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Sunday 30 June 2013

Pilot light issue

Pilot light issue


stove light

Vulcan convection oven has pilot lit and fan blows

The list of problems is as long as the one Obama inherited when he took over. Good news though, the most expensive part works, the blower motor! The pilot is established which rules out a gas issue. The two most common problems are, either the temp controller or the infinite switch is bad. Your unit has one or the other but, not both. Controller has several wires leading to it & has a green or tan circuit board on it, infinite switch is a small black or white 2 inch square box with 4 or 5 wires leading to it. Each one of these are mounted thru the front control panel & both have knobs. Temp board around $180, infinite switch around $45. As far as the schematic is concerned, Vulcan was bought by Hobart & they DO NOT give out schematics or service manuals.



How to light Oven Pilot for Magic Chef stove 31000 PAW

There is a cover plate that has two screws holding it down. Inspect the pilot area and you will see a hot surface igniter sitting right next to it.. That is what lights pilot and then the pilot lights main burner. You need a new igniter. Also do not touch any part of the hot surface igniter as human oil will shorten the life of part.


Oven will not light

Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting. 

If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.  
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system


 The pilot light for the oven went out

Replace the bulb, you can buy replacements here


Vulcan oven will not stay lit

I would take out the pilot and clean it up and see what happens,also look behind the unit and see if there's a gas regulator on the gas line,if so you will see a nut on it take it off with a pair of pliers and clean as well.that valve is actually the safety valve,when the pilot lights the flame impinges on the thermocouple and that sends a millivolt back to that valve in order to open.if none of these resolve your problem i would replace the thermocouple first as this is a cheap part and easy to put on.if you need a part # i can give it to you.let me know.

Roper gas oven won't work

I have a really old Roper gas oven. It has a spark ignitor. The range works fine, but when I try to use the oven it just keeps clicking. It is sparking down below, and so I tried manually lighting the pilot. The pilot stays lit, but it won't light the rest of the panel to heat up the oven/broiler. What do I need to do?

Replace the thermal coupling on the pilot make sure it is in the flame of the pilot it looks like a copper wire or tube if its bad it wont open the gas valve after the pilot heats it up


Delay in oven burner to light after pilot is lit

Oven is delayed in lighing after pilot is lit by sometimes 5 to 15 minutes. Also it seems the setting has to be over 350* for it to light. Up to this point oven has worked good, purchased in 1992.
Model number 2121XRA- serial #04C244745147

The upper stove top burners work fine it is just the oven that seems to delay longer all the time.

How Pilot Lights Work

If you have an older model furnace or water heater that uses natural gas, or if you have ­a set of gas logs in your fire place, you have probably seen the small blue flame known as the pilot light. You may even have been able to experience the thrill of relighting the pilot light when it goes out. Let's take a look at how the pilot light works.
The basic idea behind a pilot light is simple. Its purpose is to provide the flame needed to light the gas coming out of the main burner. When the furnace "turns on", a valve releases gas into the burner and the pilot light ignites that gas.
The way that a pilot light is created is also simple. It is made by allowing a small amount of gas to come from the gas pipe through a small tube. You light the gas escaping from the tube, and it burns all the time.
You can see, however, that the pilot light creates a potential safety problem. If the pilot light flame were to ever blow out, the gas would keep coming out of the pilot light tube. If this gas were to collect inside your house and then ignite, it would create an explosion. To solve this problem, the pilot light tube has a valve that cuts the gas to the pilot light in the event that it ever blows out.
This valve is actually a fascinating little piece of equipment. It has to be able to sense whether that pilot light is lit or not, and for safety reasons it needs to be able to do that without requiring any outside electricity. How can you create a pilot light sensor that works reliably over the course of many years without any electricity?
The answer to that question is ingenious. The way to do it is to use the heat of the pilot light flame to generate the electricity by using a thermocouple.
Thermocouples generate electricity directly from heat. They take advantage of an electrical effect that occurs at junctions between different metals. For example, take two iron wires and one copper wire. Twist one end of the copper wire and one end of one of the iron wires together. Do the same with the other end of the copper wire and the other iron wire. If you heat one of the twisted junctions with a flame and attach the two free iron wires to a volt meter, you will be able to measure a voltage.
In a pilot light, one of the junctions of a thermocouple is sitting in the pilot light's flame. The electricity that is created runs to a small electromagnetic valve and holds it open. If the pilot light blows out, the thermocouple quickly cools off. It stops generating electricity and the valve closes.
To relight the pilot light, you have to push a button that opens the value manually. Then you light the pilot light and wait for the thermocouple to heat up (about 30 seconds). Once it is hot, the thermocouple is generating the electricity needed to hold the value open. Then you can let go of the button.
The problem with pilot lights is that they waste a lot of gas. Therefore, most modern appliances do not have a pilot light. Instead, they use a piezoelectric spark to light the burner.


