Water Pump and Timing Belt Issues

Leaking Water Pump


Q: I just took my car to Pep Boys and they just found a leak in my water pump. I don't really think that it just happened because I just had it in the shop about two weeks ago. But they told me that to replace the water pump, that I "HAVE" to replace the timing belt and all this other stuff with new parts. I want to know if that is true. Also what can I do until I gather enough money to repair the car?



A:On old model vehicles it was said that if the timing belt needs to be replaced then water pump also has to be replaced and viceversa.

What can you do until you gather enough money? Avoid driving the vehicle. Overheating an engine is a sure fire way to empty the check book. You did not mention what type of vehicle you own so it is not easy to tell you what you can and cannot get away with. It is not uncommon on today's vehicles for the water pump to be driven by the timing belt. To service the water pump on a vehicle with this type of configuration requires removing the timing belt.As per our garage repair experience i will say. You do not have to replace the timing belt when this work is being done. But all you're saving is the cost of the timing belt. All the labor money is tied up in replacing the water pump. There are also some oil seals that are ideally serviced while the timing belt is off as well. Many manufacturers have recommended timing belt service intervals between 60k and 90k. If your timing belt has that kind of mileage on it do yourself a favor and have it replaced while the water pump is being serviced. If the timing belt has low mileage, then don't replace it if monies are tight. The bottom line? You call the shots, it's your car and your money. If all you want is a water pump, and understand fully the possible additional costs you may face later by not performing the suggested repairs, just do the water pump.

Water Pump Squeals on Acceleration

Water Pump Failure Issues

Water Pump Squealing very loudly

Q: Actually replaced the water pump on my car twice in the last week, and it is failing again.
But why it is failing again n again?
There is a horrible squealing noise upon acceleration. My question is, is the noise coming from the water pump? (Plenty of water, new hoses, belts not slipping.) The new pump has not started to leak out of the weep-hole ..yet. Maybe I just bought a bad pump the first time, but surely not twice (its brand-new, not a rebuilt). The old owner put stop leak in the radiator. maybe, the pump is not getting good flow? However, the car does not overheat. Would a water pump, not getting good flow, make such a sound? The bearings are supposed to be sealed anyway, right? Would running straight water through the pump without antifreeze cause the pump to squeal and fail?.... Joe

A: I'm not convinced that you have a water pump problem. The possibility of three water pumps causing a belt squeal, is far too difficult to accept. There is something else that you're not picking up on. I would suggest a closer inspection of all the fan belts. If your vehicle is equipped with the flat serpentine type fan belt the tension settings are critical to proper belt performance. Many vehicles with serpentine type fan belts also have an automatic belt tensioner. A weak or failing belt tensioner will cause the fan belt to slip and squeal under acceleration. Stop focusing on the water pump and look at the whole picture, the answer to your problem is right in front of you.

Understanding Vehicle Technical Service Bulletin Process?

What is a Technical Service Bulletin

Where should i go when TSB is issued for my vehicle?

Is it free repair or service at dealer if TSB is released?


Below i will explain you Complete Theory of TSB in Detail :----


A Service Bulletin in the automotive trade is called a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). TSB's would be better described as a problem/solution bulletin. TSB's can cover a large array of problems.

Let's start with the repair manuals and time guides. It is not uncommon for the diagnostic or repair procedure to be incorrect, just plain wrong, in the repair manual.

Nobody is going to reprint the whole manual, instead TSB's are issued to alert the tech and be used as an insert. TSB's report on updated repair procedures and new parts to replace problem parts.

• TSB's have fixes for some of the strangest problems like dash itches to providing information on just how a component or system should be operating. 
• TSB's also report on warranty information and in the event if a warranty is extended due to product problems. On today's high tech vehicle's performing a TSB search is nearly second nature and just part of what an up to date repair facility does for its customers. 
• One final note, TSB's are not be to confused with safety recalls. The work performed for a Safety Recall is free to the vehicle owner. 
• TSB's are there to aid in solving problems and providing up to date repair information. Repair is not free unless the vehicle is still under warranty.

Understanding Service Engine Light Issues?

What is a Service Engine Light? 

 What exactly  has to be serviced?

Complete Engine or some particular part?



A: You know, that’s a great question! Because the only other backward phrase next to the "Service Engine Soon" is "Check Engine". What person with any sense would use such a phrase? The Check Engine warning light comes on in a bright yellow. So you stop your vehicle and open the hood. Surprise! The engine is still there. No it didn’t fall out while you were driving. It looks no different than that last time you saw it. So, what’s the point of that darn warning light? Okay, now the Service Engine Soon light. Just what the heck does that mean? What’z, the oil low? No, it must be the coolant! I know of people that had their oil changed 2 to 3 times in an effort to turn the Service Engine Soon light off. It wasn’t that these people were on the short end of a stick. Though it would have been helpful to read the foreign language manual that comes with the vehicle. They were just following the seemly simple instruction displayed in bright warning yellow.

As per Our Professional Garage Repair  theory. Computers in vehicles came about the same time the politically correct junk did. After all we wouldn't want to offend people with accurate information and the truth now, would we? You see once the politically correct flip’os had infiltrated the auto industry they quickly went to work. They construed a plan to introduce warning lights that just confuse the issue, AKA politically correct warning lights! Translation? No body has a clue what it means.

The Service Engine Soon warning light is just the politically correct way to alert you that the computer in your vehicle has a system problem. Visit your favorite automotive service facility for a diagnostic consultation with your vehicle’s computer.

