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Sunday, 20 June 2021

Orifice tube location on 91 Chevy silverado

 Where is the orifice tube on a 1991 chevy silverado

Since about mid-year 1991, the orifice will be in the lower line on the condenser, so you'll have to remove the grille to access it.

Early 1991-back to 1988, it was in the lower line off the evaporator.
The orifice tube restricts the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator. This restriction allows high pressure liquid Freon to change into low pressure Freon before entering the evaporator. The orifice tube is located inside the hose running between the condenser and the evaporator. You'll need an orifice tube removal kit if you are looking to remove it.


Its not that cut and dried, First you will need the refrigerant recovered, then take the old one out. It should be in the small line entering the evaporator. Take it out, if there is metal shavings on it, then you need to replace the compressor and flush the condenser, or replace the condenser. the short end (looking at the o-ring) goes in towards the rear of the car. Then you will need sit evacuated with a vacuum pump and recharged with the proper amount of refrigerant and oil. Its really a job for a A/C shop.

Click the link below to view the exact location


The "O" tube does not wear out or need replacing unless the compressor has failed and there is metal in the system. That being said this is the location and procedure to replace the "O" tube



REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

Discharge and recover refrigerant from the system.
Right turn signal and park lamp assembly.
Grille retaining screws.
Grille.
Evaporator tube (75) and O-ring (76) from condenser (5).
Expansion tube (3).
INSTALL OR CONNECT

Expansion tube (3).
Evaporator tube (75) and new O-ring (76) to condenser (5).Tighten;
Evaporator tube (75) to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .
Grille.
Grille retaining screws.
Right turn signal and park lamp assembly.
Refrigerant to the system.
Check the system for leaks.


As I remember the orifice tube on your 1992 GMC pick up is behind the front grill at one of the condenser fittings. The grill is not that hard to remove. You must remove the park light assemblies to access screws behind them. There are other screws located across the top and in the center. Look carefully to find them all. There are also some clips along the bottom to release. Once you start looking it will all make sense. Before removing the grill look for a wide spot in one of the ac lines so that you can be fairly sure that is were the orifice tube goes.

Saturday, 5 June 2021

Saab 9-3 common problems

 List of Most Common Problems with the Saab 9-3


The Saab 9-3 is a popular, high quality executive car. If you like efficient motoring that puts a lot of power underneath the pedal, then this is a great place to start. Originally unleashed on the motoring public back in 1998, various iterations of the vehicle have featured a range of power systems including 1.8t BioPower and 2.8T V6 Diesel engines.

After the success of the Saab 900 and subsequent growth of the company through the late 90′, our favorite car company came out with a completely new car in 2003, as a continuation of the 9-3 name. Commonly referred to as the Sport Sedan, 9-3ss, or 9440 chassis (as opposed to the outgoing 9400 body style), these cars are coming down pretty sharply in price. Because of that, like the Saab 9-5, it is possible to buy a fantastic car for pennies on the dollar (we picked up a running 9-3ss for our next race car for $500).
You should be able to find a good selection of Saab 9-3s available on the second hand market when looking for a used car. This solid car is a great choice for reliable motoring and with special editions like the Viggen still kicking around, you can even find something a little more collectible within the range.
 However, like most cars bottoming out in value, it’s important to keep an eye out for the top 10 most common Saab 9-3 problems.

For Newer model vehicles ,General Motors had a heavy hand when managing Saab’s design and building oversight on this project, which means you will see an increased amount of GM parts-bin sourced components. This is especially noticeable in areas such as switch packs, stereo equipment, and materials used both on the interior, exterior, and engine bay. The chassis is a reworked GM Epsilon platform, roughly shared with a few other GM cars. In 2007 the interior was updated, and in 2008 the 9-3s underwent an external facelift, with many newly designed parts added with both.It’s always advisable to be cautious when purchasing any second hand car – and with our common problems guide you can stay alert to some of the most prevalent issues affecting the Saab 9-3.