Pilot Light Problems

If your pilot light goes out numerous times throughout the year, it could mean that you have a problem that needs the attention of a professional HVAC contractor.
The burner in your gas furnace is ignited either by electronic ignition as found in most modern furnaces or with a standing pilot flame which common in older style furnaces less than 80% AFUE. The gas furnace standing pilot (flame is lit all the time) is sometimes referred to as a pilot light, but no matter what you call it, its purpose is to serve as a small ignition flame for the gas burner. And when this little flame fails to operate properly or go out, it's one of the most common reasons a gas furnace will fail to operate.

Some of the reasons your light may keep going out include:
A bad or loose thermocouple
A bad gas valve
A poor pilot flame - low gas pressure or blocked orifice
High winds or downdraft
A badly cracked heat exchanger
Improper venting
Flue or chimney problems
The most common reason for a pilot light to go out often is a nearby draft; you should rule this out as the cause by simply looking around to see if there is a new draft in the area of your system.
If your pilot light is on but has a weak, yellow flame, it means that it is not working well enough. A pilot light should be blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow — a sign that there is enough heat to warm your home. With a yellow flame, the furnace will not get hot enough to heat the thermocouple to the point where it triggersthe gas valve to open. If you have a propane flame, it should have a bluish-green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip.

The first step in troubleshooting your weak pilot flame is to rule out whether there is a draft that is weakening the flame. If this is not the problem, then you may need to adjust the flame. Follow safety precautions and your system's manufacturer's instructions for adjusting the flame. Usually this is pretty simple and you just need to turn a small screw. If this does not help, the problem could be a dirty pilot tube. For this, you should turn to an HVAC contractor — or if you feel skilled enough (and know all of the safety precautionstoo), then you can take a needle or small nail and gently clean the tube.


Troubleshooting a Gas Furnace - Furnace Repair

The Conventional Gas Furnace
The gas furnace is an appliance looking like a large box that does the following:

takes in cold air,
cleans it with an air filter,
heats it up with a gas burner using a steel heat exchanger,
distributes the warm air with a blower motor through your home's ductwork
The heated air then cools down in your home's various rooms and returns to the furnace through return air grills and ductwork.
The cold returning air enters back through the air filter into the furnace to complete another heating loop.

Sometimes there is a humidifier mounted on the furnace or the return air ductwork.

Furnaces come in different efficiencies measured in AFUE.

Once in a while things don't work quite right and you need to troubleshoot a gas furnace repair or relight a standing pilot if it has one. Conventional furnaces may have electronic ignitions which need special troubleshooting.


High efficiency condensing furnaces (90% AFUE and above) are a bit more complex than conventional furnaces. The main difference between a conventional and condensing furnace is the heat exchanger technology used to extract heat from the combustion process and the method used to exhaust the combustion gases. In these regards the furnaces are very different. The condensing furnace does not have a significantly more efficient combustion process than a conventional furnace. Both use gas burners with electronic ignition. The difference lies in that the condensing furnace has a more efficient heat extraction process after combustion.



Difference Between a Thermocouple and a Flame Sensor
A thermocouple is used on a standing pilot furnace (with a pilot light). An electronic ignition furnace (intermittent pilot or hot surface ignition) uses a flame sensor. The flame sensor and thermocouple both perform similar functions in that they both control the flow of gas from the gas valve.

The flame sensing rod can be straight or “L” shaped. In both cases the thermocouple or flame sensing rod are generally part of a pilot burner assembly and both connect to the gas valve or to the electronic control box.


Purchase a replacement thermocouple or flame sensing rod applicable to your particular furnace. Honeywell, White Rodgers and others make universal replacement thermocouples, (usually 30 millivolt (mV) ratings) for standing pilot furnaces. The length you see on the package, such as 24” or 30” is the lead length of the thermocouple.
The electronic flame sensor is a less universal part and you will need to get one specific to your model of furnace.


Replacing a Furnace Thermocouple or Electronic Flame Sensor

Thermocouple Replacement
Replacing a thermocouple is fairly easy if you follow these steps:
Shut off gas and power to the furnace.
Remove the furnace's access cover.
If the furnace has been running, wait 30 minutes or so until the thermocouple cools.
The end of the thermocouple is screwed into the gas control valve. Unscrew the nut that holds the thermocouple end fitting into the control valve.
The thermocouple is fastened to the standing pilot burner assembly bracket with a nut at the bottom of the bracket or a nut below and above the bracket. Unscrew the nut(s) and remove the thermocouple.
Connect the new thermocouple to the pilot burner assembly bracket.
Clean the threaded gas control valve opening and fasten the thermocouple end fitting to the gas control valve about 1/4 of a turn beyond where it feels tight by hand.
Turn on the gas and power to the furnace.
Turn on the pilot light and make sure about 1/2” of the thermocouple is in the pilot flame.

Replace furnace access cover.