Understanding Fuel Too Lean Issue

What is Fuel Too Lean?

Q: I got Error code stating Fuel Lean.What is "fuel is too lean" mean in the diagnostic test?

A: I will explain you the query with complete detail.
Go through the details mentioned below.Fuel Too Lean is possibly one of the most difficult computer codes to diagnose. Why is that? There are a couple of things that you need to understand first, before you understand what too lean means. An engine to run correctly needs a good balance of air and fuel. This balance is called the air /fuel ratio. A correct balance of air and fuel is generally at a ratio of 14.7 pounds of air to one 1 pound of fuel. If you change either number of that ratio, is will have an effect on the engine's performance. The computer in your vehicle is always working to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. However, as time goes on the engine wears, fuel injectors become restricted, vacuum leaks happen and sensors may become worn and/or lie to the computer. After all, it is a rough environment under the hood of your vehicle. The engineers designed the program in your vehicle's computer to make adjustments to compensate for changes that occur with time. This ability of the computer is called adaptive learn. But, there is a limit to how much the computer can adapt, all the while, maintaining the ideal air/fuel ratio. If the computer determines that it cannot adapt any more to provide enough fuel for the amount of air entering the engine it will turn on the check engine light and report a code indicating that the system is too lean. Too much air entering the engine for the amount of fuel available. There is also a code for the opposite condition of the engine receiving too much fuel, system too rich. In either case, the code does not indicate a broken sensor, all it means is that the computer cannot maintain the correct air/fuel ratio and it wants help in fixing the problem. I've seen many parts replaced because of this code that did not fix the problem. You'll need a technician that understands and has the necessary diagnostic tools to provide the correct solution to a system too lean computer code.

Scan Tool For Testing OBD Codes

OBD CODE TESTING SCAN TOOL FOR CAR AND JEEPS

What Scan Tool To Buy?

Q: I need a little advice. My code reader is just not getting the job done. I need a scan tool and would like to only spend my money once. What features am I looking for and do you have a recommendation?


A: Here’s the first fact that you’ll have to face; you will never spend your money “just once” on any scan tool made today. There is not one scan tool made that will do it all. If there was it would be over $20K for that scan tool and it would still be outdated next year! Whatever you buy plan on paying for software updates if you want to work on next years cars. Plan on whatever scan tool you buy being outdated by the year 2008, unless you plan on buying the updated modules that will allow the scan tool to work with the newer, faster communications systems that are just around the corner. I could start a scan tool museum with the dust collectors I have in storage that won’t work on today’s cars, but if an ’82 Chevy Citation comes into the shop I have at least 2 dust collectors that will rock that vehicle’s computer. But my new scan tool won’t pull even a “bit” of information from that dinosaur. Here’s my recommendation, determine what type/make of vehicles you work on most often. Identify the company that makes the scan tool and software for the selected vehicle manufacturer. These companies often sell their scan tools with a lesser version of software, to someone like you or me, that will open most of the windows when you want to look into the vehicle’s computer. Also budget for annual software updates. There are very few scan tool makers that let you jump or skip a software update. You have to lock into the annual software update thing or they really clobber you when you do update. There is not one fix for your question and you’ll find that the cost of doing computer related work, diagnosis and repair is expensive and hard. But for some wicked strange reason I love it. Best of luck.

Quality Gasoline For Vehicle

How To Know About Quality Of Gas Used For Vehicle

Buying Cheaper Gasoline For Car


Q: In  New Hampshire few Wholesale Food Clubs  sell gasoline at least 10 cents a gallon less than brand names. How can they do that and can this product be harmful to an engine?....Gerald.

A: First, ask yourself why you go to the Wholesale Club to buy their product? The answer more often than not is price. When a company as big as these wholesaler's want to buy product they have unsurpassed buying power. They go directly to the manufacturer and order, not a truck load, but train loads of product. As for gasoline? Buying power, combined with volume of sales, allows for the pricing you're seeing. There are state and federal laws that govern gasoline. The manufacturer and retailer of gasoline are open to a big pile of trouble if the gasoline being sold is mislabeled or does not meet state and federal standards. Hey, whenever I'm buying a 40lb bag of cheese curls I fill my gas tank too!

Washer Fluid In The Radiator

Accidentally poured windshield fluid in radiator

Q: I accidentally pour windshield fluid into my radiator. Has it caused major damage? Do I need to take it to a mechanic right away?

A: It's not a good thing to mix coolant with window washer fluid. You should also know that you are not the first and you will not be the last person to perform such a wondrous feat. My suggestion? Take your vehicle to your repair facility and have them drain and refill the cooling system, don't forget the coolant reservoir too. Just be thankful you didn't put anti-freeze in the windshield washer reservoir. That stuff really makes a mess of the windshield.

How To Turn OFF "check engine light"

Check engine light reset

Q: Please Tell  how to turn off my "Check Engine" light? For 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 L. An auto parts store guy read the code for me, and said he thought it would turn off after about 15 or so "drive cycles". Any truth to that?



A: The “Check Engine” will turn off by itself if the problem is no longer present after about 3 drive cycles. Each time your vehicle is started and driven the computer’s software commands a wide variety of tests to be performed and monitors various sensors while the vehicle is being driven. A drive cycle is when the vehicle/engine sets long enough for the coolant to drop below a specified temperature. Then the engine is started and the vehicle is driven at different speeds and allowed to reach full operating temperature. The reason for this? The computer not only tests the system, it also monitors for range of operation. Certain tests can only be performed when the engine is cold while others are performed when the engine is hot. Each time the engine is started the computer performs over a hundred checks and tests of your vehicle’s emissions system, which includes the automatic transmission too. If your problem has been corrected, generally the “Check Engine” light will turn off within a day or two of normal driving. If the light does not turn off, there is a system problem and diagnosis is needed.

