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Tuesday, 5 February 2013

Quality Gasoline For Vehicle

How To Know About Quality Of Gas Used For Vehicle

Buying Cheaper Gasoline For Car


Q: In  New Hampshire few Wholesale Food Clubs  sell gasoline at least 10 cents a gallon less than brand names. How can they do that and can this product be harmful to an engine?....Gerald.

A: First, ask yourself why you go to the Wholesale Club to buy their product? The answer more often than not is price. When a company as big as these wholesaler's want to buy product they have unsurpassed buying power. They go directly to the manufacturer and order, not a truck load, but train loads of product. As for gasoline? Buying power, combined with volume of sales, allows for the pricing you're seeing. There are state and federal laws that govern gasoline. The manufacturer and retailer of gasoline are open to a big pile of trouble if the gasoline being sold is mislabeled or does not meet state and federal standards. Hey, whenever I'm buying a 40lb bag of cheese curls I fill my gas tank too!

Washer Fluid In The Radiator

Accidentally poured windshield fluid in radiator


Q: I accidentally pour windshield fluid into my radiator. Has it caused major damage? Do I need to take it to a mechanic right away?

A: It's not a good thing to mix coolant with window washer fluid. You should also know that you are not the first and you will not be the last person to perform such a wondrous feat. My suggestion? Take your vehicle to your repair facility and have them drain and refill the cooling system, don't forget the coolant reservoir too. Just be thankful you didn't put anti-freeze in the windshield washer reservoir. That stuff really makes a mess of the windshield.

How To Turn OFF "check engine light"

Check engine light reset



Q: Please Tell  how to turn off my "Check Engine" light? For 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 L. An auto parts store guy read the code for me, and said he thought it would turn off after about 15 or so "drive cycles". Any truth to that?



A: The “Check Engine” will turn off by itself if the problem is no longer present after about 3 drive cycles. Each time your vehicle is started and driven the computer’s software commands a wide variety of tests to be performed and monitors various sensors while the vehicle is being driven. A drive cycle is when the vehicle/engine sets long enough for the coolant to drop below a specified temperature. Then the engine is started and the vehicle is driven at different speeds and allowed to reach full operating temperature. The reason for this? The computer not only tests the system, it also monitors for range of operation. Certain tests can only be performed when the engine is cold while others are performed when the engine is hot. Each time the engine is started the computer performs over a hundred checks and tests of your vehicle’s emissions system, which includes the automatic transmission too. If your problem has been corrected, generally the “Check Engine” light will turn off within a day or two of normal driving. If the light does not turn off, there is a system problem and diagnosis is needed.

Gas Gauge Acts Crazy

Gas Gauge Not Performing right



Jeep Grand Cherokee, Nut'zy Gas Gauge

Q: The gas gauge on 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee will drop to empty then return to 3/4 to 1/2 tank every so often or until I fill it up or the gauge goes below half tank. The dealer said I need a new pump but there isn't anything else going on. Any suggestions?

- Salvatore T.

A: Your vehicle is notorious for gas gauge problems. In fact, there was a safety recall that affected about 400,000 Jeeps including the Jeep Grand Cherokee built in ‘97. The problem was the gas gauge would report that there was enough fuel when, in reality, there was not enough fuel and the vehicle would be dead on the side of the road. I’m not sure that your Jeep qualifies for this recall but it is worth checking into. Also, you’re not being told the whole story. If your Jeep dealer checks his/her Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) they will find TSB# 08-19-97 that provides the part number for a replacement fuel sending unit that is sold separately. The TSB goes on to identify which of the 3 possible replacement part numbers that would fit your Jeep. The gas tank still has to be removed to service this part, but it is at a considerable savings to the vehicle owner compared to buying the complete fuel pump module. The fuel pump module is a new fuel pump and sending unit all together and is a bit on the pricey side. One last note, if your fuel pump has 100k and has not be replaced I would suggest installing the complete module. About any fuel pump with that kind of mileage is living on borrowed time.