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN NEWER AND OLD MODEL SAAB DESIGN AND FEATURES

The 2.0 4 cylinder is a GM Ecotec unit that is also used in tons of other applications. That’s not to say this is not a Saab engine, as engineers in Sweden had their hands all over it during the design phase. Additions include the use of Saab’s Ion sensing Trionic system, updated internal materials, block casting processes, valvetrain updates, and a revised cylinder head. This version of Trionic (8 in this case) differs from T5 and T7 because the ion sensing module is a separate unit instead of being built into the direct ignition cassette. This allows for money-saving individual ignition coils instead of a complicated coil pack. Two turbos were offered, a small Garret GT2052s and a larger TD04 for Arc and Aero models.

Since this run of cars is so comprehensive, and so many changes were made over models, we will focus on the most popular 2003-2007 9-3 with the 2.0 engine. Many of these will still translate; however, there are some differences in later facelifted cars, as well as vehicles equipped with the V6 engine. So now that you have the rundown of the car itself, here’s a list of common failure points to keep an eye out for when shopping for one of these cars in no particular order.

Key Not Recognized, Haywire Turn Signals, Wipers, Cruise Control, or Lost all Keys

KEYLESS ENTRY


The Central Integrated Module, or CIM, is a very complicated computerized device in the steering column that has a lot of control over your car’s systems. A few of those systems include verifying your key chips, controlling your wiper transmission, cruise control, steering angle sensor, as well as housing the clock springs for the turn signals.

The keys stop working altogether (or you lost them), that’s a bad thing, and you will probably need a new CIM.
If the other systems listed above are acting super weird, first swap your battery for a new one to make sure everything is getting the right voltage.
You did all of this and still have no change, you may be looking to replace the CIM. The Central Integrated Module requires a dealer program to divorce from and marry to the computer, so don’t start pulling these things apart yourself without a TechII and some training.
Also, do NOT pull out the red clip, no matter how tempting it is. If you pull that out without the unit installed in the car and the wheels in the proper direction, you will brick the module, and it is not cheap. We, of course, will NOT refund sprung CIMs.

Bulkhead


When out on the road try some full lock steering movements. Do you hear a clicking noise when the wheel is turned to its full potential? If so, then you could be looking at a problem with the bulkhead, which is caused by a mounting system that connects this part to the steering rack. Another tell-tale sign of this issue is vague and slightly unresponsive steering. Avoid any vehicle exhibiting these symptoms.

SAAB 9-3 Door Locks Won’t Function (Door Locks)

This one is particularly annoying. You go to unlock your car, hear it unlock, walk up to pull the handle, and PSYCH, that door is still locked. You look around and notice only 3 of the 4 locks actuated, leaving you to walk around and use the other door to get into the car. If it’s the driver’s side door lock, I suspect you will waste no time in replacing it. Luckily we sell enough of these in Genuine Saab to keep in stock. Many 9-3ss owners will replace a door lock assembly at some point, so prepare yourself and be happy that these parts are available (and at a reasonable price too!). Watch out for the VIN split in 2005, as the design changed midway through the year, and you must know when your car was produced to get the right lock.

SAAB 9-3 Fuel Gauge Reading Empty (Fuel Level Sensor)

It is fairly common to be driving, and witness your fuel gauge suddenly drop to zero. Although this does not affect the drivability of the car, it can be a somewhat frustrating problem .The issue is related to a sensor on the fuel pump, which is prone to failure, resulting in a lost signal and an empty fuel reading. The part in question is attached to the fuel pump, but it is available for buying separately. It fits all 9-3ss models.

However, if your car is past HUNDRED K miles on the stock fuel pump since you have to drop the tank to do the job, we recommend changing the entire fuel pump unit out with a new TI Automotive one, formally known as Walbro. The fuel pump assembly has the fuel level sensor built-in.

9-3 Hesitation, Surging, and Rough Idle (Electronic Throttle Body)

Like nearly all modern cars, the 9-3ss uses an electronic throttle body that is prone to failure.  The throttle body has a rotating ‘butterfly’ plate inside that controls the volume of airflow into the engine, and is controlled electronically via the throttle-by-wire system and the computer inputs.  This means that the computer is in control to more effectively control the engine based on what it thinks you want it to do.

