Learning To Drive A Car The Professional Way

Learning To Drive A Car The Professional Way

By Dhivya Rateesh Nair

Learning to drive a car is no more a luxury; it is more of a necessity. This has led to the rise of many driving schools with people flooding in to learn how to drive a car. Many others however prefer learning to drive all by themselves or aided by their friends or relatives. This is not a trusted method of learning because your friend may not know all the rules of driving themselves. He might not even teach you methodically. Driving has to be learnt properly and in a methodical manner which can be achieved by going to a driving school. It is just not enough to be passionate about driving you also need to be responsible as a lot of lives as well as your own are solely in the driver's hands. A small fault of yours can lead to sire consequences.

If you are very confident about your friend's knowledge and teaching skills then you may learn to drive supervised by your friend however it is vital that you have a few points in mind.

Things to remember when learning to drive on your own.


It is always better to learn to drive using a second-hand car. If you own a used car left by somebody in your family then make use of it. Learn to drive, become professionally qualified and then think about purchasing your own brand new car with all the gadgets and luxury. You would easily find a used car dealer who would be more than willing to show you a few of his cars.

The next point to keep in mind is to know the rules in and out. The safety of others and your own depends a lot on if you are following traffic rules meticulously. It is very important to drive safely so that you can avoid a lot of trouble.

You need to start off with a temporary license and when you are sure of having mastered the art then and only then get a permanent license. Never forget to carry your license along anywhere you go.

It is necessary for you to know how to control the steering and that is what you will need to master first. Any individual who knows to ride a two-wheeler would surely learn to balance a steering in no time. Take to one gear at a time. Start with the first gear and then move on to the others slowly.



These tips will ensure you master the art of driving meticulously without the help of a professional driving school teacher. Make sure you are equipped and follow the rules properly.


If you are not confident about learning to drive by yourself then leverage the help of Melbourne driving school who would give you affordable driving lessons Melbourne.

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Things To Know About Safety Equipment Used On Vehicles

Things To Know About Safety Equipment Used On Vehicles

By Luke Harper

If I name some of the most popular pieces of public safety equipment, the warning lights, siren speakers, push bumpers and grille lights of different types will come to mind. With the increasing rising risks for first responders, the need for these essential items is critical. There is a huge responsibility on the shoulders of police, fire fighters, and EMS for the safety of the public.

These products are used constantly; all having and meeting the same purpose, public safety. The light and sound systems used by the police and other first responders are a type of safety equipment.

Public safety radio and speakers

All through the hours of an emergency or patrolling, the police are largely dependent on their vehicle's flashing lights, emergency radio systems, sirens, and speakers. These devices are made to comply with and act perfectly during their emergency operations.

Though these devices are often left un-maintained, neglected, and taken for granted, but they indeed are an important utility that should be taken well care of. If these systems would not work properly, first responders and those they serve could be imperiled.

The manufacturers of public safety equipment incorporate unique features that ensure these perform their duties robustly, during the emergency hours.

Power backup - The first blueprint of public safety radio, which are nowadays installed in police vehicles, did not have any provision for power backup. Additionally, it would consume a large amount of energy, which used to affect the operations of the vehicle.

The safety radios and speakers of today come with smart design, which does not consume high levels of power and keeps them on for longer duration of time.

Water resistance - Lighting systems on vehicles are an electronic utility, and just like any other electronic device, they too can get affected with the water, moist and rainy weather conditions. To ensure the safety of lights, speakers and radio systems of the police vehicle, it is a must for them to be water resistant. They are assembled in casings that are watertight.

The feature of water tightness gives them a shield against the moisture occurring due to weather-borne conditions. On vehicles, the water tightness of the lights will have a chief role in the success of police operations, especially during night hours.

Frequent maintenance - Last but not the least, the lights, radio systems, alarms, sirens, and speakers should be properly and routinely checked, and adequate measures should be taken to keep them working and in well-maintained condition. Though the systems of the present generation are usually water-resistant, yet that does not imply that they will be working perfectly well in moist surroundings. They need to be check at frequent intervals, and as some discrepancy is experienced in their operations, they should be sent for service and repair.


Public safety equipment plays a key role in maintaining the safety of people, without any violence such as police sirens, speakers and lights. The article discusses some important points that you should know about these systems.

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Guidelines for Safe Use of Vehicle Recovery Snatch Straps

Guidelines for Safe Use of Vehicle Recovery Snatch Straps

By Alex Stojanovski

GENERAL INFORMATION

Recovery straps are made from 100% nylon webbing that can stretch under load and recoil back to almost its original length. The combination of the recovery vehicle pull and the tension in the strap creates a 'snatching' effect that can pull a stranded vehicle free from being bogged or unable to move under its own power. Always adhere to safe operating procedures and guidelines. When used in accordance with these guidelines, vehicles may be recovered with minimal risk of injury to people or damage to vehicles and equipment.