Electronic Ignition Furnace

The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that allows more reliable performance than standing pilot furnaces, provides energy savings and contributes to better furnace efficiency (AFUE). With a standing pilot, found most commonly on older low efficiency furnaces (55% to 65% AFUE is not uncommon), a small gas flame is always burning and is known in the lexicon of American home repair as a "pilot light". The problem with this type of "analog" ignition is that it wastes energy by constantly burning gas and can sometimes be unreliable.
These issues have led to the development of electronic ignition systems for mid to high efficiency furnaces that exceed the U.S. government’s established minimum AFUE rating of 78%.

The electronic ignition occurs typically in one of two ways:
Intermittent Pilot, or
Hot Surface Ignition
The intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high voltage electrical spark to ignite the gas pilot and then subsequently the main burners, when the thermostat calls for heat.
The hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element not unlike a light bulb filament (and shown in the photo above), to ignite the gas burner.


It is important to understand some of the other components of a modern furnace that you will encounter depending on the type of high efficiency furnace you have. Why? Because they can also come into play in repairing an electronic ignition furnace when it won't run properly. Let's take a quick review of the types of furnace designs and components found in high efficiency furnaces using electronic ignition.


Pilot Light Problem

Turning off the electricity should not extinguish the pilot light. It sounds like you have a problem with the thermocouple - although I am no expert. The quote below explains a thermocouple.

Many gas-fed heating appliances like ovens and water heaters make use of a pilot light to ignite the main gas burner as required. If the pilot light becomes extinguished for any reason, there is the potential for uncombusted gas to be released into the surrounding area, thereby creating both risk of fire and a health hazard. To prevent such a danger, some appliances use a thermocouple to sense when the pilot light is burning. Specifically, the tip of a themocouple is placed in the pilot flame. This thermocouple electrically operates the gas supply valve responsible for feeding the pilot. So long as the pilot flame remains lit, the thermocouple remains hot and holds the pilot gas valve open. If the pilot light goes out, the temperature will fall along with a corresponding drop in electricity, removing power from the valve. Unpowered, the valve will then automatically shut off the gas, halting this unsafe condition.

Obviously a sealed CH system should not lose lots of water and it doesn't sound as if the small leak would account for the loss you are experiencing.


It is recommended that gas boilers are checked for safety annually, although this is not mandatory unless the property is rented.

had just the same problem,although mine was due to the electricity running out!! Our CH wouldnt work, and after taking the pump apart and talking to FIL for about an hour realised it was that the power cut had caused the boiler to "trip". I had to remove the bottom cover of the boiler and on the underside there was a tiny red button, i had to push it really hard, but this reset the boiler and now all is fine.


Troubleshooting Pilot Light Problems

A few simple steps can generally relight your pilot light, regardless of the appliance, but don't hesitate to call for professional help.

Whether it's a gas-powered stove or oven, or a gas-powered boiler, furnace or water heater, there's a pilot light involved. A pilot, being what it is (a tiny flame), will likely go out from time to time, even if there is nothing wrong with your system. After all, a brief interruption in gas flow or a stiff gust of air is about all it takes. That being said, a pilot shouldn't go out frequently, and if it does, you need to get a technician in to look for problems.

That being said, what should you do at first if the pilot goes out? Procedures vary depending on whether it's a stove top, oven or other appliance (like a boiler, furnace or water heater). Let's start with the easier ones: the stove and oven, then we'll move on to the more complex appliances. (If your appliance has instructions about relighting the pilot, follow them first and foremost; the advice below is general and may not apply to all units.)

STOVETOP PILOTS

* Turn the burner control knobs off.

* Remove the cooking grates and cooktop, if necessary.

* Find the pilot light ports and light each that is out with a match.

* Replace the grates and cooktop.

* Turn on the burners one at a time to make sure they are working now.

Pilot flames on stovetops should generally be 3/8 of an inch high. You can adjust the flame's height if you need to, though. Follow the pilot lot back from the pilot toward the oven control to find the adjustment screw. Turn the screw until your flame is the proper height.

OVEN PILOTS

* Turn the oven control knob off.

* Remove the broiler carriage.

* Light a match and hold it to the top forward section of the pilot.

* Put the broiler carriage back in place.

Generally speaking, there is no need (and no way) for you to adjust the pilot flame for an oven.

FURNACE/BOILER/WATER HEATER PILOTS

* Turn off the appliance, either at the thermostat or power switch.

* Locate the gas valve, which normally displays three positions ("on," "off" and "pilot"), and turn it to "pilot."

* Press the gas valve knob in to send gas to the burner.


* Hold a lighted match to the pilot burner. You may need a long match (such as those used for fireplaces) or may need to hold a shorter match with a pair of pliers to reach the burner.

* Light the pilot, but continue pressing in the gas valve knob for 30 to 60 seconds.

* Let go of the gas valve button.

* If the pilot doesn't stay lighted, try the process again once or twice more before exploring the possibility of other problems.

* If the pilot flame stays lighted, turn the gas valve knob to "on."