Clutch Pedal Won’t Return Up

This is a common problem that will almost surely manifest itself at some point on all manual transmission cars. If your clutch pedal isn’t returning back up, relax. You can still drive the car, and it will just feel super weird until you get under there and replace the helper spring and associated clips. 

Generally, people replace the whole thing (It’s not too expensive), but usually, the clip on it is what breaks, and this can be replaced by itself. 

Cooler Oil Leaks

Get under the hood and take a look at your potential purchase’s coolant. You are looking for signs of oil contamination. There is a well-known issue with Saab 9-3s where leaks can occur between the lubrication and cooling systems due to the chain powered design of the water pump. This issue is one of the more expensive on our list to fix and is definitely one that should make you think twice about parting with your money.

Hood

Fancy a bit of air out on the open road? Convertibles are great for those who love free and easy motoring in the summer. The Saab 9-3 convertible is a good buy that holds its value well but you want to make sure the hood is the full ticket. Raise and lower it a couple of times to ensure it’s in good working order and do the Sherlock Holmes bit and scour the surface for leaks, rips and damage.

However, when these electronics fail inside the throttle body, latency and tolerances increase in operation causing hesitation, surging, and rough idle.  If you are encountering a rough idle, try cleaning the throttle body before replacing it.  A GM dealer TechII scan tool may be required to calibrate the ETB when replacing.  Don’t forget a new gasket!

SAAB 9-3 Seatbelt Won’t Retract

A saggy seatbelt isn’t just annoying, it’s unsafe.  Saab issued a recall awhile ago (and took their time about fixing it), but lately we have been selling a lot of seatbelt tensioners that pick up the slack in the assembly.

If you have a saggy belt, first check to make sure the belt isn’t binding up near the slot where it comes out of the B-Pillar trim.  If it moves free and clean, something inside the tensioner might be broken, requiring immediate replacement.  We have these in stock to get you back on the road as soon as possible.

9-3 Clicking Noise In-Dash (Recirculation Motor)

Behind the glovebox is a series of motors that control the HVAC system, one of them is the re-circulation flap motor that opens and closes the vent to use outside air. Inside these little motor, assemblies are a series of small plastic gears that tend to lose more teeth than an aging boxer. This has two outcomes. The first is a very annoying clicking sound around the glovebox area. The second is the flap operation degraded, and you may lose your recirculation feature on your AC.

Interior Heating

Heater controlsBelieve it or not one of the most common issues with the Saab 9-3 is with the heating system. However, we’re not talking about deep faults within the air conditioning unit, but rather structural problems with the dial controls and knobs. These are known to easily crack off and split. Fortunately they cost less than £10 each to repair, so don’t let the heating controls, or lack thereof, put you off a purchase.

If this is going on, you have two options. The first is to take apart the assembly, and if you’re lucky, the missing teeth will only be on one part of the gear. You can remove the gear and re-clock it since only a small section of the gear actually comes in contact with the other gears. The second option is to simply pop in a new one and be done with it.

9-3 Peeling buttons (Climate Control Button Set)

The Saab 9-3 is supposed to be an upscale car, but when all the buttons on the climate control panel are peeling and cracking away, it sure doesn’t feel like it. Luckily these button sets are available in Genuine Saab and aren’t too complicated to change. We have two sets, one for cars with heated seats and one for vehicles without heated seats. Don’t stare at these anymore, spend the little extra on this cosmetic fix, and get back to appreciating the interior of your car. Just remember that it may look like the box is filled in packing material, but there are actually three loose buttons wrapped up in there, so don’t call us saying that you didn’t get the other buttons, they were in there, and we know you threw them away. Time to start dumpster diving!

Oil Sludge

Thinking of buying a petrol powered 9-3? If the previous owner of this Saab has not been keeping up with regular services or has used thicker oil than is stipulated in the owner’s manual then sludge can build up rapidly in the engine. Check the service history to make sure the owner has been on the ball or you could experience costly problems with the balancer shaft further on down the line.

