How to Replace the Break Booster on a Chevrolet Silverado

How to Replace the Break Booster on a Chevrolet Silverado

The Chevy Silverado´s braking system operates with disc brakes, which require the use of power brake boosters. Prior to disc brakes, stopping a truck required much more effort compared to the modern systems that take advantage of a vacuum created by the truck´s engine. Just like any truck part, the brake booster undergoes normal wear and tear and can lose its capacity to assist in braking. When this occurs, it is time to replace the brake booster and regain your truck´s braking ability.

Things You'll Need
Socket wrench
Flashlight
Screwdriver

Instructions

1. Lift the hood of the truck and locate the master brake cylinder -- it is located on the firewall, opposite of where the brake pedal is in the cabin of the truck. You can identify the master brake cylinder by the brake lines that are attached to it; these brake lines run from the brake linkage through the truck´s firewall and connect the brake booster to the master brake cylinder. Use a socket wrench to disconnect the master brake cylinder from the firewall, after which you will be able to disconnect the vacuum line that runs into the brake booster -- this will isolate the booster so that it can be removed later.
2. Position yourself under the truck´s dashboard so that you can access the brake pedal. Using a flashlight, look directly above the brake pedal. You will see a small metal plate on the bottom of the dashboard, where the brake linkage connects the brake pedal to the piston of the master brake cylinder. This plate is held to the bottom of the dish with screws -- remove the screws with a screwdriver and pull off the plate.
3. Remove the bolts that are located behind the brake pedal. These bolts hold the brake booster to firewall. Go back under the hood and remove the brake booster and gasket from the firewall. After this, you can install the new gasket and brake booster -- push the gasket and then the brake booster into the firewall where the old booster was located and then go back under the dashboard to secure the booster in place with the bolts that were previously removed.
4. Re-attach the vacuum line to the new brake booster and then bolt the master brake cylinder back onto the firewall. After you have done this, re-attach the metal plate under the dashboard to re-establish the connection between the brake pedal and the master brake cylinder.

How to Change a Brake Booster

How to Change a Brake Booster

The vacuum type brake booster on your vehicle multiplies the force you apply to the brake pedal to slow or stop the car. Engine vacuum acts on a diaphragm inside the booster, pushing a rod into the master cylinder to create the necessary pressure in the brake system. This booster diaphragm may develop punctures and other related mechanical failures after years of service. A failing booster may hinder your ability to brake making necessary to change the unit.

Things You'll Need

Nose pliers

Ratchet and socket

Ratchet extension

Slip joint pliers

Wrench

New cotter pin

Removing the Old Brake Booster

Park your car in a safe place with enough room to work around the front and driver side of the vehicle.

Locate the booster push rod connected to the brake pedal.

Remove the cotter pin securing the booster push rod pin to the brake pedal using a pair of nose pliers.

Release the push rod pin from the brake pedal and slide the push rod off the brake pedal.

Unscrew the four mounting nuts off the brake booster studs using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. You should be able to see the four booster studs extending through the firewall, in front of the brake pedal.

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster, working from the engine compartment. Use a pair of slip joint pliers.

Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.

Separate the brake master cylinder from the booster just enough to make room for booster removal.

Pull the brake booster off the firewall and remove it from the vehicle.

Installing the New Brake Booster

Set the new booster in place by sliding the push rod and four mounting studs through the mounting holes on the firewall.

Slide the brake master cylinder flange over the two mounting studs on the brake booster.

Start the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts by hand to avoid damage to the threads.

Tighten the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts using a wrench or ratchet and socket.

Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.

Screw the four mounting nuts to the brake booster working from inside the vehicle. Start the nuts by hand to avoid damaging the threads.

Tighten the four mounting nuts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

Position the brake booster push rod over the brake pedal and slide the push rod pin.

Install a new cotter pin to secure the booster push rod to the brake pedal.

How to Troubleshoot a Brake Vacuum Booster

How to Troubleshoot a Brake Vacuum Booster


The brake booster is a power braking system provided by a vacuum and hose mechanism attached to the system. This should, in theory, assist braking; however, if it is not working properly then you may find it actually makes pressing on the brake pedal to slow or stop the car much more difficult. Naturally, it is absolutely vital to remedy this potentially dangerous issue. There are steps you can take to diagnose and fix the problems.

