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Friday, 3 July 2015

Blinking light on dash board

Blinking light on dash board



I have a arrow blinking on my dash board. It does'nt blink all the time but when it does, the car seem to start out in 4th or 5th gear. I have a 1999 volvo s70



It may be possible that your Park Neutral Position Switch (PNP Switch) is getting ready to fail. The switch is located right on top of your transmission and is connected to your shifter. This is a common problem. I doubt that your entire transmission is failing, because that is rare with the S70 line. Has your check engine light come on? The check engine light can be triggered by the failing PNP switch. You should take the car to a autozone if you do not have a code reader to see if this problem is sending a code to the computer. If you are unsure where the port is for the code reader, it is located inside of the center console armrest and has OBD II on it. It will same something such as Transmission position switch failure....if I can remember correctly when it happened to me. If it displays this message, then it is definitely the PNP switch failing. If the PNP is failing be careful. Mine failed failed when I pulled into a parking space and as soon as I put the car in park, the check engine light came on my and the red arrow started flashing. I thought something had gotten wet and I decided to turn the car off for a reset, however, it would not let me start the car, because it thought the car was in some other gear besides park or neutral. So you should have it fixed ASAP. If you order the parts online, it can be a cheap fix. fcpgroton.com has this switch for a cheap price with great quality. How many miles do you have on your S70? My switch failed at 110,500.


Are there any other lights on? It is common for the ABS module to fail on these cars. Other inputs are routed through the module. It will cause chk eng light, intermittent ABS light, and sometimes the blinking amber arrow. The upshift arrow would indicate that the transmission is in limp home mode. These lights are all most likely tied to the ABS module. These modules have soldering points on the internal circuit board that crack, causing the problems. There is a guy in California that repairs them--Vic Rocha, if that is your problem. He can be googled.

2001 Volvo V40 arrow warning light

2001 Volvo V40 arrow warning light


Turning on car, shifted hard into drive, then drove fine. However, the arrow auto transmission indicator on the dash is flashing.



Most likely the transmission range switch is failing. 
Have someone check the transmission computer for codes.

What does the arrow flashing on a s90 volvo dash board

Arrow flashing on a s90 volvo dash board



Engine/transmission fault. You can disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to clear the computer if it returns you have a problem.

Chevrolet: Just had my blower resistor go on my 2007 Silverado


Just had my blower resistor go on my 2007 Silverado (5th time). I wonder if the abs system is on the same circuit, local shop says the front hubs have play and the abs sensors don't work well.




Click the link below for solutions:
 http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/96cnr-chevrolet-just-blower-resistor-go-2007-silverado.html#ixzz3eocM9T2j

97 Chevy Suburban: 4wd..idling..the brake pedal, the engine..rough

97 Chevy Suburban: 4wd..idling..the brake pedal, the engine..rough



My parents have a 97 Chevy Suburban 4wd. The brakes are hard to push down on and require more pressure to stop the vehicle. Also, while idling and pressing the brake pedal, the engine runs very rough. I'm thinking that it is a vacuum leak of some sort. Could it be? Are there any simple test that I can do to narrow down the problem? Is there a check valve or some other thing that is common for a Suburban that can be replaced simply? Or could it be the master cylinder? Any help would be great. Thanks.


Check the link below for Answer:

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/2ivnt-parents-97-chevy-suburban-4wd-brakes-hard.html





the brake pedal, the engine..rough

the brake pedal, the engine..rough


Vacuum Booster

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION:


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figure 1
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Apply the parking brake.
  3. Unplug all necessary electrical connections.
  4. Remove the master cylinder from the booster and pull it off the studs, CAREFULLY! It is not necessary to disconnect the brake lines.
  5. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the check valve.
  6. If necessary, remove the brake light switch.
  7. Disconnect the booster pushrod at the brake pedal.
  8. Remove the booster mounting nuts, located on the inside of the firewall.



Click image to see an enlarged view 
Fig. Fig. 1: Vacuum booster mounting
  1. Lift off the booster and remove the gasket.

To install:
  1. Install the booster with a new gasket.
  2. Tighten the booster mounting nuts to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) on all except 1996-98 models. On 1996-98 models, tighten the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (36 Nm).
  3. Install all remaining components.

Brake Power Booster

Showing 1 - 2 of 2 Items
Sort by Price: High High Low Low --- Select a Brand --- Cardone Reman Cardone Reman / Brake Power Booster Part Number:
54-71085   Price: $125.99
Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $28.00
Total: $153.99 Application:
With JB5, JB6 and JB7 brake system
Warranty:
LLT Notes: W/o master cylinder
STORE PICK UP IN STOCK SHIP TO HOME AVAILABLE  Cardone Reman / Brake Power Booster Part Number:
52-7358   Price: $176.99
Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $46.00
Total: $222.99 Application:
With JB8 brake system
Warranty:


when you press on brake pedal the idle goes way down and you can hear air

I have a 1985 chevette when you press on brake pedal the idle goes way down and you can hear air. But the air leak is not coming from the brake pedal. It has standard brakes



The brake booster operates on a vacuum created by the engine. There is a thick wall hose connecting the inlet manifold to the booster. The booster has a non return valve in it which allows a couple of pumps of the pedal in the event of the engine stalling. This should allow you to bring the car to a safe stop. You don't say if the brake pedal feels normal but the change in idle is caused by you operating the booster. My guess is that the air noise you can hear is a leak in the hose or the booster itself. This may require the assistance of a good DIY mechanic to determine which it is. Make sure you get the correct thick wall hose if its that, that is faulty, because any normal hose will be sucked flat by the vacuum and you will have no brakes!! Should the hose be OK and the booster be the noise you can hear then replacement is the only option. A quick call to a parts house with the vehicle details will soon tell you. If you think about it your car is 30 years old, pretty good going really.


It looks like the brake power booster is defective. A vacuum problem. You say it has standard breaks. Then the brake pedal lever is somehow interrupting a vacuum hose.

Some part of the brake linkage must be pressing on a vacuum hose. Check under dash as well as under hood.