KEY INFORMATION AND SAFETY RECOMMENDATIONS

1. Check the strap and its packaging for the stated Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS).

2. It is recommended that the minimum breaking strength of the strap should be between 2 and 3 times the vehicle's gross vehicle mass (GVM) (the weight of the vehicle and any people, accessories and supplies); and

3. The strap must be suited to the GVM of the lighter of the two vehicles used in the recovery process.

4. Persons intending to use the strap should consider completing a nationally recognised four wheel drive training course or contact a four wheel drive club for comprehensive advice on the proper selection and use of the strap.

5. The strap must not be used for lifting or conventional towing.

6. Persons intending to use the strap must ensure that the strap is not damaged and is in usable condition.

7. The strap's strength and stretch are reduced when the strap is saturated.

8. Something like a recovery damper, heavy bag or blanket must be draped over the strap during use to reduce any unintentional rebound of the strap.

9. While the strap is being used, persons situated outside the motor vehicles involved in the recovery process must -

(A) be kept at a safe distance (recommended as at least 1.5 times the length of the unstretched strap) from either of the vehicles involved in the recovery process; and 

(B) never situate themselves within the path of the vehicle performing the recovery.

'WARNING - Always follow product instructions. It is important to correctly attach the motor vehicle recovery strap to a motor vehicle. A standard tow ball or vehicle tie-down point is not designed for this purpose and may result in the strap or a vehicle component detaching from a motor vehicle and striking and seriously injuring or killing a person. Only attach the strap to a vehicle recovery point or device that is suitably rated for use with the strap. Incorrect use has previously resulted in serious injury and death.'

IMPORTANT NOTE

1. Never attempt to recover a vehicle without all the necessary equipment. 

2. Only use equipment that is properly rated for the particular situation. If in doubt, don't use it. 

3. Never exceed the Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) of the strap or the Working Load Limit (WLL) of shackles. 

4. Check your vehicle manufacturer's hand book for recovery point locations.

SELECTING THE RIGHT RECOVERY STRAP

It is very important the correctly rated strap is used. A strap with a 'too light' breaking strength may break under load. A strap with 'too heavy' a breaking strength may not stretch properly and more stress will be placed on the recovery points, possibly causing damage or injury. The Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) of the strap should be between 2 and 3 times the Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) of the lighter of the two vehicles used in the recovery process. Be aware that the recovery strap will be under greater load if the vehicle is bogged in mud, sand or heavily loaded. If the GVM is not stated on the identification plate of a vehicle or its registration certificate it could be available from the owner's handbook or from the vehicle manufacturer.

KEEPING PEOPLE SAFE

Only the persons involved in the recovery should be in either of the vehicles. Ensure bystanders stay a safe distance away of at least 1.5 times the length of the unstretched strap in the opposite direction. NEVER stand between vehicles connected by a recovery strap.

PREPARING FOR THE RECOVERY

Carefully assess the circumstances of the stranded vehicle. If it has bottomed out, clear under the vehicle body so it rests on its wheels. The recovery vehicle should be placed in line (no more than 10° off the straight line) with the stranded vehicle, for either a forward or reverse recovery operation. Distance between vehicles should be 2-3 metres less than the unstretched length of the recovery strap. Establish agreed signals between the vehicle drivers, by radio (preferably), hand signals or vehicle horn.

CONNECTING THE RECOVERY STRAP

Carefully inspect the recovery strap to determine that it is in good condition. If the strap is wet, dirty, cut or chaffed, it will not perform properly. A wet strap may be 20% under strength, a damaged strap may break. Do not allow the strap to come into with contact hot surfaces or sharp edges. Roll the strap out between the vehicles, making sure there are no twists or knots. Leave about 2-3 metres slack between the vehicles. The joining of straps should be avoided wherever possible (Retailers carry varying lengths of straps). NEVER USE A METAL OBJECT to join two straps together - if the strap breaks it can become a lethal missile and cause damage or injury.

