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Monday, 20 November 2023

How to remove fuel rails on 1999 v10 6.8

 FORD FUEL RAIL REMOVAL PROCEDURE WITH DIAGRAMS


Fuel Injection Rail Replacement Ford Super Duty 1999-2007


The fuel rail on a 6.8L is a little easier so I am attaching the process below. There are going to be some similarities so watching that video is good info just not exact steps for your vehicle.

Please see the attached info and let us know if you need more detail. This is for the non-biofuel so let me know if you have the biofuel engine and I can attach that as well but that is a rare engine.




























IF YOU HELP ON HOW TO REPLACE FUEL FILTER PLEASE CLICK THE LINK BELOW

How to change a fuel filter on a 2000 ford excursion



How to change a fuel filter on a 2000 ford excursion

2000 ford excursion FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT



The fuel filter is located along the LH frame rail. Here is a guide to help walk you through the steps with diagrams below to show you how on your car.




the filter is either along the frame rail or near the fuel tank on a 2000. Based on which filter you have, the fuel lines will either unbolt or it will have a quick connect. The quick connect requires that you push in on the fitting and remove a plastic clip to remove the line.

HOW TO REPLACE A FUEL FILTER

fuel filter replacement

A fuel filter is designed to remove partials and contaminants from the fuel before they enter the fuel injection system. Most cars have one or two filters, the primary filter is located in the fuel tank attached to the inlet of the fuel pump and can sometimes be called a strainer. The secondary filter is located on the fuel pressure line headed from the tank to the engine and more specifically the fuel rail.

WHAT GOES WRONG?

As with any filter when the capacity of the membrane is exceeded it diminishes flow capabilities. Restricted fuel pressure/flow equates to engine runnability problems such as low power, hesitation and hard starting.

Fuel filter

  • Can clog causing low engine performance
  • Is located at the inlet of the fuel pump or inline
  • Removes particles from the fuel system
  • May need a special tool to remove
  • Is part of an engine tune up
  • May cause the fuel pump to go out.

WHERE IS IT?

The strainer or primary fuel filter is located the fuel tank attached to the inlet of the fuel pump. Some manufactures design a tap door to access the filter while others designed require the fuel tank to be removed. This filter is considered to be lifetime although it rarely makes it that long. Secondary filters have gone by the wayside in most cars and some trucks. If your car has one it will be located by the engine compartment or under the car on the frame or sub frame rail on the driver's side, or near the fuel tank. Diesel powered vehicles have multiple filters which act as a water separator that must be changed regularly. (Need to know where a filter is ask us).

WHAT'S THE COST?

The cost of a fuel filter will range from $15.00 to $35.00 in most cases, diesel fuel filters can run a little more. Labor for the job can vary greatly depending on the filter location.

LET'S GET STARTED

It's a good idea to use rubber/vinyl gloves and safety goggles when working with fuel. Inside the fuel system there can be residual pressure which will be relieved when disconnecting the fuel pressure line from the filter. Be ready to control dripping fuel with a small container and/or shop towels.

Lifting your car maybe necessary to access the filter, use a jack and jack stands for safety.

Use a line removal tool, line wrenches or hose clamp and loosen the fuel lines from the filter. Then remove the mounting clamp or bolts to free the filter from the vehicle.

Finishes removing the fuel lines keeping mind fuel will leak out.

Match the old fuel filter to the new filter and install. Most fuel filters will have a directional arrow which must point toward the engine.

Primary filter replacement requires the tank to be removed in some cases and is the same job as replacing the fuel pump.

When starting the engine for the first time after filter replacement cycle the ignition key on without cranking the engine. This will fill the fuel filter and help pressurize the fuel rail. It might take a couple of tries to get the engine started.

Check the fuel system and filter for leaks.

LET'S SEE!

Release or remove the fuel lines, fuel may drip out be ready with a small container or shop towel.

installing fuel line release tool

Remove the fuel filter mount.

release fuel filter

Once released pull the fuel line away from the filter, small amount of fuel will leak when line is removed, match and reinstall the new filter.



Over drive light on/off problem

 O/D LIGHT TURNING ON AND OFF 

OVER DRIVE LIGHT ISSUE IN MY CAR

What Does O/D Off Light Mean?