Gas Gauge Acts Crazy

Gas Gauge Not Performing right

Jeep Grand Cherokee, Nut'zy Gas Gauge

Q: The gas gauge on 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee will drop to empty then return to 3/4 to 1/2 tank every so often or until I fill it up or the gauge goes below half tank. The dealer said I need a new pump but there isn't anything else going on. Any suggestions?

- Salvatore T.

A: Your vehicle is notorious for gas gauge problems. In fact, there was a safety recall that affected about 400,000 Jeeps including the Jeep Grand Cherokee built in ‘97. The problem was the gas gauge would report that there was enough fuel when, in reality, there was not enough fuel and the vehicle would be dead on the side of the road. I’m not sure that your Jeep qualifies for this recall but it is worth checking into. Also, you’re not being told the whole story. If your Jeep dealer checks his/her Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) they will find TSB# 08-19-97 that provides the part number for a replacement fuel sending unit that is sold separately. The TSB goes on to identify which of the 3 possible replacement part numbers that would fit your Jeep. The gas tank still has to be removed to service this part, but it is at a considerable savings to the vehicle owner compared to buying the complete fuel pump module. The fuel pump module is a new fuel pump and sending unit all together and is a bit on the pricey side. One last note, if your fuel pump has 100k and has not be replaced I would suggest installing the complete module. About any fuel pump with that kind of mileage is living on borrowed time.

Brakes are ratcheting and makes clicking sound

Brake Ratchet and Makes Clicking noise

Q: I changed the ball joints on 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 wheel drive. After that  brakes act strange. It seems my ABS is acting up and I hear a clicking sound as I increase in speed.When I apply the brakes it sounds like my brakes are ratcheting.


A: Take a look at the front axles of your jeep just where they enter the hub assembly. You should see a part that looks like a gear that is mounted on the axle. That gear is called a toner ring. As the teeth/gear looking part of the toner ring pass by the wheel speed sensor, a signal is created that the ABS system uses to monitor wheel speed. If a tooth is broken off the gear, the ABS computer will think that the wheel is turning at a different speed. This will cause the ABS computer to become active when it doesn't have to be. It doesn't take much to mess up the toner ring or even the sensor. I would suggest a close inspection of these components on both sides of the vehicle for possible damage. Any signs of damage will require replacement of the sensor, or if the toner ring is damaged the axle will have to be replaced. The toner ring is not sold separately.

Squeaking Brakes

Jeep Cherokee Brake Squeaks


Q: Brake job done on our 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee back in April of 1998. A few weeks later I went back because the brakes were squealing. They said, "It's supposed to sound like that because there is no more asbestos in the brakes". They also said, "It will wear off after I run the car a while and put on a few miles". I recently took it back again in June of this year. Again they said, "Nothing is wrong, they are suppose to squeal". I asked them," How come the brakes don't squeal on the new cars in this lot?" No reply! My question to you. What do you think? Is there anything I can do about this?... Squeaking brakes!!!!!!!

A: Well, you've got them. The brakes are not supposed to squeal on your vehicle, but the noise doesn't mean the brakes are unsafe, there could be other factors. The squealing noise is an indication that not all the necessary procedures were followed while the brake job was being performed, or that the friction material used on the brakes was of questionable quality. The high frequency squealing sound, when braking, is caused by brake pads vibrating. Improper assembly procedures are the most common cause for brake squeal. Proper inspection, preparation, cleaning and lubrication of braking components is critical in preventing brake squeal. Also, realize that not all braking materials, brake pads or shoes, are created equal. Discount brake pads or shoes are not of the same quality engineering and material as original equipment or quality aftermarket brakes. It's like re-capped tires compared to radials tires. They both do the same job but...

Repetitive Brake Problems

Brake Issues Occur Again n Again on Jeep

Regarding Jeep Grand Cherokee, Brake Problems
Q: My vehicle is 97 Grand Cherokee with 55k miles. Wee just replaced 4th set of  brakes put on including the original set. The rotors and pads were replaced each time. That equals a new set approximately every 14k miles. It is driven in very mild conditions around town with no heavy braking. It always has the same problem. The brakes feel like they engage and disengage as you come to a stop. It gives a slow pulsing sensation.

The first evaluation always offered is warped rotors. The problem is that immediately after a brake job you still can feel this problem. It’s milder at first and then becomes more pronounced as time goes on. I also know it has nothing to do with the rear brakes because if you use the hand brake to stop you don’t get the symptom.

The second theory is some type of ABS malfunction.This has been completely dismissed by the dealer.

Any idea what the problem could be??

A: How about checking the hub that the brake rotors are mounted on? Just the day of answering your letter we a had a Mercury Crown Vic in the shop that had a brake pulsation complaint. Diagnosis indicated that the front brake rotors were the problem. From what we were told, they had been a problem for sometime. As often as possible we’ll machine the brake rotors on the vehicle. When the equipment was installed on the vehicle to machine the rotors there was a problem. The computer, yes we used computerized equipment to perform this task, was at a loss. It could not calibrate itself properly, meaning it needed help from a carbon based life form (humans). Inspection found that the hub that the brake rotor set on was off by .003" of an inch. Now .003" of an inch is just about 2 hairs stacked. That’s not much you may say. But, in the world of brakes that adds up to a lot when you carry that line out another 4 to 5". My point is that no matter how many brake rotors are installed on this vehicle the brakes will always end up pulsating,, which could very well be the problem with your vehicle. They just have to look deeper. As for the Crown Vic, there is no silicone based form (computer) that can problem solve the way the carbon forms do.