Check your vehicle manufacturer's hand book for recovery point locations, or use correctly rated and fitted aftermarket recovery points. DO NOT CONNECT TO A TOW BALL OR TIE DOWN POINT. Connect recovery strap to recovery point; for any recovery point requiring the use of a shackle to attach the strap, use only load rated shackles. Only connect to correctly rated recovery points on the vehicles, with only 'Load Rated' shackles. Load ratings are marked on shackles as WLL (Working Load Limit). Bow Shackles are suitable for this purpose and should be rated at least 3.25t. To correctly tighten shackle pins, screw the pin until it seats then back off about ½ to 1 turn. Over tightening may lead to seized pins, due to the force exerted during recovery operations. To reduce the risk of a vehicle being damaged and person injured, hang a suitable recovery damper blanket over the recovery strap approximately midway to absorb the recoil action of a strap should it break.

REMINDER: Check all connections again and clear bystanders to a safe distance (at least 1.5 times the length of the unstretched strap) to the side of the recovery operation and NEVER in the line of recovery.

PERFORMING THE RECOVERY

1. Before the recovery operation drivers must agree on the point to which the stranded vehicle is to be recovered and the signal (radio, hand signal or horn blast) when that point is reached.

2. With communications maintained between both vehicles, and recovery strap secure, the recovery vehicle should gently accelerate, taking up the slack and proceeding at no faster than 10-12kph. For best results the stranded vehicle should be in 1st gear (or 2nd Low), and the driver should assist the recovery by trying to drive out approximately 3 seconds from when the recovery vehicle moves off.

3. If the vehicle is not recovered on the first attempt, check under the stranded vehicle, again, for obstacles, reset the slack in the recovery strap and try a little more speed by the recovery vehicle.

4. NOTE: Excessive speed or continual jerking action whilst using a recovery strap may result in damage to the recovery point, chassis and drive line of both vehicles.

5. When the stranded vehicle reaches the agreed point the driver should advise and the recovery vehicle should stop, then the stranded vehicle should stop.

6. Where proper use of a Recovery strap is unsuccessful, use an appropriate sized recovery winch.

7. Do not attempt to remove the strap until both vehicles are stationary and secured.

NOTE: Recovery straps require rest periods between use to return to their original length and capacity. Excessive pulls over a short period of time can cause build-up of heat and possible failure.

CAUTION: Always follow the recovery strap Guidelines for safe use.

GENERAL CARE AND MAINTENANCE

1. Never allow your strap to rub against sharp or hot surfaces. 

2. Avoid twists & kinks in the webbing. 

3. Always coil your strap during storage. 

4. Clean your strap in warm water with a mild detergent and allow to thoroughly dry before storage. 

5. Foreign material such as sand and grit can permanently damage the strap fibres. 

6. Be aware that a strap can lose up to 20% of its strength when wet. 

7. Inspect the entire length of any straps for nicks and cuts before and after use. If damaged, straps should be replaced. 

8. Never use the strap as a lifting device. 

9. Inspect shackles for damage. Pins that are hard to turn suggest that the shackle has been overstressed and should be replaced.

Visit our store to view our range of recovery straps at https://www.hulk4x4.com

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Connected Cars Offer Something For Everyone to Like

Connected Cars Offer Something For Everyone to Like

By Ernest B Bray

And Worry About.

The smart money is betting that sales of smart cars will explode, but concerns about privacy, cybersecurity, average sticker price and embedded vs. smart phone connectivity are also growing as connected cars move from the realm of science fiction to everyday fact.

Although most drivers can't afford the $55,000 average cost of today's connected car, many analysts believe prices will fall significantly in the next few years. As a result, Gartner predicts that 250 million connected cars will be rolling on the world's roads by 2020, while a BI Intelligence report forecasts that 75 percent of the 92 million cars shipped globally in 2020 will be built with internet connection hardware.

IHS Automotive predicted that in 2015 nearly twenty percent of all cars sold globally will include some connectivity.

Despite the higher price, consumers are already sold on the benefits of cars with in-vehicle technology. Thirty-nine percent of car buyers say such technology is a top selling point, according to a study by Accenture. This is more than twice the number (14 percent) who say "traditional" performance measures such as power and speed are their top priority.

For now, the technology connecting smart cars to the Internet (and often Wi-Fi) is split between systems embedded by the auto manufacturers and those driven by devices such as smart phones. Most analysts believe embedded connectivity will eventually dominate, especially as prices decline, because it will let automakers and insurers collect key performance, safety and driving data. In the short term, however, many consumers will probably rely on smartphones to access features and functions that include infotainment, remote door unlocking, navigation systems, weather and traffic alerts and problem-diagnosis tools.

Despite widespread optimism about the enhanced safety and convenience promised by connected cars, the federal government and some consumer groups worry that the vast amounts of data collected and transmitted between various parties could threaten individual privacy and even safety.