* Close the access panel.

* Turn the appliance back on at the thermostat or power switch.

If you have a spark ignition for the pilot, you won't need a lighted match. Instead, you need to push that ignition button, and you may need to do this several times if there is air in the line.

If your pilot light goes out more than once every season, there's a good chance you have a mechanical or other physical problem that needs to be fixed. The possibilities include (but are not limited to):

* A thermocouple that has gone bad or is loose

* A bad gas valve

* Low gas pressure or blockage that causes a poor flame

* A downdraft or high wind/air movement or some other sort

* Damaged heat exchanger

* Improper venting

* Problems with the flue or chimney

* You're out of fuel (it may sound obvious, but people often forget this possibility)


Water Heater Pilot Light

A water heater pilot light is used to ignite the gas that heats the water. You may go for a long time and not realize that your pilot light has been faithfully serving you.


When the pilot light stops working you do not have hot water. Then you notice. A malfunctioning pilot light may be a sign of another problem. It could be that it just needs to be lit again.

Water Heater Pilot Light - Information

What Can You Save?
A serviceman that comes out will likely tell you your problem is a defective thermocouple. The bill for replacing it will be between $125 and $150. Up selling you to a new water heater is also a possibility. Plan on $800 to $1,500 if that happens.

How Hard Could It Be?
Lighting a water heater pilot light is not that hard. It should take less than ten minutes.

These repairs will have a Difficulty Level of: Simple
These repairs require a Skill Level of: Job Jar Specialist



Check the Simple Things!
You're at the simplest problem you can have with a gas hot water heater. Sorry, there is nothing easier.

What Can Go Wrong?
A pilot light that won't stay lit may be indicative of a more serious problem. You will be without hot water if you cannot fix it. You can get a lot of complaining when this happens.

Water Heater Pilot Light – The Steps Involved

There are two types of pilot lights that you may need to deal with. The older style that requires a match to light it. Then there are the newer ones that have an ignitor. Some high efficiency hot water heaters use and electronic ignition and do not have a pilot light. They don't have a pilot light at all.

Gas water heaters are equipped with a thermocouple. The thermocouple senses when the pilot light is lit. When the thermocouple goes bad it will not send the right signals to the gas valve. When that happens the gas valve will turn off and the burner will night light. Additionally the water heater pilot light will go out.


Does the pilot light refuse to stay lit? There is a good chance you have a bad thermocouple.



Troubleshooting Problems with the Pilot Light of Your Natural Gas Furnace

Every natural gas furnace contains a pilot light which is there to ignite the gas burner. This component of the furnace must be on for the unit itself to be running. Troubleshooting problems with your pilot light is not necessarily difficult. Simply follow the guide below for helpful tips.


Understand Your Pilot Light

Before you can troubleshoot anything, you have to know what is going on in the first place. There is a component of the natural gas furnace called the thermocouple, and it acts as a sensor for the pilot light to determine if the heat coming from the burner is enough to handle the burning fuel from the burner. If the pilot is not producing enough heat, then it shuts off the gas valve. This is all necessary to prevent gas from leaking into your home and causing fires beyond where they need to be. In short, if the pilot light goes off, the furnace ceases production.


Prepare to Relight the Pilot Light

Assuming that the pilot light is out, you have to relight it. There are slight variations on how to do this from one furnace or another. To be on the safe side, check your instruction manual or the instructions listed on the furnace door for specifics about your unit. For the purposes of this guide, we will assume that you have a standing pilot light (one that remains lit at all times)


Relight the Pilot Light

Once you have reviewed the instructions for your unit, you will need to turn your thermostat to "Heat" and crank it up to 80 degrees to get it going. Find the pilot valve on your furnace and find the box the knob with the on/off options. Turn that knob to "Off". Find the pilot light near the gas burner tubes. Use a long match or lighter to ignite the flame. Do so by setting the knob or reset button from "Off" to "Pilot" Hold the lit match or lighter up to the pilot and depress the knob or button for 30 seconds. On th pilot remains lit, turn the knob or button to "On".


If the Relight Does Not Work

First try to wait a few minutes and then repeat the procedure above. Use a time of 60 seconds instead to ensure that the thermocouple has enough time to get hot. If that doesn't solve the problem, proceed onto other troubleshooting techniques.


If the Pilot Does Not Stay Lit

If you find that the pilot light does not remain lit after re-ignition, you likely have a problem with your thermocouple. Consult with your instruction manual once again to find out how to replace that unit. Then relight and test accordingly.


If the Flame is Irregular

If you have a faint or irregular flame coming out of your natural gas furnace, you may need to be adjusted. The flame should be blue, not yellow. If it is not the right color, then it means it's not the right temperature and could be sending bad signals to the thermocouple. Find the screw for your pilot made to adjust the flame. Follow your instruction manual to determine how to set it.


Other Problems

If you notice your flame is flickering, you likely have a draft issue. If there is a spitting motion coming out, there may be dirt in the tubes. You can clean this out with a small nail.