Coolant Leaks (Water Pump)

This is a dreaded failure that most 2.0 4cylinder Ecotec (Saab B207) engines will encounter. The water pump is a strange design, driven off a chain in the timing cover rather than on the outside of the engine with a belt. This seems like it would be more of a robust design, but more often than not, you will find yourself having to replace the water pump without gobs of miles on the odometer.
You can postpone the failure and leakage of the pump by changing the coolant at regular intervals, but generally assume this to be an inevitability. To change it, you need a special tool to lock the gear in place. That way, you can undo the bolts on the gear and take the pump out on the other side of the bracket. If for some reason, the gear has excessive wear on it, you can buy the Genuine Saab version, which comes with the gear.

SAAB 9-3 Binding Steering and Popping Noise From Suspension (Broken Coil Springs)

Broken suspension springs are a common problem in new-gen 9-3’s, and are something to keep an eye out for. For whatever reason, the springs snap near the perch, causing a knocking/popping noise. You will notice a definite change in the way the car drives at that point, and you should see the corner with the broken spring will be sagging lower than the others.

IGNITION SWITCH MODULE


Strut Mounts

Listen out for a grinding noise on your test drive. Do you hear unpleasant grinding noises and squeaks, particularly as you’re going round corners? The likely culprit in this scenario are the mounts and bearings at the top of the McPherson struts in the suspension system. If the car has more than 100K miles on the clock then it could still be worth buying and replacing all the suspension struts, if the seller is willing to give you a good enough discount.

If you want a quality car that impresses and imposes on the road then the Saab 9-3 is definitely not a bad selection. Later models improved the crash worthiness and saw extensive pillar reinforcements and airbags adding to the vehicle’s safety credentials. If you want to do a lot of miles on the road, and you want the comfort and power to get there feeling great, then this is definitely one to strongly consider.

Luckily, it’s easy to check out the problem since a broken spring will be quite obvious upon visual inspection and easy enough to fix with the right set of tools. We have a wide variety of SAAB 9-3 suspension springs available, so it’s important that if you have a broken spring, to look at the paint markings on the spring. 


Friday, 4 June 2021

OIL LEAK FROM VALVE COVER

 After replacing the oil seals, oil started coming our from the valve cover ventilation

Excessive oil consumption and leak


The tell-tale sign of a valve cover gasket that has lost its seal is an oil-covered valve cover or a burning oil smell when the engine is running. As oil leaks from a valve cover, it can contact a hot exhaust manifold and burn. A valve cover can leak oil while the engine is running, but not while the engine is at rest.


What causes oil to leak from a crankcase through an air filter


The oil doesn't leak from the air filter rather it would be right if we call it from the crankcase this is intentionally done so as to release excess pressure from the crankcase because of blow by that allows exhaust gases to seep through piston ring gaps it continuously fills up the crankcase with huge amount of exhaust gases and at a high pressure and this must be released somewhere either in the atmosphere or right in the cylinders so that they can be burned so engineers decided to burn them right in the cylinders because venting it outside will be harmful to atmosphere so they are purged into the cylinders. Technically it is known as pcv positive crankcase ventilation where there are two hoses one is connected to the air box (after air filter) and the crankcase to get the crankcase fresh air and it's called breather hose the other hose called pcv is connected to the crankcase and the vacuum of the engine just after throttle body (moving from air filter) in case of a petrol engine.


Oil leak on the hose which came form valve cover to air intake 

The leak starts after changing air filter

PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is blowing by and causing engine oil to go through the PCV tube.  I recommend replacing the PCV valve and clean out the tube. Then every time you have an oil change, I recommend replacing the PCV valve to prevent any more oil consumption and leakage. If you need further assistance with the oil getting on the air filter.
The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve works to evacuate gas from the crankcase of the engine. The PCV valve directs these gases back into the combustion chambers via the intake manifold. This plays a large role in engine efficiency, improving emissions and the overall operation of your vehicle. A bad PCV valve will affect the performance of your vehicle, so there are a few signs to watch out for before the valve completely fails:

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve

A bad PCV valve may have a leak, which will cause excessive oil consumption. In addition, you may also notice oil leaking through the seals and dripping on to the floor of your garage. This is because the pressure in the crankcase may increase when the PCV valve fails, so the oil is pushed out through the seals and gaskets since there's no other way for the pressure to be released. The leak will cause your vehicle to burn oil and leak oil beneath your vehicle. If you notice either of these, consult a professional mechanic to have your PCV valve replaced.