Recently, members of the House Energy and Commerce Committee issued letters to 17 carmakers and the National Highway Transportation and Safety Administration requesting details of the cybersecurity measures they plan to take to prevent hackers from accessing smart cars' safety and communications systems. In addition to fears that hackers could collect personal information stored in the cars, some people worry that criminals could actually wrest control of smart cars, disabling critical systems such as brakes and steering.

Although these fears might sound like something invented by a Hollywood screenwriter, researchers affiliated with the Center for Automotive Embedded Systems demonstrated in 2010 that it's possible to take over all of a car's vital systems. In 2011, the same researchers showed how to remotely take control of a vehicle through its telematics systems. Just this past Friday, Fiat Chrysler announced it will recall 1.4 million cars and trucks to protect them from hacking after Wired magazine did a piece on how hackers could remotely hijack a Jeep over the internet.

In response to concerns about the unregulated collection and sharing of sensitive personal data by legitimate companies, Triple A has proposed a sort of Bill of Consumer Rights to the Federal Transportation Commission. They proposed that consumers receive the right to know what information is collected and how it's used, the right to decide whether to share certain data, and the right to expect that their vehicles' data systems are protected against unauthorized access.

This is definitely a topic that will see quite of bit of action and we should all stay tuned in.

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The Fine Prints of Vehicle Leasing Contract Rules Zoomed

The Fine Prints of Vehicle Leasing Contract Rules Zoomed

By Terrence Lewis

Vehicle leasing has been a popular drive among the masses since the last two decades. An infinite count of up-and-coming business enterprisers prefer to hold vehicles on lease as opposed to purchasing. While that is a justified shift in the trend, interested lessees are still requested to stop to buckle themselves up with the required knowledge before taking the leap.

A Foreword

Though terms vary minutely from one dealer to another, and that beyond a shadow of doubt should not be belittled, they more or else have the same sense. The terms are mostly divided into four different heads, namely, the down payment, monthly installments, mileage restrictions and car maintenance. There is also a slot dedicated to contingencies and the fine prints there should not be flipped over.

The Upfront Deposit

This sum is decided on the current net worth of the chosen vehicle. The upfront cost of the lease is a cumulative figure of the monthly installments of the subsequent months. It is recommended that you haggle with your dealer, if it so requires to bring it down to as low as possible. Since it's a leasing deal for you, it is preferable that you do not have to cough out a lump sum and lurch all the way through the rest of the year. Regardless, this is a one-time payment and is adjusted with the premiums of the ending months of the contract.

The Recurrent Cost

In the United Kingdom, the vehicular leasing contracts very between 1, 2, 3 and 4 year. The premium calculation needs the duration to be broken down to months for which you are keeping the vehicle. The market worth of the vehicle is divided by the number of months the contract spans over. To that VAT and depreciation costs estimated over the specified time period are added. The final cost is what you pay in installments over the months. The payment has to be made within a given date every month to continue the contract.

Miles Per Contract

All contracts are mile-bound and there can be no exception. At the time of the contract, the number of miles is set in the paper. You can use your mileage distributing it throughout the years of use, or can do so in a month or anything that suits you. The dealers only keep a tab of the number and nothing more.

Asset Servicing:

You can sign up for a maintenance package with the dealer so that the vehicle is serviced timely during your term of use. However, this package does not cover for the accidental damages.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/9167128

Trunk light switch camry

Trunk light switch

You can order Trunk light switch here


How to troubleshoot and fix the trunk light Switch On Camry

Disclaimer 
Use this guide at your own risk! I assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide. Any comments to improve the procedure will be gratefully received.

Time Required
It took me 2 hours from start to finish, including the time to take photos and make notes. If I had to do it again, I think I could cut this down to 1 hour or less.

Tools Required:
Simple hand tools and a multimeter.



Let’s Get Started!


1. Remove clear plastic cover from the trunk light. It is held in place by four snaps. It is a bit tough to pull off. If necessary, use a thin flat screw driver to gently pry it off. Note that the cover is not symmetrical. The snaps on one side are spaced further apart than the other side. You will need to pay attention to this when replacing the cover.


2. Pull the light bulb out of the socket and check for continuity (resistance) across the bulb. FYI. the bulb looks like a fuse and is marked Kioto 12V3W. In my case the bulb was good. 


3. Measure the voltage between one side of the bulb holder (red arrow) and ground. It should read 12V. Mine did. This means that the bulb is getting power from the fuse.


4. Measure the voltage across the bulb holder (ie. Between the red arrow and the green arrow). With the trunk open, it should read 12V. Min read 412mV or about ½ a volt. This means that that either the switch is not working correctly or there is a break in the wire between the bulb and the switch.