Saturday 18 May 2013

Pontiac Firebird Trans Am: 2001 Pontiac trans am. alternator


2001 Pontiac trans am. alternator replaced with aftermarket unit. The original alternator tested bad at the local auto shack. The new alternator is not charging. Does this mean I need to use a factory unit?

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Firebird Trans Am
Year: 2001
Engine: 5.7

Already Tried:
New aftermarket alternator.


Have you tested for power at the alternator connections?

Customer replied2 days and 21 hours ago.

no. The car is not at home right now. What should I check for? Is there anything that has to be done with/to the computer when changing the alternator? If I have power at the alternator does that mean the new one is bad?
Accepted Answer


Expert:  Dave Nova replied2 days and 21 hours ago.

Nothing needs to be done to the computer when replacing the alternator. Make sure there is voltage on the large stud terminal at the back of the alternator. Then turn the key on and test for voltage on the small red wire at the plug in connector. If you have voltage at both connections, the alternator is bad and should be replaced again.

Pontiac Grand Prix GT: 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8L no cooling


1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8L no cooling fans unless A/C is on.

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Prix GT
Year: 1997
Engine: 3.8l

Already Tried:
Unplugged coolant temp sensor next to thermostat, and the fans did not come on even then. Will only come on with A/C.



Does the check engine light come on with engine running?
How hot does the engine get if idling without the a/c on?


Customer replied2 days and 17 hours ago.
The engine gets warm, but I wouldn't say hot. It doesn't have a gasket problem. No CEL.

Expert:  Dave Nova replied2 days and 17 hours ago.

Fans should of course come on when the coolant sensor is unplugged. Fans also come on when the temperature reaches 225-228 degrees. Does the engine reach that temperature range or more?


Customer replied2 days and 17 hours ago.
Well, see, that's what I thought. That's why I unplugged it, but they didn't come on. And they DO run with the A/C on, which is weird, so I'm not inclined to think it's the motors obviously. The temp gauge does, but I don't know if it is accurate or not. I can shoot it.

Expert:  Dave Nova replied2 days and 17 hours ago.

Let's see what the actual temperature reading gets up to and go from there.


Customer replied2 days and 16 hours ago.
Ugh, hold on. My mechanic did not turn the vehicle ON, just to the on position. When ON, and the sensor is UNPLUGGED, they run. So it's the sensor, right?
Accepted Answer


Expert:  Dave Nova replied2 days and 16 hours ago.

That would be correct. If the fans come on with the sensor unplugged and the engine running then the computer, relays, fan motors, and wiring are all okay and this would indicate a problem with the sensor. Fans still will not come on until 225-228 even with a good sensor installed.

Pontiac Grand Prix GTP: 2004 pontiac temperature gauge just


2004 pontiac temperature gauge just stopped working.
Drove car this morning it was working.
Shut off the car, went it store, started the car and noticed no temp gauge and the cooling fans were blowing.
I do have a lower intake manifold leak....not too severe, that I'm in the process of fixing.
What would cause gauge to stop working, causing the cooling fans to kick on?

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Prix GTP
Year: 2004
Engine: 3.8 supercharged

Already Tried:
Currently using 180 degree T-stat. That was installed 3 months ago. Checked HVAC fuse, that is ok.
Submitted: 2 days and 16 hours ago.
Category: Pontiac
Value: $18
Status: CLOSED

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 16 hours ago.
Hello I will help you with your question,
Is your coolant full?
If the coolant drops below the tip of the coolant sensor then it will read cold and the engine computer which "knows" it should read normal will flag this as a problem, turn on the fans as it cannot be sure of the temperature and turn on the check engine light.
Let me know if this is the case
Thank you
Customer replied2 days and 16 hours ago.
Yes, coolant recovery tank is full and radiator is full... close to the neck.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 16 hours ago.
OK, check the coolant sensor connection and the sensor resistance if you have an ohmeter. The gauges do go bad on these years but usually the computer does not turn on the check engine light or turn on the fans if that happens.
Let me know how I can help you with this
Thanks
Customer replied2 days and 16 hours ago.

I'll check the connection.

I don't have an ohmeter.

The check engine light is not on....only the fans.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
Sorry I don't know where I got that... You can disconnect the sensor and bridge the connector with a paperclip (don't let it touch the engine metal!) and see if the gauge goes full hot. If it does the problem is in the sensor.
Let me know how I can help
THank you
Customer replied2 days and 15 hours ago.

ok, I'll try that.



If I take it only short distances, it is still driveable?

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
As long as the coolant is full, the fans are running and the engine does not seem like it is overheating it is safe to drive. YOu can run the heater and if it starts putting out super hot air or goes dead cold you need to stop the engine
Please let me know how I can help
Thank you
Customer replied2 days and 15 hours ago.

with the clip bridged, should I be able to get a reading with the car off?