Vehicles with Automatic transmission  have the Overdrive (O/D) function which allows a driver to drive faster or with high speed on the road. Out of all the gears the o/d is the highest gear in an automatic transmission. The overdrive function reduces the engine’s revolutions per minute (RPM) down to a certain speed to aid in acceleration and make the vehicle more fuel-efficient.


Many car drivers often mistake the o/d off state when the light is off, but the opposite is when its indicator light is on. Let’s find out the difference between when the overdrive function light is on or not and its meaning.

What Does O/D Off Mean In A Car?

Now understand this first. The o/d signifies the top gear or gears in a car’s transmission. The o/d off button allows you to prevent an automatic message from shifting into those top gears in certain situations, such as when driving through rough hills, going down steep terrain, and hauling a heavy load or trailer.


When the overdrive gets turned off, the car will not allow the transmission to operate in the highest gear but limits it to a lower gear to increase friction to ensure safety and save fuel.

Simply put, when the default o/d function is OFF (the indicator light is on the dashboard), all gears in the transmission are in use. Still, when the indicator light is off, this means your vehicle is setting the overdrive On state to allow you to accelerate over the limit again.

When turning the overdrive OFF, you need to control the transmission so as not to switch to the highest gear, but only up to the level with a 1:1 gear ratio to stop.

Now If you notice Overdrive light flashes after hard shift from first to second gear.


This sounds like you have a shaft speed sensor that is out. Does the speedometer work? If not here is the location of the vehicle speed sensor.

see images below to locate speed sensor on your vehicle



If you hear a grind when it shifts, you do have a tranny problem, the lean condition can be any type of vacuum leak that allows unmetered air into the intake manifold, or a weak fuel pump.



How To Use Overdrive Switch or Button?

Before enabling or disabling overdrive, you should carefully identify the situations in which you might use it. This switch will stay open by default unless turned off. 

As a result, the driver can achieve a reasonable speed both in high-speed driving and on normal roads. The efficient use of this function will help prolong the life of your car’s engine and put less strain on the powertrain.

How To Turn Off The Overdrive(O/D)?

Although the overdrive function gets used when driving in rough terrains, the overdrive should get turned off in such a situation. For instance, if you are driving up a hill or downhill or the road is bumpy, this feature has to get disabled.

The vehicle manufacturer will design an o/d off button or switch on the gear lever, and this indicator light should be observed. If the light does not come on, this function is active.

In other vehicles with this pre-designed button, your task is to simply press the off button. Meanwhile, with non-engineered cars, you need to manually select a lower gear to perform the turn-off overdrive operation.

Vehicles with automatic transmissions with manual gear shifts and those with paddle shifters can switch to a lower gear to disable the overdrive function.

When The O/D Off Indicator Flashes

If the overdrive indicator light flashes, the o/d function has to get disabled. Note that when the indicator light is on, the o/d is off, and when the light is off, this means the overdrive feature is on.

Some problems that include damaged control solenoid valves, automatic fluid leakage, or automatic fluid blockage during exchange can cause the overdrive indicator light to blink.

When To Turn Off Overdrive

As a driver when there is no need to accelerate, the overdrive function should be turned off. Also, when driving up a hill or downhill, the overdrive function may lose its effectiveness.

When shifting to a lower gear, turn the overdrive feature off. Your car will then immediately shift gears, and this would give the driver better control of the engine brake and gear shifts more effectively.

Summary

The O/D off button allows you to prevent an automatic message from shifting into those top gears in certain situations, such as when driving through rough hills, going down steep terrain, and hauling a heavy load or trailer.

When the overdrive gets turned off, the car will not allow the transmission to operate in the highest gear but limits it to a lower gear to increase friction to ensure safety and save fuel.

Before enabling or disabling overdrive, you should carefully identify the situations in which you might use it. This switch will stay open by default unless turned off. Although the overdrive function gets used when driving in rough terrains, the overdrive should get turned off in such a situation.

If the overdrive indicator light flashes, the o/d function has to get disabled. Note that when the indicator light is on, the o/d is off, and when the light is off, this means the overdrive feature is on. When shifting to a lower gear, turn the overdrive feature off. Your car will then immediately shift gears, and this would give the driver better control of the engine brake and gear shift more effectively.