Thursday, 3 June 2021

MUSTANG FUSE AND RELAY DETAILS

 FORD MUSTANG FUSE AND RELAY DIAGRAM


see if this helps:

 

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1988 Lincoln Town Car FUSE BOX DIAGRAM

 1988 Lincoln fuse box diagram..gauges..cluster


I have your diagram graphicgraphicgraphicgraphicgraphicgraphicgraphicgraphic

2002 TOYOTA 4runner fuel injection relay (EFI relay) or the starter relay

TOYOTA FUEL INJECTION RELAY / STARTER RELAY LOCATION DIAGRAM


you could pull the fuel injection relay (EFI relay) or the starter relay for example. Here's' a diagram that shows both, in the fuse/relay box under the hood:

 

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Ford Explorer Xlt Fuse Box Diagram

 FORD EXPLORER FUSE BOX DIAGRAM

FORD EXPLORER FUSE BOX

Volkswagen Jetta TDI fuse box diagram

 Volkswagen Jetta TDI fuse box diagram


2006 jetta tdi


VW JETTA FUSE BOX


1995 chevy silverado 350 5.7L firing order diagram

 CHEVY SILVERADO FIRING ORDER DIAGRAM


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Here is the firing order diagram for that engine and vehicle.


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2003 crown Victoria fuse box diagram - 2003 Ford Crown Victoria

 FORD CROWN VICTORIA FUSE BOX DIAGRAM


Here is the information you needed. I hope it helps and good luck....

2003 crown victoria fuse box diagram - 11_5_2011_8_41_38_am.jpg




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Fuse box diagram for 2006 ford escape - Escape Ford Cars & Trucks

 FORD ESCAPE FUSE BOX DIAGRAM AND FUSE BOX LOCATION


There are 2 places that have fuses.


SEE THE LOCATION BELOW  here the are.



































Where are the fuse boxes on subaru - 1996 Subaru Impreza

 subaru impreza fuse box


There are two fuse boxs: under the dashboard on the drivers side on the extreme left side and there are fuses in the engine compartment on drivers side including: relay switches, signals and lighting.Where are the fuse boxes on subaru - 5_19_2012_9_30_43_am.jpg

keurig 2.0 touch screen power button not working

 Keurig  coffee maker Troubleshooting:


The problem with the touchscreen not responding, is caused by dirt/coffee residue, getting under the bezel around the screen. Sometimes a tissue soaked in Windex, then polished with a dry one , will temporarily remedy this. The only permanent fix is to disassemble the head, remove the lcd screen and clean it thoroughly, as well as under the bezel.


If your Keurig 2.0 display is blank, try unplugging the brewer and plugging it back on. See if the issue is resolved. If your Keurig 2.0 touch screen is still cold towards you, get ready for some troubleshooting.


Step 1: Plug in your Keurig 2.0. The power icon should be at the bottom left of the display.

 If nothing shows, follow our section ‘My Keurig Won’t Turn On’.

If you can see the Power button, turn it on and proceed to Step 2.

Step 2: Go to “Menu” and proceed to set the clock.

Step 3: Navigate yourself through the “Menu” and try to set all the menu options.

Step 4: When you reach the “Lift to Begin” screen, lift the handle then lower it down.

Step 5: If the brewer shows signs of beginning to start a brew, your troubleshooting is successful.

igloo ice maker ice full sensor

 Igloo ice maker icefull light stays on

If the igloo ice maker icefull light stays on, that means 


The hard water had covered the infrared source and/or receiver. They are opposing black and transparent 3mm circles on the left and right wall when you look inside your icemaker. They are supposed to detect if ice cubes pile up so high that they disrupt the direct liner of view between those 2 dots.
Just clean them with a wet acidic solution to clean of the hardness, e.g. use vinegar or lemon juice.This process will help to get icefull light off.

Also you can try this simple trick if the above process is not helping

1. turn machine on . 2. press the select button for 10 sec. then 3. press the power button for 10 sec. and then turn off the machine and unplug it for 6 hours.


Make sure the small emitter that sends a beam through the ice bucket to read ice height is not blocked or dirty.