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
YOu will need to turn the key on to see the gauge move and wait for a minute to see if there is any action.
Please let me know what questions you have
Thanks
Customer replied2 days and 15 hours ago.

no movement with the gauge.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
Sounds like the gauge died but you do need to have the codes pulled from the computer. An autoparts store will do this at no cost but I think you know this. If the code is a cooling system code you still need to look further, if you have a scanner that will show data look to see what engine temp is displayed.
Let me know what you find with this so I can help
Thank you
Customer replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
Ok, I'll check it out.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 15 hours ago.
Please let me know what you find, any code you may get and what I can do to help
Thanks
Customer replied2 days and 12 hours ago.

Ok...

When I reconnected the coolant temp sensor, the check engine light came on and stayed on until I got it scanned.

The code that came up was "coolant temp sensor" and the reading for the coolant was, "cool."

Is it safe to say that it's the coolant temp sensor causing this problem?

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 12 hours ago.
If you clear the code and run it through a heating cycle, let it cool down and run it through one more cycle on the third cold start the code will reset if it is a valid code. The code may have set due to the sensor being unplugged with the key on.
Did you get the code number?
Were you able to see the data for the coolant temperature when the code was read?
Customer replied2 days and 12 hours ago.

I didn't get the code number, but I did see it say, coolant temp sensor.



I just asked what the scanner said about the coolant temp. and he said that it was reading as "cool."



I'm going back tomorrow to pick up a temp sensor.

I'll get you the code number tomorrow.



Thanks for your help.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 12 hours ago.
If the engine temp shows cool when it is hot you problem is not in the gauge. While you are there turn the key off, disconnect the sensor, put the paperclip in and start the engine. If it now shows a code and shows hot on the engine temp on the scanner then you need a sensor. If it still shows cold then you have a problem in the wiring between the sensor connector and the computer.
Please let me know what you find when you get a chance to check
Thanks
Customer replied2 days and 12 hours ago.

Ok, I'll check for all of that tomorrow.

Expert:  George H replied2 days and 12 hours ago.
I will watch for your post tomorrow. No need to reply til then.
Thanks
Customer replied1 days and 17 hours ago.

Hi,
sorry for the delay, my pc had a problem.

As for the grand prix, I started the car this morning and the gauge was working properly and the fans were off.
Drove around today, shut the car off, started the car up and the gauge was working properly and fans remained off.

Did not go over to have the car scanned.

Expert:  George H replied1 days and 17 hours ago.
Sounds like the connection may have been restored with your testing. At least you know what to do here when it quits again.
Please let me know if you have questions about this
Thank you
Customer replied1 days and 17 hours ago.
Alright, thanks for your help.

Pontiac G6 GT: I have a Pontiac g6 gt. Panoramic moonroof wont


Customer Question

I have a 2006 Pontiac G6 GT. My Panoramic moonroof has not been able to open for the last year. No dealers around me have any clue on what to look for with my issue. they just give me the oh just buy a new one. I know it's an easy fix I just need to speak with someone who can guide me through an who has seen this same issue. My problem is this: The roof won't open up. The only movement I see happening is only on The passenger side the 1st level panel pops up an inch. When i turn the moonroof dial to Level one (vent mode) it does nothing when i go to level 2 the glass pops up an inch on the passenger side and not on the drivers side. and when i turn the dial to the rest of the levels it does nothing. and to get the passenger side to go back down it takes a few rotations of the dial to get it closed again. the noises it makes is the normal mechanic noises that it usually makes it just womt open. its like its stuck. im willin to dig into it myself i just need guidence. what do I try?

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: G6 GT
Year: 2006
Engine: V6 3.5

Already Tried:
Pushing up on the glass and random tries
Submitted: 2 days and 9 hours ago.
Category: Pontiac
Value: $38
Status: AWAITING CUSTOMER ACTION

Expert:  FIXITMAN replied2 days and 9 hours ago.