Sunday, 20 June 2021

Orifice tube location on 91 Chevy silverado

 Where is the orifice tube on a 1991 chevy silverado

Since about mid-year 1991, the orifice will be in the lower line on the condenser, so you'll have to remove the grille to access it.

Early 1991-back to 1988, it was in the lower line off the evaporator.
The orifice tube restricts the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator. This restriction allows high pressure liquid Freon to change into low pressure Freon before entering the evaporator. The orifice tube is located inside the hose running between the condenser and the evaporator. You'll need an orifice tube removal kit if you are looking to remove it.


Its not that cut and dried, First you will need the refrigerant recovered, then take the old one out. It should be in the small line entering the evaporator. Take it out, if there is metal shavings on it, then you need to replace the compressor and flush the condenser, or replace the condenser. the short end (looking at the o-ring) goes in towards the rear of the car. Then you will need sit evacuated with a vacuum pump and recharged with the proper amount of refrigerant and oil. Its really a job for a A/C shop.

Click the link below to view the exact location


The "O" tube does not wear out or need replacing unless the compressor has failed and there is metal in the system. That being said this is the location and procedure to replace the "O" tube



REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

Discharge and recover refrigerant from the system.
Right turn signal and park lamp assembly.
Grille retaining screws.
Grille.
Evaporator tube (75) and O-ring (76) from condenser (5).
Expansion tube (3).
INSTALL OR CONNECT

Expansion tube (3).
Evaporator tube (75) and new O-ring (76) to condenser (5).Tighten;
Evaporator tube (75) to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .
Grille.
Grille retaining screws.
Right turn signal and park lamp assembly.
Refrigerant to the system.
Check the system for leaks.


As I remember the orifice tube on your 1992 GMC pick up is behind the front grill at one of the condenser fittings. The grill is not that hard to remove. You must remove the park light assemblies to access screws behind them. There are other screws located across the top and in the center. Look carefully to find them all. There are also some clips along the bottom to release. Once you start looking it will all make sense. Before removing the grill look for a wide spot in one of the ac lines so that you can be fairly sure that is were the orifice tube goes.

Saturday, 5 June 2021

Saab 9-3 common problems

 List of Most Common Problems with the Saab 9-3


The Saab 9-3 is a popular, high quality executive car. If you like efficient motoring that puts a lot of power underneath the pedal, then this is a great place to start. Originally unleashed on the motoring public back in 1998, various iterations of the vehicle have featured a range of power systems including 1.8t BioPower and 2.8T V6 Diesel engines.

After the success of the Saab 900 and subsequent growth of the company through the late 90′, our favorite car company came out with a completely new car in 2003, as a continuation of the 9-3 name. Commonly referred to as the Sport Sedan, 9-3ss, or 9440 chassis (as opposed to the outgoing 9400 body style), these cars are coming down pretty sharply in price. Because of that, like the Saab 9-5, it is possible to buy a fantastic car for pennies on the dollar (we picked up a running 9-3ss for our next race car for $500).
You should be able to find a good selection of Saab 9-3s available on the second hand market when looking for a used car. This solid car is a great choice for reliable motoring and with special editions like the Viggen still kicking around, you can even find something a little more collectible within the range.
 However, like most cars bottoming out in value, it’s important to keep an eye out for the top 10 most common Saab 9-3 problems.

For Newer model vehicles ,General Motors had a heavy hand when managing Saab’s design and building oversight on this project, which means you will see an increased amount of GM parts-bin sourced components. This is especially noticeable in areas such as switch packs, stereo equipment, and materials used both on the interior, exterior, and engine bay. The chassis is a reworked GM Epsilon platform, roughly shared with a few other GM cars. In 2007 the interior was updated, and in 2008 the 9-3s underwent an external facelift, with many newly designed parts added with both.It’s always advisable to be cautious when purchasing any second hand car – and with our common problems guide you can stay alert to some of the most prevalent issues affecting the Saab 9-3.