Brakes are ratcheting and makes clicking sound

Brake Ratchet and Makes Clicking noise



Q: I changed the ball joints on 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 wheel drive. After that  brakes act strange. It seems my ABS is acting up and I hear a clicking sound as I increase in speed.When I apply the brakes it sounds like my brakes are ratcheting.


A: Take a look at the front axles of your jeep just where they enter the hub assembly. You should see a part that looks like a gear that is mounted on the axle. That gear is called a toner ring. As the teeth/gear looking part of the toner ring pass by the wheel speed sensor, a signal is created that the ABS system uses to monitor wheel speed. If a tooth is broken off the gear, the ABS computer will think that the wheel is turning at a different speed. This will cause the ABS computer to become active when it doesn't have to be. It doesn't take much to mess up the toner ring or even the sensor. I would suggest a close inspection of these components on both sides of the vehicle for possible damage. Any signs of damage will require replacement of the sensor, or if the toner ring is damaged the axle will have to be replaced. The toner ring is not sold separately.

Squeaking Brakes

Jeep Cherokee Brake Squeaks


Q: Brake job done on our 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee back in April of 1998. A few weeks later I went back because the brakes were squealing. They said, "It's supposed to sound like that because there is no more asbestos in the brakes". They also said, "It will wear off after I run the car a while and put on a few miles". I recently took it back again in June of this year. Again they said, "Nothing is wrong, they are suppose to squeal". I asked them," How come the brakes don't squeal on the new cars in this lot?" No reply! My question to you. What do you think? Is there anything I can do about this?... Squeaking brakes!!!!!!!

A: Well, you've got them. The brakes are not supposed to squeal on your vehicle, but the noise doesn't mean the brakes are unsafe, there could be other factors. The squealing noise is an indication that not all the necessary procedures were followed while the brake job was being performed, or that the friction material used on the brakes was of questionable quality. The high frequency squealing sound, when braking, is caused by brake pads vibrating. Improper assembly procedures are the most common cause for brake squeal. Proper inspection, preparation, cleaning and lubrication of braking components is critical in preventing brake squeal. Also, realize that not all braking materials, brake pads or shoes, are created equal. Discount brake pads or shoes are not of the same quality engineering and material as original equipment or quality aftermarket brakes. It's like re-capped tires compared to radials tires. They both do the same job but...

Repetitive Brake Problems

Brake Issues Occur Again n Again on Jeep



Regarding Jeep Grand Cherokee, Brake Problems
Q: My vehicle is 97 Grand Cherokee with 55k miles. Wee just replaced 4th set of  brakes put on including the original set. The rotors and pads were replaced each time. That equals a new set approximately every 14k miles. It is driven in very mild conditions around town with no heavy braking. It always has the same problem. The brakes feel like they engage and disengage as you come to a stop. It gives a slow pulsing sensation.

The first evaluation always offered is warped rotors. The problem is that immediately after a brake job you still can feel this problem. It’s milder at first and then becomes more pronounced as time goes on. I also know it has nothing to do with the rear brakes because if you use the hand brake to stop you don’t get the symptom.

The second theory is some type of ABS malfunction.This has been completely dismissed by the dealer.

Any idea what the problem could be??

A: How about checking the hub that the brake rotors are mounted on? Just the day of answering your letter we a had a Mercury Crown Vic in the shop that had a brake pulsation complaint. Diagnosis indicated that the front brake rotors were the problem. From what we were told, they had been a problem for sometime. As often as possible we’ll machine the brake rotors on the vehicle. When the equipment was installed on the vehicle to machine the rotors there was a problem. The computer, yes we used computerized equipment to perform this task, was at a loss. It could not calibrate itself properly, meaning it needed help from a carbon based life form (humans). Inspection found that the hub that the brake rotor set on was off by .003" of an inch. Now .003" of an inch is just about 2 hairs stacked. That’s not much you may say. But, in the world of brakes that adds up to a lot when you carry that line out another 4 to 5". My point is that no matter how many brake rotors are installed on this vehicle the brakes will always end up pulsating,, which could very well be the problem with your vehicle. They just have to look deeper. As for the Crown Vic, there is no silicone based form (computer) that can problem solve the way the carbon forms do.