FIXITMAN :
Hello, and thank you for allowing me the opportunity to help you. If I am not online when you are, please allow me time to return. Does the shade still work?
Customer : Yes it still works perfectly fine
Customer : The mechanics don't make any weird noises. It's just budge at all on the left side and only pops into vent mode on the right side
Customer : Won't budge on the left side
Customer : I updated my question with more detail::
Customer : I have a 2006 Pontiac G6 GT. My Panoramic moonroof has not been able to open for the last year. No dealers around me have any clue on what to look for with my issue. they just give me the oh just buy a new one. I know it's an easy fix I just need to speak with someone who can guide me through an who has seen this same issue. My problem is this: The roof won't open up. The only movement I see happening is only on The passenger side the 1st level panel pops up an inch. When i turn the moonroof dial to Level one (vent mode) it does nothing when i go to level 2 the glass pops up an inch on the passenger side and not on the drivers side. and when i turn the dial to the rest of the levels it does nothing. and to get the passenger side to go back down it takes a few rotations of the dial to get it closed again. the noises it makes is the normal mechanic noises that it usually makes it just womt open. its like its stuck. im willin to dig into it myself i just need guidence. what do I try?
FIXITMAN :
Thank you for the response. Typically this is either a problem with the switch or the control module for the roof. I would recommend removing the switch and testing it with an ohm meter. If you pop off the trim panel around the switch you will be able to remove the switch. I can walk you through testing the resistance of the switch then. If the switch tests fine then I would replace the module.
FIXITMAN :
Are there any other electrical concerns in the vehicle?
Customer : no everything works normal.
Customer : is there a way to reset the moonroof settings.
Customer : let me take off the switch and try that and I will respond after that.
Customer : my personal email is XXXXX@XXXXXX.XXX
Customer : i appreciate your advice because this moonroof is the reason I bought the car and ik things can be fixed for cheap and I feel this is a small problem and not a full replacement problem. But let me get back to you after I test the switch
FIXITMAN :
To reset it you can pull the LAMELLA ROOF fuse in the rear fuse panel. Let me know if you pull the switch out.
Customer : Alright so I changed the rear fuses. And took off the switch and am gonna check resistance but what specifically do I look for on ohm meter
Customer : I've checked the contacts I just need details as to what is good or bad.
Customer : The three pin has no contact to anything
Customer : From testing the contact here is what I got
Customer : o- 4,5 closed
Customer : 1- 1,4&1,5&4,5 closed
Customer : 2- 1,4 closed
Customer : 3- 1,2 &1,4 & 2,4 closed
Customer : 4- 1,2 & 1,4 & 1,5 & 2,4& 2,5& 4,5 closed
Customer : Far left is the levels from the switch 0-4 and there was 5 pins tested. 1-5. Please let me know where were at. My email is dbrownpro at gmail
FIXITMAN : Contact 4 is the common contact point so leave one of your test leads there. I need to know what the resistance reading is on #5 when switch to position 1, 1 on position 2 and 2 on position 3 if that makes sense.
Customer : I've checked the resistance on the points you just have and they all end up 0
Customer : Position1 = 4,5=0
Customer : position2. = 4,1= 0
Customer : position 3 = 4,2 = 0
Customer : i have the switch completely out of the car on my kitchen table to make sure I'm testing it correctly
Customer : what should my next steps be are these signs bad?
FIXITMAN : These readings look fine. I would now check the ground connection shown below. Make sure that it is clean and tight. If it is fine then it is either a faulty sunroof control module or the programming in the module has failed. If you know of a shop with a good computer scanner they should be able to reset the programming for you. let me know what you find with the ground.

Pontiac Grand Am GT: have a 2003 pontiac


my name is XXXXX XXXXX have a 2003 pontiac grand am gt, V-6 ENGINE, with 55k miles on it,,,,,,my question is about the cooling system,,,,, everything seems to be ok but i have a few questions

1) i have always noticed, especially in summer, the temp guage would go up to about 210 to 215 then come back to normal which is about 200 degrees.

2) this past winter, the thermostat was stuck closed, the guage would only get to about 180 or so,,,,, the thermostat was not opening and i wasnt getting the proper heat in the car,,,,, i had the thermostat replaced,,, everything was fine,, the heat inside was good again,,, the temp guage would get to about 200 then hold steady there,,,, remember - this was during the cold weather months.

now, with the warmer weather, here is what i am getting on the temp guage.

1) at about 200 degrees, the thermostat seems to be opening fine and on the colder mornings, i am getting good heat inside the car with no problem ( AND THE AC IS BLOWING COLD TOO WHEN I TURN IT ON ).

2) when i am in traffic, with the heat and ac off, the temp guage seems to go up to about 210 to 215 before it comes back down to about 200.

i have been doing some reading online and i want to make sure that the cooling fans are operating properly so here is what i did this morning:

1) in my driveway, i started the car, let it idle in park, with no heat or ac on.

2) at about 195 to 200 on the temp guage, the thermostat seemed to open properly because the top radiator hose became very hot to the touch.

3) i proceeded to let the car idle, the temp guage slowly went up.

4) after about 15 minutes after i started the car, and with the temp guage reading about 212 to 215 degrees or so, both cooling fans came on. ( i assume that the speed of the fans was low at this time )

5) the temp guage started to slowly come back down to about 200 to 201 or 202 degrees,,, this only took a few minutes.

6) about 5 minutes later, with the temp guage still reading about 200 degrees, both fans were still on.

7) so i turned the car off, then turned back on, the temp guage went to 200 degrees and the fans were off, so i figured all was ok.

HERE ARE MY QUESTIONS

1) BASED UPON WHAT I OUTLINED ABOVE, DOES IT SOUND LIKE MY COOLING SYSTEM IS WORKING OKAY?

2) I HAVE READ THAT THE FANS SHOULD COME ON ABOUT AT 215 DEGREES OR SO,,,, IS THIS TRUE? THAT IS HOW THEY SEEM TO BE WORKING ON MY CAR.