Evaporator Coil Replacement

 Replacement Evaporator Coil For Jeep Cherokee



Q: A query from inexperienced mechanic, I was wondering if I am able to replace the evaporator coil for 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.2 liter engine. Where can I find complete instructions on how to do it?
Please Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!


A: First, you would have to define inexperienced. I’m a believer that anyone can do about anything they put their mind to. The main tools you’ll need for a job such as replacing an A/C evaporator in your Jeep is patience, attention to detail and information. Information can be found but the detailed information you need, to maintain patience, will need to be borrowed or bought. You can purchase factory information and diagrams on-line. An example would be found at alldata.com. ALLDATA Information Systems has a Do It Yourself (DIY) section that allows you to purchase vehicle specific information. If you want to DIY this job, be organized. Have information and allow plenty of time. If you’re inexperienced, tackling a job like replacing an A/C evaporator without good information will have you throwing tools down the driveway. In which case, you should park your Jeep to allow for easy access for the wrecker, in the event you throw all your tools down the driveway.

Low Oil Pressure

Oil Pressure Very Low on Jeep Grand Cherokee

Q:My Vehicle is 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.2 liter engine and the oil pump failed on vacation. The mechanic replaced the main, rod bearings, seal and oil pump. Now when the engine is started cold the oil pressure is fine. After warming up the idling oil pressure is 20 PSI and drops to just above zero when placed into gear. When the Jeep is moving down the road, the oil pressure is 20-30 PSI.


A: I’m concerned a bit with your oil pressure readings. The first thing you should do is have a mechanical oil pressure gauge installed and check the readings to confirm that the dash display is accurate  If the mechanical reading is the same as the dash gauge readings then you have problems, and here is where I have a problem. Why were the rod and main bearings replaced? The likely answer is because they were damaged. If they were damaged what did the surface that they rode against look like? I’ll tell you right now, damaged! If an engine loses an oil pump and the main and rod bearings are damaged I can assure you that the surface (crankshaft) that they ride on was damaged as well. So now ask yourself what happens if you place new parts against damaged old parts? I’ll save you the time, you get low oil pressure. When the oil pump failed the rod and main bearings rode against the crankshaft main and rod journals with no lubrication. The bearings are the soft part, but the surface on the crankshaft went down with the bearings. If I’m wrong then you have bad camshaft bearings. In either case, the engine has to come out of the vehicle to repair it correctly. Or should I say pull the check book out to repair it correctly.

Cruise Control Not Working On Jeep

Jeep Cherokee Cruise Control Has No Power

Cruise Control Fuse Location

Q: Its a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I cannot find a fuse for the cruise control, and it seems to have no power to it. The light on the dash will not come up when the cruise control is activated. I have looked under the hood and on the passenger side door panel fuse holders, and the cruise control doesn't seem to be indicated in those two areas.


A: You’re not really going to find a fuse for the cruise control on your Jeep. Why? The cruise control unit is controlled by the vehicle computer and receives its power supply from the same computer. If power is not being supplied to the speed control servo you want to inspect the stop light switch. The stop light switch, on your vehicle is really 3 switches in one. One part of the switch is for the stoplights. The other two parts are for the cruise control and, if not operating correctly, the cruise control will not operate. Also be sure to check the vacuum supply to the cruise control unit. It is not uncommon for a vehicle of that age to have cracked vacuum hoses. A cracked vacuum hose will result in a loss of vacuum supply. Too little, or no vacuum supply equals no cruise control. There are a few checks you can make with a voltmeter, but to get down and dirty with the cruise control on your vehicle requires a computer scan tool too.

Check Engine Light Comes ON again n again

Jeep Cherokee Check Engine Light Will Not Reset

Q: Problem noticed on 1996 Grand Cherokee Lorado has 97K on it. I have taken care of the vehicle pretty well. Recently driving in upstate NY the check engine light came on. When I shut the it off and started it after a few minutes, the light remained on. I went on to remove the battery cable in order to reset the computer; this worked for a little while maybe 3 weeks. Within that time, I was getting very bad gas mileage, so I changed the O2 sensor. The one near the exhaust manifold was fouled and checking the one on the converter was ok . Also I’ve poured Textron additive because it was sluggish on initial take off from a stop. At times I’d lose power when I accelerated hard in overdrive. The light went on again, even when I reset it again by removing the battery cable it came on within the hour and the mileage is still bad. What do you think could be the cause of this problem, or do I need to go to the dealer for a diagnostic check up.


A: Yes you need to go to a dealer or and independent repair facility to get the answer to your vehicle’s problem. Also, whatever you do, "do not" unhook the battery before you go! Unhooking the battery causes the computer not only to reset, but in the process all information that the computer has to share, with the technician servicing your vehicle, is lost. An empty computer file will have no diagnostic information and you will get a bill for telling you there is nothing wrong. So, make the appointment, drive the vehicle and leave the battery alone. With the Check Engine Light on the computer will have the information you need to get your Jeep back to good running order.

