot goes out? Procedures vary depending on whether it's a stove top, oven or other appliance (like a boiler, furnace or water heater). Let's start with the easier ones: the stove and oven, then we'll move on to the more complex appliances. (If your appliance has instructions about relighting the pilot, follow them first and foremost; the advice below is general and may not apply to all units.)
STOVETOP PILOTS
* Turn the burner control knobs off.
* Remove the cooking grates and cooktop, if necessary.
* Find the pilot light ports and light each that is out with a match.
* Replace the grates and cooktop.
* Turn on the burners one at a time to make sure they are working now.
Pilot flames on stovetops should generally be 3/8 of an inch high. You can adjust the flame's height if you need to, though. Follow the pilot lot back from the pilot toward the oven control to find the adjustment screw. Turn the screw until your flame is the proper height.
OVEN PILOTS
* Turn the oven control knob off.
* Remove the broiler carriage.
* Light a match and hold it to the top forward section of the pilot.
* Put the broiler carriage back in place.
Generally speaking, there is no need (and no way) for you to adjust the pilot flame for an oven.
FURNACE/BOILER/WATER HEATER PILOTS
* Turn off the appliance, either at the thermostat or power switch.
* Locate the gas valve, which normally displays three positions ("on," "off" and "pilot"), and turn it to "pilot."
* Press the gas valve knob in to send gas to the burner.
* Hold a lighted match to the pilot burner. You may need a long match (such as those used for fireplaces) or may need to hold a shorter match with a pair of pliers to reach the burner.
* Light the pilot, but continue pressing in the gas valve knob for 30 to 60 seconds.
* Let go of the gas valve button.
* If the pilot doesn't stay lighted, try the process again once or twice more before exploring the possibility of other problems.
* If the pilot flame stays lighted, turn the gas valve knob to "on."
* Close the access panel.
* Turn the appliance back on at the thermostat or power switch.
If you have a spark ignition for the pilot, you won't need a lighted match. Instead, you need to push that ignition button, and you may need to do this several times if there is air in the line.
If your pilot light goes out more than once every season, there's a good chance you have a mechanical or other physical problem that needs to be fixed. The possibilities include (but are not limited to):
* A thermocouple that has gone bad or is loose
* A bad gas valve
* Low gas pressure or blockage that causes a poor flame
* A downdraft or high wind/air movement or some other sort
* Damaged heat exchanger
* Improper venting
* Problems with the flue or chimney
* You're out of fuel (it may sound obvious, but people often forget this possibility)
Water Heater Pilot Light
A water heater pilot light is used to ignite the gas that heats the water. You may go for a long time and not realize that your pilot light has been faithfully serving you.
When the pilot light stops working you do not have hot water. Then you notice. A malfunctioning pilot light may be a sign of another problem. It could be that it just needs to be lit again.
Water Heater Pilot Light - Information
What Can You Save?
A serviceman that comes out will likely tell you your problem is a defective thermocouple. The bill for replacing it will be between $125 and $150. Up selling you to a new water heater is also a possibility. Plan on $800 to $1,500 if that happens.
How Hard Could It Be?
Lighting a water heater pilot light is not that hard. It should take less than ten minutes.
These repairs will have a Difficulty Level of: Simple
These repairs require a Skill Level of: Job Jar Specialist
Check the Simple Things!
You're at the simplest problem you can have with a gas hot water heater. Sorry, there is nothing easier.
What Can Go Wrong?
A pilot light that won't stay lit may be indicative of a more serious problem. You will be without hot water if you cannot fix it. You can get a lot of complaining when this happens.
Water Heater Pilot Light – The Steps Involved
There are two types of pilot lights that you may need to deal with. The older style that requires a match to light it. Then there are the newer ones that have an ignitor. Some high efficiency hot water heaters use and electronic ignition and do not have a pilot light. They don't have a pilot light at all.
Gas water heaters are equipped with a thermocouple. The thermocouple senses when the pilot light is lit. When the thermocouple goes bad it will not send the right signals to the gas valve. When that happens the gas valve will turn off and the burner will night light. Additionally the water heater pilot light will go out.
Does the pilot light refuse to stay lit? There is a good chance you have a bad thermocouple.
Troubleshooting Problems with the Pilot Light of Your Natural Gas Furnace
Every natural gas furnace contains a pilot light which is there to ignite the gas burner. This component of the furnace must be on for the unit itself to be running. Troubleshooting problems with your pilot light is not necessarily difficult. Simply follow the guide below for helpful tips.
Understand Your Pilot Light
Before you can troubleshoot anything, you have to know what is going on in the first place. There is a component of the natural gas furnace called the thermocouple, and it acts as a sensor for the pilot light to determine if the heat coming from the burner is enough to handle the burning fuel from the burner. If the pilot is not producing enough heat, then it shuts off the gas valve. This is all necessary to prevent gas from leaking into your home and causing fires beyond where they need to be. In short, if the pilot light goes off, the furnace ceases production.
Prepare to Relight the Pilot Light
Assuming that the pilot light is out, you have to relight it. There are slight variations on how to do this from one furnace or another. To be on the safe side, check your instruction manual or the instructions listed on the furnace door for specifics about your unit. For the purposes of this guide, we will assume that you have a standing pilot light (one that remains lit at all times)
Relight the Pilot Light
Once you have reviewed the instructions for your unit, you will need to turn your thermostat to "Heat" and crank it up to 80 degrees to get it going. Find the pilot valve on your furnace and find the box the knob with the on/off options. Turn that knob to "Off". Find the pilot light near the gas burner tubes. Use a long match or lighter to ignite the flame. Do so by setting the knob or reset button from "Off" to "Pilot" Hold the lit match or lighter up to the pilot and depress the knob or button for 30 seconds. On th pilot remains lit, turn the knob or button to "On".
If the Relight Does Not Work
First try to wait a few minutes and then repeat the procedure above. Use a time of 60 seconds instead to ensure that the thermocouple has enough time to get hot. If that doesn't solve the problem, proceed onto other troubleshooting techniques.
If the Pilot Does Not Stay Lit
If you find that the pilot light does not remain lit after re-ignition, you likely have a problem with your thermocouple. Consult with your instruction manual once again to find out how to replace that unit. Then relight and test accordingly.
If the Flame is Irregular
If you have a faint or irregular flame coming out of your natural gas furnace, you may need to be adjusted. The flame should be blue, not yellow. If it is not the right color, then it means it's not the right temperature and could be sending bad signals to the thermocouple. Find the screw for your pilot made to adjust the flame. Follow your instruction manual to determine how to set it.
Other Problems
If you notice your flame is flickering, you likely have a draft issue. If there is a spitting motion coming out, there may be dirt in the tubes. You can clean this out with a small nail.
1. With the engine running, does the compressor clutch engage when the A/C is switched on? If it does not, this usually indicates a low (or empty) refrigerant condition, or an electrical problem. Also, listen for rapid clicking or cycling noises at the compressor when the A/C is switched on. If this is happening, it could also indicate low refrigerant or some other problems. Have it checked by your service technician. (Note: Some A/C systems prevent compressor clutch engagement in low temperatures, typically at or below 40° F.)