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN NEWER AND OLD MODEL SAAB DESIGN AND FEATURES

The 2.0 4 cylinder is a GM Ecotec unit that is also used in tons of other applications. That’s not to say this is not a Saab engine, as engineers in Sweden had their hands all over it during the design phase. Additions include the use of Saab’s Ion sensing Trionic system, updated internal materials, block casting processes, valvetrain updates, and a revised cylinder head. This version of Trionic (8 in this case) differs from T5 and T7 because the ion sensing module is a separate unit instead of being built into the direct ignition cassette. This allows for money-saving individual ignition coils instead of a complicated coil pack. Two turbos were offered, a small Garret GT2052s and a larger TD04 for Arc and Aero models.

Since this run of cars is so comprehensive, and so many changes were made over models, we will focus on the most popular 2003-2007 9-3 with the 2.0 engine. Many of these will still translate; however, there are some differences in later facelifted cars, as well as vehicles equipped with the V6 engine. So now that you have the rundown of the car itself, here’s a list of common failure points to keep an eye out for when shopping for one of these cars in no particular order.

Key Not Recognized, Haywire Turn Signals, Wipers, Cruise Control, or Lost all Keys

KEYLESS ENTRY


The Central Integrated Module, or CIM, is a very complicated computerized device in the steering column that has a lot of control over your car’s systems. A few of those systems include verifying your key chips, controlling your wiper transmission, cruise control, steering angle sensor, as well as housing the clock springs for the turn signals.

The keys stop working altogether (or you lost them), that’s a bad thing, and you will probably need a new CIM.
If the other systems listed above are acting super weird, first swap your battery for a new one to make sure everything is getting the right voltage.
You did all of this and still have no change, you may be looking to replace the CIM. The Central Integrated Module requires a dealer program to divorce from and marry to the computer, so don’t start pulling these things apart yourself without a TechII and some training.
Also, do NOT pull out the red clip, no matter how tempting it is. If you pull that out without the unit installed in the car and the wheels in the proper direction, you will brick the module, and it is not cheap. We, of course, will NOT refund sprung CIMs.

Bulkhead


When out on the road try some full lock steering movements. Do you hear a clicking noise when the wheel is turned to its full potential? If so, then you could be looking at a problem with the bulkhead, which is caused by a mounting system that connects this part to the steering rack. Another tell-tale sign of this issue is vague and slightly unresponsive steering. Avoid any vehicle exhibiting these symptoms.

SAAB 9-3 Door Locks Won’t Function (Door Locks)

This one is particularly annoying. You go to unlock your car, hear it unlock, walk up to pull the handle, and PSYCH, that door is still locked. You look around and notice only 3 of the 4 locks actuated, leaving you to walk around and use the other door to get into the car. If it’s the driver’s side door lock, I suspect you will waste no time in replacing it. Luckily we sell enough of these in Genuine Saab to keep in stock. Many 9-3ss owners will replace a door lock assembly at some point, so prepare yourself and be happy that these parts are available (and at a reasonable price too!). Watch out for the VIN split in 2005, as the design changed midway through the year, and you must know when your car was produced to get the right lock.

SAAB 9-3 Fuel Gauge Reading Empty (Fuel Level Sensor)

It is fairly common to be driving, and witness your fuel gauge suddenly drop to zero. Although this does not affect the drivability of the car, it can be a somewhat frustrating problem .The issue is related to a sensor on the fuel pump, which is prone to failure, resulting in a lost signal and an empty fuel reading. The part in question is attached to the fuel pump, but it is available for buying separately. It fits all 9-3ss models.

However, if your car is past HUNDRED K miles on the stock fuel pump since you have to drop the tank to do the job, we recommend changing the entire fuel pump unit out with a new TI Automotive one, formally known as Walbro. The fuel pump assembly has the fuel level sensor built-in.

9-3 Hesitation, Surging, and Rough Idle (Electronic Throttle Body)

Like nearly all modern cars, the 9-3ss uses an electronic throttle body that is prone to failure.  The throttle body has a rotating ‘butterfly’ plate inside that controls the volume of airflow into the engine, and is controlled electronically via the throttle-by-wire system and the computer inputs.  This means that the computer is in control to more effectively control the engine based on what it thinks you want it to do.

