2004 Nissan maxima speedometer and odometer not working

Speedometer And Odometer Not Working

my 2004 Nissan maxima 3.5 SE speedometer and odometer stopping working...Every thing else on the cluster still works

 I went to auto zone and there scanner tool said P1574

Solution for this problem:

This is your Vehicle speed sensor , with both not working to tells me the speedometer ? cluster is okay .

The code also indicated the VSS .

Replace the sensor and it will start to work again /

Which one of the trans speed sensors did you replace .

Okay there are three sensors output input and vehicle speed sensor .

Was this the one replaced if not replace this sensor . 

this is back near the engine ,looks like you replaced the turbine speed sensor .

The one you need to replace is the sensor marked with a red oval ring

Auto lock system / alarm going off, car wont start

Auto lock system / alarm going off, car wont start

Nissan 02 altima

Its the factory auto door lock & alarm system,when I use the key chain lock/unlock its stooped working so when I use the key to open the door, the alarm go's off. I somehow got the horn to stop but now it won't start at all I think that the car's computer has shut down the stater as It's anit-theft mec. The vehicle wiil not start ! The alarm was activated, And I tried to turn it off by starting the vehicle, and now it won't start !

Nissan did not come out with auto lock till 2010. So if your doors auto lock, then the after market alarm is keeping the truck from starting.

Try this solution:----

Lets first do this and set the alarm and turn it off to make sure that isn't what is causing your problem. Do not use the remote, use the key. Open the drivers window.

Lock all the doors from the out side using the key at the drivers door. The security light should turn solid for about 20 seconds. Then start to blink. Leave the key in the door, and when the light starts to blink, reach in and unlock the door and open it. This will set off the factory alarm, then use the key in the door to unlock the door and that will turn it off. Then see if the truck starts.

Also let me know if the key is turning in the ignition and if the engine is turning over and not starting or if nothing happens when you turn the key.

This will help.
Thanks.

Ford lose power while driving uphills

car lose power while driving uphills

If the engine is running on all cylinders, runs fairly good overall but loses power on inclines or hills. I really have to lean to a possible blocked cat converter or one becoming blocked. The " honeycomb" material inside will break down over time and when it does, its causes a partial blockage, engine cant breathe and normally noticed under load lik up a hill but in most cases run ok otherwise. There is a tool to check back-pressure on each side of the cat converter to confirm but without one, I can only lean to one becoming blocked. In your case one would have to remove the cat, road test and if ok, then replace the converter. Due to age and miles, this is very possible the problem. they do degrade over time.

Another possibility bad gas can cause this, Most vehicles are hard to rid of old gas but I am fairly sure yours has a drain plug on the fuel tank. I would drain it, add good gas, maybe an additive and run it for a bit. It could be bad gas, cat converter or timing adjustment but tend to rule that out if it was ok and no one was affecting the timing. Running smooth and not misfiring leads more to fuel delivery or engine breathing. easiest and cheapest to start with fresh fuel.

Also I am thinking fuel pressure test. May have enough pressure to run engine ok at times but not enough when demand is high under load. Without fuel pressure gauge makes this hard to diagnose. Its a low pressure system so pressure would regulate to around 18 psi under load. Fuel filter replace may? be a bit of a clue as there is also a filter on the end of the fuel pump. Possible is is partially blocked or the pump is getting weak

=======

But if you have a rattling sound under your car, you likely have a catalytic converter that has come apart and is intermittently restricting your exhaust. Otherwise a bad airflow meter or just one that has carbon on the filaments is one suspect but I would not suggest just changing it. You could have it cleaned though. If it is a bad meter, sooner or later it will 'set a code' and your check engine light will come on. At that point your mechanic will have enough information to fix your car. 

The Mass air Flow meter is between the throttle body and the air filter. It measures the amount of air going into the engine. The computer uses this measurement to calculate the amount of gas to inject into the engine. A blocked converter will stop the exhaust from leaving the engine and that feels alot like no gas. If the exhaust cannot get out, fresh air cannot get in.