Vehicle Goes Opposite direction at Sharp Turns

Turning Issues and Thumping Problem


Q: While engage the 4WD on 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and turn to sharp corner, the front wheels sort of take me in the opposite direction and a thumping takes place...it is also really hard to steer. This only happens when I take a sharp turn doing 5 mph or when I turn at a green light, turning sharp while accelerating in the turn. Others have told me that they have the same problem with their Jeep. Is it true that Chrysler Corp had a recall for this problem in 1996?


A: Did you know that many 4x4 or All Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles are not really 4x4/AWD? Many of these vehicles are either a front or rear wheel drive. It’s the technology designed into the drivetrain of these vehicles that allows them to transform, in merely a second, into a 4x4 or AWD vehicle, and you’ll never feel it happen, unless there is a problem with a device called a Viscous Coupler. A Viscous Coupler compares front wheel speed to rear wheel speed. If a difference is noted (rear or front wheels spinning) the Viscous Coupler engages and directs power to the wheels that are not spinning as well, making them all work together. If your vehicle is feeling jerky, and acting as if something is binding while turning sharp at low speeds, then the Viscous Coupler should be inspected. Diagnosis of the coupler takes a whole 5 minutes, but the repair will put a sizable dent in your checking account.

Vehicle Shudders while going Uphill

Jeep Grand Cherokee, shuddering

Q: Its the 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 72K. All routine maintenance performed regularly without any missed. The vehicle is in great working order except for the following problem. Our check engine light keeps coming on when accelerating up hills at 55+mph. When we are about at the crest of a hill the light starts flashing then when the vehicle starts to down shift it starts shuddering real bad. This shuddering will last until you back off the gas and slow down. We have had the valve springs replaced, then had the mechanics do some work (because of the codes thrown) and this last week a new computer was installed. Two days after the computer was replaced the check engine light came back on under these same conditions. What could be the problem?

A: ALL DATA IS GREAT SOURCE. Join ALLDATA.The ALLDATA Information System shows several Technical Service Bulletins (TSB’s) that are related to driveability problems with check engine lights coming Here is the procedure explained for you to understand.
on.

The computer will report information to the technician that is not valid and send him/her down the wrong diagnostic path. With the recent replacement of the vehicle’s computer I would hope you got the latest and greatest software update. No, your Jeep isn’t running on Windows 98. If the computer is up to speed then the concerns move to the ignition and fuel system. If the problem is happening as the transmission down shifts and the engine RPM jumps higher than the norm, there may be a problem with the ignition wires. Strange as it may seem, we’ve found that under load and high engine RPM tired spark plug wires will introduce an immensely confusing engine skip that will not only turn the check engine light on, it also sends the computer into the high alert mode causing the check engine light to blink. The blinking check engine light on most ‘96 and up vehicles is the computer attempting to alert the driver to the pending doom of the catalytic converter. In closing, do not ignore the fuel system as a possible cause. A fuel pressure gauge should be installed and the vehicle driven in a manner that causes the engine to go into convulsions. Only then could you be sure of the abilities of the fuel pump. The fix will likely be simple. It’s finding the cause that will drive you nutz.

All Gauges Not Working

Troubleshooting Gauges Issues On Jeep

Jeep Cherokee, Gauge Problems 

Q: All gauges: The speedometer, tachometer, and gas gauge on 1996 Jeep Cherokee not working.Tried replacing the instrument cluster pod and still have the same problem. When they went out they would work off and on and the needles bounced around at times, then went out for good. Any suggestions?


A: Start with checking the fuses. The number 7 fuse in the fuse panel is a main player in powering up the instrument cluster in your Jeep. You should also realize that the action of the instrument cluster displays (speedometer, tachometer, gas gauge, etc.) are primarily a result of information processed by a computer called a Body Control Module (BCM). Because so many of your gauges are acting strangely the BCM is suspect. The BCM does have built in diagnostic abilities that can be accessed with a scan-tool. Virtually all of the lights and gauges on your dash can be operated via the scan-tool, through the BCM, for confirming function. Before replacing any more costly instrument clusters or installing a replacement BCM (the cost of a replacement BCM will create respiratory problems), be sure to check the fuses and electrical connectors. Proper diagnosis will save you money.

A/C blows on High Mode Only

Hi Speed A/C Blower Only For Jeep Cherokee

Q: Suddenly, Air condition will only work on the HI setting on my 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee. If  set  to any other setting, no air will blow out. This sounds like an electrical problem but I’m not sure. Any ideas?

A: A very common problem.Your Jeep may be in need of a blower resistor. When you turn the blower speed control you’re directing electricity though different paths, all of which go to the blower motor. When you select low speed through mid speed you are really directing the electricity through a part called a resistor block. The resistor block has different resistors that control the amount of electricity that goes to the blower motor. But why only high speed? When the blower speed selected is high the resistor block is by-passed and full electrical power is directed straight to the blower motor. In most cases all that is needed is a new blower resistor block to return blower speed control.

Vehicle Stalls At Idle

Jeep Wrangler, Stalling Problems Troubleshooting

Q: Its a Jeep Wrangler 4.0L with an automatic transmission.

The Problem Noticed is :------ At cold start up it revs to fast idle then as it comes down to regular idle it stalls out. Restarting it may or may not stall again. When it reaches operating temperature, it runs fine.

Parts Replaced :----  The plugs, ignition wires, rotor and distributor cap were replaced at 2k-2.5k miles before stalling started and they still look good. Fuel pump pressure is normal. This vehicle has 143k mile on it and has given excellent service.