Clutch Pedal Won’t Return Up

This is a common problem that will almost surely manifest itself at some point on all manual transmission cars. If your clutch pedal isn’t returning back up, relax. You can still drive the car, and it will just feel super weird until you get under there and replace the helper spring and associated clips. 

Generally, people replace the whole thing (It’s not too expensive), but usually, the clip on it is what breaks, and this can be replaced by itself. 

Cooler Oil Leaks

Get under the hood and take a look at your potential purchase’s coolant. You are looking for signs of oil contamination. There is a well-known issue with Saab 9-3s where leaks can occur between the lubrication and cooling systems due to the chain powered design of the water pump. This issue is one of the more expensive on our list to fix and is definitely one that should make you think twice about parting with your money.

Hood

Fancy a bit of air out on the open road? Convertibles are great for those who love free and easy motoring in the summer. The Saab 9-3 convertible is a good buy that holds its value well but you want to make sure the hood is the full ticket. Raise and lower it a couple of times to ensure it’s in good working order and do the Sherlock Holmes bit and scour the surface for leaks, rips and damage.

However, when these electronics fail inside the throttle body, latency and tolerances increase in operation causing hesitation, surging, and rough idle.  If you are encountering a rough idle, try cleaning the throttle body before replacing it.  A GM dealer TechII scan tool may be required to calibrate the ETB when replacing.  Don’t forget a new gasket!

SAAB 9-3 Seatbelt Won’t Retract

A saggy seatbelt isn’t just annoying, it’s unsafe.  Saab issued a recall awhile ago (and took their time about fixing it), but lately we have been selling a lot of seatbelt tensioners that pick up the slack in the assembly.

If you have a saggy belt, first check to make sure the belt isn’t binding up near the slot where it comes out of the B-Pillar trim.  If it moves free and clean, something inside the tensioner might be broken, requiring immediate replacement.  We have these in stock to get you back on the road as soon as possible.

9-3 Clicking Noise In-Dash (Recirculation Motor)

Behind the glovebox is a series of motors that control the HVAC system, one of them is the re-circulation flap motor that opens and closes the vent to use outside air. Inside these little motor, assemblies are a series of small plastic gears that tend to lose more teeth than an aging boxer. This has two outcomes. The first is a very annoying clicking sound around the glovebox area. The second is the flap operation degraded, and you may lose your recirculation feature on your AC.

Interior Heating

Heater controlsBelieve it or not one of the most common issues with the Saab 9-3 is with the heating system. However, we’re not talking about deep faults within the air conditioning unit, but rather structural problems with the dial controls and knobs. These are known to easily crack off and split. Fortunately they cost less than £10 each to repair, so don’t let the heating controls, or lack thereof, put you off a purchase.

If this is going on, you have two options. The first is to take apart the assembly, and if you’re lucky, the missing teeth will only be on one part of the gear. You can remove the gear and re-clock it since only a small section of the gear actually comes in contact with the other gears. The second option is to simply pop in a new one and be done with it.

9-3 Peeling buttons (Climate Control Button Set)

The Saab 9-3 is supposed to be an upscale car, but when all the buttons on the climate control panel are peeling and cracking away, it sure doesn’t feel like it. Luckily these button sets are available in Genuine Saab and aren’t too complicated to change. We have two sets, one for cars with heated seats and one for vehicles without heated seats. Don’t stare at these anymore, spend the little extra on this cosmetic fix, and get back to appreciating the interior of your car. Just remember that it may look like the box is filled in packing material, but there are actually three loose buttons wrapped up in there, so don’t call us saying that you didn’t get the other buttons, they were in there, and we know you threw them away. Time to start dumpster diving!

Oil Sludge

Thinking of buying a petrol powered 9-3? If the previous owner of this Saab has not been keeping up with regular services or has used thicker oil than is stipulated in the owner’s manual then sludge can build up rapidly in the engine. Check the service history to make sure the owner has been on the ball or you could experience costly problems with the balancer shaft further on down the line.