Instructions
Pump the brake several times and hold the pedal down while attempting to start the engine. If the power brake is working, it will pull the pedal down further. If the pedal does not move, you have a problem. This confirms that you need to carry out a basic troubleshooting process.

Start the engine and check for vacuum in the hose. The engine should smooth out if you plug the hose end. If you don't feel the vacuum suction, the problem is a restricted vacuum port and this must be cleaned.

Attach the valve and hose to the brake booster and listen for any air leakage. This indicates a cracked booster, which you must have replaced for the mechanism to work properly.

Replace the booster if the brake still has no power assist and you have exhausted the previous steps.

How to Check a Brake Power Booster

How to Check a Brake Power Booster

A brake power booster is a vacuum operated device which reduces the effort needed to press the brake pedal and apply the brakes. In most cases the vacuum is created by the running engine and air is drawn from the booster through a rubber hose connected to the intake manifold. Diesel engines do not produce much vacuum and may employ a vacuum pump. High pedal effort and poor braking action indicate a problem with the booster or the vacuum system.

Things You'll Need
Vacuum gauge


Instructions
Depress the brake pedal repeatedly with the engine off.

Continue to hold the brake pedal down and start the engine. The brake pedal should be pulled down slightly after the engine starts. A problem with the brake booster or the vehicle vacuum system is indicated if the pedal does not pull down slightly.

Connect a vacuum gauge to the hose from the engine to the brake booster and start the engine. A reading of 16 inches or more of vacuum rules out a problem with the vacuum system and indicates the need to replace the brake booster.

How to Bleed Calipers on a 2008 Jeep Wrangler

How to Bleed Calipers on a 2008 Jeep Wrangler

Jeep produced the 2008 Wrangler in the X, Unlimited X, X RHD and Sahara trim levels. All of the Wrangler models were powered by a 202-horsepower, 3.8-liter, fuel-injected V-6 engine. The brake system used a vacuum booster to increase braking power while reducing effort at the pedal, and an anti-lock brake system for safety and improved traction control. Air bubbles trapped in the brake system can lead to spongy brakes and reduced braking performance, and must be purged to restore the brakes to their proper feel and performance.


Things You'll Need
Shop rags
Mopar DOT 3 Brake Fluid, meeting SAE J1703 requirements
Clear vinyl tubing
Open-end wrench
Clean container
Assistant


Instructions
Wipe the top of the brake fluid reservoir with a clean shop rag to remove any road grime that could contaminate the system. Remove the reservoir cap. Add fresh brake fluid until the fluid level reaches the "Full" mark. Pour some fresh fluid into a clean container.

Install a short length of clear vinyl tubing over the right rear caliper bleeder valve nipple. Lead the loose end into the clean container, and submerge the end of the hose in the brake fluid. Fit a six-point, box-end wrench onto the bleeder valve.

Instruct your helper to apply and hold steady pressure on the brake pedal, then open the bleeder valve approximately 1/2 turn to bleed the line. Close the bleeder valve and instruct your helper to release the brake pedal. Observe the fluid stream in the vinyl tubing, and repeat the bleeding process until the stream is clear and free of air bubbles. Top off the fluid level in the reservoir.

Repeat the process on the left rear, right front and left front calipers, in that order. Top off the reservoir between each wheel -- don't let it run dry, or you'll have to start all over. Test the brakes in a safe environment before entering traffic.



Tips & Warnings

DOT 4 brake fluid is an acceptable substitution if DOT 3 fluid is not available.
Do not shake up or agitate the brake fluid bottle before using the fluid. The fluid can hold air bubbles in suspension and make it difficult to bleed the brakes properly.

How to Fix An Exhaust Drone

How to Fix An Exhaust Drone

Exhaust drone is primarily the result of sound waves traveling through the air and vibration that is transferred through a vehicle's frame, body and components. Exhaust drone vibration may also be a result of sound frequency alignment between the engine and exhaust. When the frequencies are aligned, the result is a pressure wave between the engine and exhaust. Sound waves, transferred sound and sound frequency must be controlled to quiet the exhaust. Exhaust system modifications and the application of sound control material will reduce exhaust drone in your vehicle.