5. Remove the “carpet” cover on the inside of the trunk. There are 15 plastic snaps (including on under the emergency trunk release lever) holding it in place. I did not have a special tool to remove them, so I gently pried them out with my side cutters. I could not get my “glow in the dark” emergency trunk release lever off, so I just cut a few slits in the cover to facilitate removal of the cover.



6. Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing down on the latch (red arrow) and pulling on the connector.


7. There are two male pins inside the connector. Check the continuity between right pin (green arrow) and ground. With the trunk open, there should be continuity (ie. a closed connection) between the right pin and ground. On mine, there was no continuity (ie. a open connection), indicating that the contacts in the switch were not closing properly or there was a break in the wiring somewhere. In order to further troubleshoot, it was necessary to remove the entire trunk latch assembly by following the instructions below.


8. Remove the two 10mm bolts (red arrows) securing the latch assembly to the trunk lid.






9. Disconnect the linkage arm from the emergency release handle by rotating the black plastic connector and then dropping the rod.







10. Disconnect the linkage arm from the key release mechanism by rotating the red plastic connector and then dropping the rod.







11. Open the black plastic cover. It is hinged with latches on both sides and slide the plastic cover off of the latch mechanism.




12. In the unlatched state (ie trunk open) as shown above, the contacts (red arrow) are closed. This closes the circuit so that the trunk light turns on. I checked this with my multimeter and there was continuity (ie. Low resistance) between the pin on the connector and ground, indicating that the switch was working correctly.




13. Using a small screwdriver to move the trunk latch to the latched state (ie trunk open), as shown above, the contacts opened. This opens the circuit so that the trunk light turns off. I checked this with my multimeter and the circuit was open, indicating that the switch was working correctly.




14. Upon closer examination, I determined that the copper strip on the switch assembly (red arrow) was not mating correctly with the copper strip on the motor assembly (green arrow). As a result the connection was open the whole time. This ended up being the source of the problem.



15. To correct this problem, I removed the motor assembly (four Philips screws), and reassembled the motor such that the copper connectors were properly mating.




16. After reassembly, I checked with my multimeter. With the assembly “unlatched”, simulating an open trunk, there was continuity (ie. a closed circuit)....




17. ...and with the assembly “latched”, simulating a closed trunk, there was no continuity (ie. an open circuit). Reinstall the latch assembly into the trunk and test before replacing the cover.





18. Voila! We now have light in the trunk. Just to be sure that the light would turn off when the trunk was closed, I simulated a closed trunk by using a small screwdriver to close the latch. It worked fine. Tug on the emergency lever to “unlatch” the assembly and re-install the cover. Install the light bulb and clear plastic cover. Thats it! That is all there is to it!

volvo v70 2002 is showing the warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd'

volvo warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd'

volvo v70 2002 is showing the warning 'abs/anti-skid service reqd', also the driver side front wheel makes a screeching sound not unlike worn down pads on discs when making a right or left

The vehicle has done 170k miles and I replaced the water pump and belts in March 2011. However, I did not refit the plastic inner wing till Nov of 2011. Could this have anything to do with noises and warnings I am now receiving. I guess I am keen to know if the problems are wheel speed sensors or ABS/ECU issues.

Get that car Jacked up and pull the wheel and do a very close inspection. It could be any thing from a rock in the Caliper, to loose wheel bearings to bad brake pads to a bad CV Joint.Inspect for where there is any fresh wear or grind marks on your suspension to check for integrity. Also if you have run over a piece of wire it could be wrapped up int he CV axle.

Inspect the brakes/suspension first. If pads and suspension are ok then have the ABS system scanned for faults. You have either a bad wheel speed sensor activating the ABS or a bad ABS module. Volvo has lots of issues with this. The ABS/Tracs control module has solder joints that go bad in the control module 99% of the time it is the issue. Have the module repaired/replaced.

any noise coming from the front wheel while turning leaves me thinking front constant velocity joint if the car is front wheel drive. With the abs light on I would take down the front driver side wheel and check the brakes for wear along with the front wheel bearing assembly for play or loosness, Check for the sensors to make sure they havent came off and are rubbing your rotors as you make your turn. It can be a number of things. Usually when its the front constant velocity joint it makes a popping noise as if something is binding. As for the front wheel bearing assembly it could make noises usually after the car has been ran down the road and heated up the bearing then it will sing to you. But as you mentioned about the noise only during turning I would lean towards constant velocity joint or sensor hanging and rubbing the rotor, Its only one way to find out. Hope this helps.