Coolant Leaks (Water Pump)

This is a dreaded failure that most 2.0 4cylinder Ecotec (Saab B207) engines will encounter. The water pump is a strange design, driven off a chain in the timing cover rather than on the outside of the engine with a belt. This seems like it would be more of a robust design, but more often than not, you will find yourself having to replace the water pump without gobs of miles on the odometer.
You can postpone the failure and leakage of the pump by changing the coolant at regular intervals, but generally assume this to be an inevitability. To change it, you need a special tool to lock the gear in place. That way, you can undo the bolts on the gear and take the pump out on the other side of the bracket. If for some reason, the gear has excessive wear on it, you can buy the Genuine Saab version, which comes with the gear.

SAAB 9-3 Binding Steering and Popping Noise From Suspension (Broken Coil Springs)

Broken suspension springs are a common problem in new-gen 9-3’s, and are something to keep an eye out for. For whatever reason, the springs snap near the perch, causing a knocking/popping noise. You will notice a definite change in the way the car drives at that point, and you should see the corner with the broken spring will be sagging lower than the others.

IGNITION SWITCH MODULE


Strut Mounts

Listen out for a grinding noise on your test drive. Do you hear unpleasant grinding noises and squeaks, particularly as you’re going round corners? The likely culprit in this scenario are the mounts and bearings at the top of the McPherson struts in the suspension system. If the car has more than 100K miles on the clock then it could still be worth buying and replacing all the suspension struts, if the seller is willing to give you a good enough discount.

If you want a quality car that impresses and imposes on the road then the Saab 9-3 is definitely not a bad selection. Later models improved the crash worthiness and saw extensive pillar reinforcements and airbags adding to the vehicle’s safety credentials. If you want to do a lot of miles on the road, and you want the comfort and power to get there feeling great, then this is definitely one to strongly consider.

Luckily, it’s easy to check out the problem since a broken spring will be quite obvious upon visual inspection and easy enough to fix with the right set of tools. We have a wide variety of SAAB 9-3 suspension springs available, so it’s important that if you have a broken spring, to look at the paint markings on the spring. 


Friday, 4 June 2021

OIL LEAK FROM VALVE COVER

 After replacing the oil seals, oil started coming our from the valve cover ventilation

Excessive oil consumption and leak


The tell-tale sign of a valve cover gasket that has lost its seal is an oil-covered valve cover or a burning oil smell when the engine is running. As oil leaks from a valve cover, it can contact a hot exhaust manifold and burn. A valve cover can leak oil while the engine is running, but not while the engine is at rest.


What causes oil to leak from a crankcase through an air filter


The oil doesn't leak from the air filter rather it would be right if we call it from the crankcase this is intentionally done so as to release excess pressure from the crankcase because of blow by that allows exhaust gases to seep through piston ring gaps it continuously fills up the crankcase with huge amount of exhaust gases and at a high pressure and this must be released somewhere either in the atmosphere or right in the cylinders so that they can be burned so engineers decided to burn them right in the cylinders because venting it outside will be harmful to atmosphere so they are purged into the cylinders. Technically it is known as pcv positive crankcase ventilation where there are two hoses one is connected to the air box (after air filter) and the crankcase to get the crankcase fresh air and it's called breather hose the other hose called pcv is connected to the crankcase and the vacuum of the engine just after throttle body (moving from air filter) in case of a petrol engine.


Oil leak on the hose which came form valve cover to air intake 

The leak starts after changing air filter

PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is blowing by and causing engine oil to go through the PCV tube.  I recommend replacing the PCV valve and clean out the tube. Then every time you have an oil change, I recommend replacing the PCV valve to prevent any more oil consumption and leakage. If you need further assistance with the oil getting on the air filter.
The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve works to evacuate gas from the crankcase of the engine. The PCV valve directs these gases back into the combustion chambers via the intake manifold. This plays a large role in engine efficiency, improving emissions and the overall operation of your vehicle. A bad PCV valve will affect the performance of your vehicle, so there are a few signs to watch out for before the valve completely fails:

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve

A bad PCV valve may have a leak, which will cause excessive oil consumption. In addition, you may also notice oil leaking through the seals and dripping on to the floor of your garage. This is because the pressure in the crankcase may increase when the PCV valve fails, so the oil is pushed out through the seals and gaskets since there's no other way for the pressure to be released. The leak will cause your vehicle to burn oil and leak oil beneath your vehicle. If you notice either of these, consult a professional mechanic to have your PCV valve replaced.