A: Take the air inlet hose off where it enters the throttle body and take a look at the throttle plates. It is likely that they’re dirty and have a build-up of carbon deposits. That is the most common cause for stalling that we see in the shop for your vehicle. Sometimes all it takes is a good cleaning to cure the stalling problem. There is an idle speed setting on your Jeep, but to check and/or perform this service step requires the use of a computer scan tool for your vehicle. If the cleaning doesn’t help ask a repair facility to check and reset, if needed, the minimum idle speed on your Jeep.

Ignition Coils Burning

Jeep Grand Cherokee Ignition Coil Burns Again n Again



Q: For Jeep Grand Cherokee. Idling very slow. I replaced the plugs wires and fuel filter but, still idled slow. I sent it to a mechanic who replaced the ignition coil and distributor pick up and it ran fine for one day. I took it to work and when I went to leave it wouldn’t start. I checked it and there was no spark so I took it back to the mechanic and he said the new coil went bad. He replaced it and it ran for 2 days then I went to drive it home from work and it wouldn’t start. I purchased another coil myself installed it and it fired right up. Do you have any idea why it’s burning up the coils?


A: Before replacing the coil too many more times you may want to go the Jeep dealer and buy an updated ignition coil and harness. The ignition coils were known for shorting internally, causing a variety of running problems. The update called for a lower internal resistance coil and a modification to the wiring harness that included an external resistor. If you’re installing an aftermarket coil that has a lower internal resistance without the wiring harness modification you’ll just keep burning out ignition coils.

Technical Service Bulletin Recalls For Jeep Cherokee

Safety Recalls For Jeep Cherokee

Q: Need listing of the recalls (safety and other) for  1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Can you help me find this list? All I am able to find are some safety recalls and next to no Service Bulletins.

A: Any person can check on safety recalls by calling the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration at 888-327-4236 or at www.nhtsa.dot.gov. As for TSB’s (Technical Service Bulletins) that is a different story. First you have to understand that a TSB involves a problem. The first problem with a problem is its definition. In the Webster’s big book a problem is defined as 1. a question proposed for solution or consideration. 2. a question, matter situation, or person that is perplexing or difficult. 3. in mathematics (hey this doesn’t count here forget it, need the space) The problem is there is no #4. who pays to fix the problem? Is it the tech? No, he/she works for the dealership. After all you can’t feed a family or own a house if you don’t get paid. The dealership? Yea at first they’re stuck with the cost until they get the money out of the folks who designed and built the vehicle. Of course the first thing they say is there’s no problem- must be your techs. Once enough dealerships are screaming, (just like their customers) the maker realizes Oh, maybe there is a problem. In the interim the solution, or an in the field fix is found. Here’s where the cost of a TSB really jumps. The maker has to get this information out to all the other dealerships, to let their techs know how to fix the problem, which may include redesigned parts. Also if the car is new enough the repairs may be for free (eegkads!). Getting the TSB out to all the dealers and techs, not to mention any parts, costs big bucks. Loss of big bucks means loss of big bucks! There are research and development costs, warehousing, distribution costs, transportation & delivery costs, installation costs, not to mention the white shirts trying to justify their corporate existence, it just plain cost money! Then a person like you or me comes along and asks for this information for free? Right! Hey they got the investment and need a return. Even the folks at ALLDATA Information Systems  have to pay for the information and the right to reprint it. Whether it’s computers, medicine, law or cars information is not free. Someone (that is you or me) has to pay for information in its final form.

Vehicle Will Not Start After Replacing Transmission

 No Start After Transmission Replaced

No Starting Issues & Transmission Problems


Q: Dropped  transmission on Jeep Cherokee to replace the oil seals that were leaking badly. After put it back in and now it won't start. Do I have to re-calibrate the computer or something? Any help would be awesome.



A: If it cranks over good but will not run I’d be looking at the crankshaft position sensor. The crankshaft position sensor is mounted in the bell housing of the transmission. The sensor is mainly plastic with very, very small wires inside. If it is hit, the engine is a no go. The quickest test is with a scan tool. With the scan tool connected to the computer go the crankshaft signal screen and crank the engine over. The computer will say yes for a crankshaft signal and no if there is not one. If no signal, a replacement sensor is likely needed.

Engine Quits After Running Few minutes

Engine Dies After Driving Few Minutes

Q: The engine just quits on  Jeep Cherokee after driving for few  min. Already replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs & wires and the distributor cap....What else can I check?


A: First, you're not checking you're replacing parts. This is a costly way to approach a problem. If the problem is so persistent you should be able to time a drive to a repair facility for diagnosis. But then again if it is anything like what happens when a problem vehicle comes to our shop, the problem goes away. You know the dentist and the tooth ache scenario? It is unlikely that the parts or related parts to the items you've replaced are the cause for your engine just shutting down. With Jeeps I'm more inclined to inspect critical inputs to the computer. Component failures that I have seen that are heat related on Jeeps have been the crankshaft position sensor. When this sensor drops out (fails) the computer just stops doing about anything. The signal from this sensor is a critical input and without it the vehicle will not run. Why? The signal from the crankshaft position sensor allows the computer to know when to provide spark and fuel. The Jeep just becomes a boat anchor until the signal returns. A problem as persistent as you're describing should be easily diagnosed. Once you have the diagnosis and know what has to be replaced life gets simpler.