Honda CR-V hood release cable broken

CRV hood release cable is broken,

How do you reconnect the top of the hood release cable when the hood wont open
You can see the cable if you pull on the hood as far as it will go

2002 CRV hood release cable is broken, or disconnected at the latch end
How can I open the hood

If it's loose it either broke at the cable or the end piece.
You have to get to the back of the latch and move the release arm. I usually try and get under the vehicle and remove the plastic splash shield from the bottom and get a long screwdriver or something I can fish up from the bottom to that arm to "pop" it open. Here's a couple pictures showing the release arm and latch so you can see where they are located.






The release arm (marked B) will release the primary latch. Then you can release the second safety latch like normal. That arm needs to come down . I have this extra long radiator hose pick that's angled just right to grab it and then I pull down to pop it.


 in the first diagram the B label is actually what is facing down in the car. weird how the picture is angled. So when you say "pull down" you mean pull it toward the letter B in the picture. Right?
Do you pull down on the flange that appears to stick out behind (which is toward the back of the car, or the kind-of-hook-thing that is toward the front of the car? Any chance of a diagram of your tool? The sheild that B's arrow is touching appears to be in the way for navigating a tool into position. any further tips?

The ball at the end of the cable holds the cable to the lever or release arm. You need to pull that lever or release arm down in the picture just like it would naturally if the cable was working. The B is up and the A is down. It looks funny in the picture if you're not used to it. From below the car you'll be grabbing the lever or release arm with something and pulling down.

 It's like a rod with a bent end. Remember though sometimes you can get to the release arm through the grill so don't overlook that option. I always check out what I'm working on and how I can get it to release. Some you have to go from under some through the grill.

DONT LOOSE PATIENCE

We managed to break the button snaps that hold the grill without damaging the grill by prying up the hood about 1/2 inch. resulting in the need to buy a new latch mechanism. 

this is the bad about these cables when they break.

you will have to gain access from under the front splash shied area and manually release the latch. you will see the cable as it attaches to the latch.

TO gain access from under the front splash shield area.if you have a lift this is the best way.

you can use a long screw driver or what ever you can use to reach up their.

if you remove the lower front splash shield you will be able to do this.

ENA Micro 9 One Touch usermanual

ENA Micro 9 One Touch

Just copy paste this link and you can go through the manual

http://data.manualslib.com/pdf4/90/8981/898039-jura/ena_micro_9_one_touch.pdf?4faf0eed105c1e2d09c5e43b17e53d0a

Thanks.

Canon ir c.5185 error code IR5075N E400-0100

Canon copier error code

Power on error code E400.

E400-0100

can occur if the Communication Cables on the rear of the scanner are loose or improperly connected. Re-seat all the cables on the rear of the scanner.




Re-seat the cable going from the ADF CONTROLLER to MEMORY PCB. If E400 is still present it has been found that replacing the ADF Controller or MEMORY PCB may be necessary.

Honda crv whining noise

Honda crv whining noise while driving

Honda CRV is making a loud whining noise when I am driving, but the sound stops immediately when I step on the brake. What is it?

Normally this is caused by worn out brake pads, the wear sensor is contacting the brake rotor and causing the squeal that you are hearing. The squeal will stop when you apply the brakes. I would suggest having you brakes checked.

Screeching/Whine from engine

Sounds like the serpentine belt is squealing, possible bad pulley or belt tensioner, should take off the belt and inspect all the pulleys and replace as necessary, with a new belt.

CRV whining noise like hydraulic pump or air conditioner.

Ok the noise is under the hood not inside the vehicle correct ?

Ok then it's one of two issues. The serpentine belt tensioner is starting to fail. What happens is the bearing overtime in the tensioner starts to fail and causes this issue . When the a/c is on there's more stress on the tensioner that's why the noise gets louder. The other issue is a problem with the compressor clutch and coil. Seen these heat up when the a/c is on and also cause this noise to be louder. These are the most common issues for this noise . These need to be checked next . 

If its just the compressor clutch and coil they can replace that about 300 parts and labour . If the entire compressor is bad then it would run about 600 parts and labour . These are dealer prices and would be less at a shop 

Honda crv started making a whining noise. It starts when I start the car and stays even if I'm stopped and in idle or if I'm driving.

It is loud enough to hear inside the car and out, I would say pretty loud...it is coming from the front, under the hood, 

the noise is coming from the alternator. Would it cause a loud whining noise if it were going out?

Answer:

Yes it can. The bearings inside can go bad and make a whining noise for sure. If you take off the alternator belt and start the engine you can confirm that's the cause for sure. Hope that helps.