Things You'll Need

Resonated tip

Muffler

Steel weights

Lead weights

Ring clamps

Hood liner

CLD tiles

Sound-blocking mats

Seam tape

Exhaust System Modifications

Install a resonated exhaust tip on the tailpipe. Resonated tips are lined with material that damps sound waves. When exhaust gas passes through the resonated tip, the lining damps the sound produced by the exhaust system by as much as 10 decibels.

Replace the muffler. Muffler design and size directly affects the sound profile of the exhaust system. Select a muffler with multiple chambers designed to damp the sound waves. Multiple chamber designs cause sound wave collisions, which reduce the total volume of the exhaust system. Altering the muffler design will also alter the sound frequency of the exhaust system, potentially eliminating resonating pulses in the cabin of the vehicle.

Extend the exhaust pipe by 3 to 4 feet. Exhaust drone not related to the volume of the sound output is a result of the sound frequency of the exhaust system. Lengthen the pipes to change the frequency of the sound. When the sound frequencies of the exhaust and engine match, a drone may occur. Altering the frequency of the exhaust will reduce or eliminate exhaust drone.

Clamp weights to the exhaust pipes. Exhaust drone can be damped by increasing the density of the material through which the vibration must travel. Clamp solid steel or lead to the exhaust pipe both before and after the muffler. Use ring clamps to secure the weight to the exhaust pipes.

Sound Blocking

Install a sound-damping hood liner in the engine compartment. Exhaust sounds produced at the engine and exhaust manifold resonate in the cabin of the vehicle. Hood liners damp the sound output.

Install vibration-reducing mats on the bare metal of the vehicle's interior. Constrained layer damping tiles, known as CLD tiles, will reduce the vibration of the metal. The drone of an exhaust system is amplified by vibrating sheet metal. Damped metal will not transfer as much of the vibration to the cabin. Apply CLD tiles to approximately 25 percent of the metal surfaces to ensure sufficient vibration control.

Install sound-blocking mats in the interior of the cabin. Remove the interior seating, upholstery and trim. Cover virtually all the surfaces in the interior with sound-blocking mats. Connect the mats with seam tape to reduce sound leakage. Reinstall the trim, upholstery and seating.

How to Quiet an Exhaust System

How to Quiet an Exhaust System

Loud exhaust systems can result in tickets in many states. They can also be an annoyance to yourself and others. Your exhaust system could be loud either because of alterations intended to increase the vehicle's performance, or because of failing equipment. Regardless of the reason, there are permanent as well as temporary ways to quiet an excessively loud exhaust system.

Things You'll Need
Muffler
Drill
Steel Wool
Wire


Permanent Fix
Make sure the catalytic converters and the mufflers are working properly. If they become damaged or have been bored out to increase performance, they can be very loud. In most cases, the check engine light will be on if the muffler or catalytic converter are damaged or altered.

Change the mufflers. On most vehicles there are four bolts which hold the muffler onto the tail pipe. If you have dual exhaust, there will be two mufflers. Glass pack mufflers tend to be very loud, but also tend to allow the best airflow. Reactive mufflers are included on most vehicles and are much quieter. Changing your muffler to a quieter one might affect your performance, but can make your vehicle quieter.

Replace your tail pipes. Larger diameter tailpipes tend to be louder than smaller diameter tailpipes. Often larger tailpipes are added to increase performance. If you don't want to reduce your tailpipe size, consider a crossover tailpipe. A crossover lets air travel between two exhaust pipes, which causes the pressure to equalize between the two pipes. The result is higher performance and less volume. If no alterations have been made to your tailpipes, this step will not be appropriate.

Temporary Fix
Drill two very small holes in your tailpipe, about 10 inches from the end.

Shove a wad of steel wool into the tailpipe. The wad of steel wool should go in as far as the holes that were drilled. The steel wool will work as a damper to absorb some of the sound without a dramatic effect on the vehicles performance.

Thread the wire into one hole, through the steel wool and out the other hole. Twist it around the tail pipe to secure it.