Vehicle Quits While Driving

Engine Goes Dead While driving

Q:  Jeep Cherokee runs well 99.9% of the time. However, sometimes when driving, it will go dead. Usually it cranks right up when I pull to the shoulder of the road. Sometimes it will run for days with no problems. Other times it goes dead two or three times a day. I had it in the shop for a week, but they could not find anything wrong with it. Any suggestions?

A: If your Jeep is shutting off like someone turned the key I would be critical of the crankshaft position sensor. While your Jeep is running you can unplug just about every computer sensor on the engine and it will still run, not great but run. If the signal from the crankshaft position sensor is lost on your Jeep, the curtain drops like a rock on that show. The fuel injectors, along with the ignition system, are shut right down. Just bang, end of show! While the crankshaft position sensor is off line from the rest of the vehicle, you can crank the engine over until the battery goes dead or the starter burns up, it's just not going to start. The next time this condition occurs on your Jeep, turn the ignition off and then cycle the ignition from off to on three times. On the third cycle leave the ignition in the on position. At this point watch the check engine light it should start to flash. If the code flashed is an 11 it is a good bet that the crankshaft position sensor has failed. So, the next time your Jeep drops dead, cycle the key and find out what the computer might have to share with you while you wait.

Air Conditioner Vacuum Doors Close with Acceleration

Jeep Cherokee, A/C Vacuum Doors Close with Acceleration

Q: Its 1988 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 engine. The problem is with the air conditioning doors changing position to vent upon acceleration. The engine and accessories feel good and are running great cruising down the road, except during acceleration. When the engine drops the vacuum level, the A/C unit controls lose vacuum supply and the doors shift to their neutral positions. When we reach cruising speed with traffic, the vacuum comes back in and pulls the doors to the intended position to get that good cold air back in your face. We've visually checked the main vacuum lines from the intake manifold port through the reservoir under the front bumper up to the firewall. Thought I would ask if this is a recognized problem before I bend over and go through the dash, emissions lines or 4X4 systems.

A: If the vacuum lines and vacuum reservoir are not damaged, you have a sticking or missing check valve in the vacuum supply to the vacuum reservoir. The vacuum reservoir is just what its name implies, a storage device for vacuum. The engine creates vacuum. The vacuum is an energy that is used as a power source to operate different emission controls and accessories like the controls for the ventilation system. There are times that an engine does not create a good supply of vacuum. Because of this the vehicle manufacturers install reservoirs to store vacuum. The hose from the engine or the reservoir itself will have a check valve that blocks the loss of vacuum back to the engine. Why is this? When accelerating, the amount of vacuum created by the engine drops to a level that will no longer power any emission controls or provide for control of the ventilation system. The reservoir is designed to hold enough vacuum in storage to maintain control under most driving conditions. If the check valve fails the vacuum reservoir will lose vacuum so quickly that there will be none left in reserve. The result? A loss of control of vacuum operated devices.

Violent Shaking Noticed on Jeep

Vehicle shakes violently while driving

Q: I just bought an ‘87 Jeep Cherokee from a guy I know and while driving it home it began to shake violently almost to the point of losing control. It will stop and restart again but does not seem to be at any particular speed. Any suggestions?

A: I would suggest inspecting the steering and front end components of the vehicle. There is one part in particular, called the steering stabilizer that should be checked over closely. The steering stabilizer is basically a shock absorber for the steering. This not to be confused with the shock absorbers for the suspension. The mass (steering and suspension) in the front end of Jeeps has a frequency problem, meaning that as the vehicle is being driven down the highway a sort of vibration develops. The steering stabilizer absorbs/deadens this vibration so it is not delectable. If the stabilizer is worn it can no longer prevent the front end shake from happening. The shake from a failed stabilizer can be speed related when the steering is turned slightly or when the wheels hit a small bump, just right. With a little time most people figure out just how to induce the shakes. Once the shake starts it will not end until you virtually stop the vehicle. Start driving again and the condition will return it will return at the right speed or bump in the road.

Jeep CJ-7, Water Problems

WATER MIXING WITH OIL ISSUES ON JEEP


Question: I've got an '84 CJ-7, 258 straight six. There is quite a bit of water-oil mixture in the valve cover. I've notice just a tiny bit on the dip stick. But, when I drop the oil there is no water. Also, there is lots of water-oil accumulation in the air cleaner. And I notice the radiator is short on water about every two months. I get the feeling I have either a cracked block or a blown head gasket but the engine is actually running under temp during normal operation.?

A:There's no need to get physical. I don't believe that you're cooling loss is related to the watery-oil problem in the valve cover and air cleaner. It's not uncommon for a vehicle of that age to have small leaks that could account for the loss. The accumulation of water-oil in the air cleaner is a good indicator that the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is not functioning properly. Next, you're going to ask, "Where did the water come from that's in the engine?"

Have you seen condensation on a glass of water? Well, the same thing happens to engines. With temperature change, moisture will condense and collect inside an engine. But, that's only a small part of the picture. The greatest source of water in an engine is the combustion process, the burning of gasoline. How do you get water from gasoline? Gasoline is a hydrocarbon (HC). When gasoline is mixed with oxygen and heat, a thermal-chemical reaction occurs, it burns. Am I scaring you yet?

As the gasoline (HC) and oxygen (O2) burn, they break apart and re-join becoming water (H2O) and carbon dioxide (CO2). Of course there are other chemicals but these two are the main players. The remains of combustion (exhaust) H2O, CO2 and other chemicals are supposed to exit the tail pipe, but that doesn't happen. A portion of the combustion gases leak by the pistons in the engine, into the crankcase.

The job of the PCV system is to pull these gases H2O, CO2, and other chemicals out of the crankcase so as not to contaminate the engine oil. If the PCV system is not operating properly H2O will collect in the valve cover and be forced into the air cleaner assembly. Cold weather will make matters worse.

How to Check Vehicle Antifreeze/ Refrigerant:Coolant or Water?

Testing Antifreeze in vehicle

How do you check the antifreeze and water mixture in the radiator for corrosion?


I will mention the procedure we use at out garage.As per our auto garage experience,

The easiest and simplest manual procedure i will provide.

At shop we use test strips that report the concentration of anti-freeze and the acidity of the coolant. These test strips can be found in most automotive parts stores and are really easy to use. You just dip the test strips in the coolant and compare the color of the test strip to the chart on the bottle they come in. It is a quick and reliable test and lets you know if the acidity of the coolant is at a damaging level. If the coolant is too acidic, the system must be drained and refilled with a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water. You should test the acidity of your vehicle's cooling system every oil change.


 

Various warning lights are coming up on dashboard

A LOT OF ON DASH WARNING LIGHTS ON VEHICLE

How to troubleshoot vehicles warning light

Vehicle's service engine light was on for a week, I thought it was because I did not put the gas cap on properly. As per vehicles owners manual it should take about 3 cycles for the light to go out. After a week the light was still on, so I took it to the dealership, they did a diagnostic test and said the 02 sensor skipped. They reset the computer so that the engine light went out. A week later, the engine light is back on, afterwards the battery light came on and shortly after that the ABS indicator light came on. As I was driving home the radio went out and the lights inside the car started to dim. After shutting the car off, I tried to restart and it wouldn’t. The headlights did come on. I noticed as I put the security alarm on the car, it sounded weak. 
Any better idea of what may be wrong with this vehicle, so that I can trust, when I take it to the shop, I have some sort of idea what is going on with the vehicle.


Its a random issue,there are multiple possibilities to cause these problem

It’s very unlikely that the check engine light from the week before is related to the problem you’re having now. As per the problem  described I suggest to test charging system of the vehicle.It seems that the charging system on your vehicle has failed. The first indicator was the battery warning light. The job of the charging system is to provide electrical power for the vehicle’s needs and replenish the battery. The main job of the battery is to store electrical power for starting the engine. After the engine is running the charging system takes over. In the event of a charging system failure the vehicle’s electrical demands are supplied by the battery. On today’s vehicles it doesn’t take long for the battery to drain to the point that other computer systems take notice. When they see that the power supply to them is too low to operate correctly the other computers start complaining which would explain your ABS warning light. As the battery gets lower the radio will drop out, which is just about the time the engine computer will start thinking about throwing in the towel. At this point the battery has about enough power to light some lights but wouldn’t even think about cranking the engine over. The fix for your vehicle is likely a new alternator. Once you’re up and going the check engine light may come back on because of the O2 sensor problem, but that won’t kill the battery.

How to retrieve OBD error codes without scan tool?

IS IT POSSIBLE TO ACCESS OBD ERROR CODES MANUALLY

Been in the automotive trade for  years, I’m an ASE triple master tech, and love computerized technology. My problem is tapping into the OBDII computer for diagnostic codes, like it was done with EEC, CCC, etc. At this time I am running a small shop on my own, part time, and cannot warrant the cost of big time diagnostic equipment. Is there a way to jump terminals or something to get into the newer systems to access error codes?? 


At present the simple answer is NO.
But you cannot challenge inventions,tricks and R&D .The procedure an any time get created.
Now a days newer vehicle’s computer systems have a new generation of advanced On Board Diagnostics which is affectionately referred to in our industry as OBD II. The reason of the OBD II system was to create a common data port, with a common protocol, for accessing information, primarily emissions related. The key word is integrated. The days of using a jumper wire or pin to flash codes from a vehicle’s computer is quickly fading away. If you wish to communicate with today’s vehicle computers you need to determine the level of information you want access to. The more information you want the more money you have to pay. A low dollar tool, for checking codes, turning off the Check Engine Light and with a wee bit of the computer info, cost around $300 to $400. For the privilege of the above, viewing more and opening a door or two to the computer jumps the price tag up to $2000 to $3000. Annual software updates range from $600 to $2000 and does not cover every vehicle. Now if you want the high, the book store, encyclopedia factory of information and the ability open all doors in today’s vehicle computers you need the vehicle manufacturer’s scan tool and software. Yeah it costs more but wow does this tool make things happen, but it only works on that manufacturer’s vehicle.

Thanks.

1991 vehicle with recalls

My vehicle is under recall

If I own a ‘91 vehicle with recalls can I bring it to a shop/dealership for repairs... and are they for free? 



First you have to understand that recalls come in different flavors; voluntary and safety. A recall will commonly have a time and/or mileage limitation. If the recall is a safety recall the age or ownership of the vehicle is not a factor. To have the repairs performed at no cost requires that the work be done at the dealer. In the event you have had safety related repairs performed prior to the announcement of the safety recall, manufacturers have historically reimbursed the vehicle owner for those repairs if they present their receipt of the repairs.

Consumers can get up-to-the-minute information on safety recall campaigns, or information on the recall history of a particular make and model of the car or truck, by calling the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Agency's toll-free Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236), or by accessing NHTSA on the Internet at www.nhtsa.dot.gov.


Thanks.