3) LASTLY, SHOULD THE FANS TURN OFF AT SOME POINT OTHER THAN WHEN I TURN THE CAR OFF?,,,,,,, IF SO, AT WHAT TEMP SHOULD THEY TURN OFF?,,, MAYBE I DIDNT LET THE CAR RUN LONG ENOUGH FOR THE FANS TO TURN OFF THEMSELVES.

by the way, I AM NOT LEAKING ANY COOLANT FLUID AT ALL.

i do think that all is ok based upon all that i have read about these 2003 grand am gt cars,,, MOST OF WHAT I HAVE READ SAYS THAT THESE CARS TEND TO RUN " ON THE HOT " SIDE,,,, THAT MY READINGS ON MY TEMP GUAGE ARE NORMAL,,,, i am not looking for any kind of electrical schematics or anything like that since i would not troubleshoot this car on my own,,,,, everything is way too compact under for the hood for me to do anything on my own.

YOUR THOUGHTS AND ANSWERS ARE APPRECIATED,,,, THANKS.

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Am GT
Year: 2003
Engine: V-6


SOLUTION:


Based on the information you have given, your cooling fans are operating as designed. Please note that your gauge readings may not exactly match the reading the computer gets from the coolant temperature sensor, but should be close. The system is designed to turn the fans on at 223 degrees and off again when the coolant reaches around 200-210 degrees. High speed operation is commanded if the coolant temperature reaches 230 degrees.

The reason the computer runs the engine coolant temperatures high is that this helps to reduce exhaust emissions when idling.

If there is anything else I can help with, please let me know.


Customer replied1 days and 20 hours ago.


HI DAVE,

OK, SO MY SYSTEM SOUNDS LIKE IT IS RUNNING OK,,,, BUT LET ME GET BACK TO WHEN THE FANS SHOULD TURN OFF THEMSELVES WHEN THE COOLANT GETS BACK DOWN TO THE 200 TO 210 DEGREE RANGE ---- THE TEMP GUAGE SEEMED TO DROP DOWN TO ABOUT 200 DEGREES ( MAYBE IT WAS ABOUT 202 OR SO ) AND THE FANS KEPT RUNNING,,, ABOUT 5 MINUTES LATER I TURNED THE ENGINE OFF, THEN TURNED THE ENGINE BACK ON, AND THE FANS WERE OFF SO I TURNED THE CAR OFF,,,,,, SHOULD I BE CONCERNED AT THIS POINT THAT THE FANS DID NOT TURN OFF WHEN THE TEMP GAUGE GOT BACK DOWN TO ABOUT 201 DEGREES OR SO? SHOULD I HAVE LEFT THE CAR ON LONGER TO SEE IF THE FANS WOULD TURN OFF BY THEMSELVES?


?


Expert:  Dave Nova replied1 days and 20 hours ago.

I would not be concerned about this. If you left the engine running a bit longer, the computer would register the temperature and would have turned the fans off. Sounds like everything is working as it should and you should have nothing to worry about.

Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.


THANKS DAVE,,,, I APPRECIATE YOUR HELP,,, BYE
Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.


HI DAVE,

ONE MORE QUESTION ABOUT GAS MILEGE,

AT 55K MILES AND 10 YEARS, THE CAR HAS NEVER BEEN TUNED,,,, I DO GET A LITTLE ROUGH IDLING WEHN I AM STOPPED,,, BUT IF I DRIVE THE SPEED LIMIT HERE,,,, 55 MPH, I CAN GET ABOUT 22 TO 23 MILES PER GALLON WITHOUT THE AC ON,,,,, I DONT WANT TO SPEND $150 FOR ONLY 6 NEW SPARK PLUGS,,,,, DO YOU THINK MY MPG OF 22 TO 23 AT 55 MPH WITH NO AC ON IS GOOD GAS MILEAGE??? WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Expert:  Dave Nova replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

Ideally that car should get around 26 to maybe 27 mpg. This of course depends on fuel quality and other factors. Winter blend fuel gives you less mileage than summer fuel. Try cleaning the throttle body first, this should at least help to cure the rough idle. Remove the air intake hose between the engine and the air filter and use throttle body cleaner spray and a soft cloth to clean the interior of the throttle body (throttle blade and bore) Open the throttle blade by hand so the bore can be cleaned around the perimeter of and behind the throttle blade.

Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.
HI DAVE,

I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT ABOUT 65% OF MY DRIVING IS NORMAL CITY DRIVING, THAT IS, STOP AND GO,, WAITING AT TRAFFIC LIGHTS,, ETC.,, ETC,,, WITH THAT SAID, IS MY MILEAGE OF 22 TO 23 MPG STILL PRETTY GOOD???,,,,, I HAVENT BEEN ON AN EXTENDED HIGHWAY TRIP ( 50 MILES OR MORE ) WITH THE CAR SO MAYBE I WOULD GET 26 TO 27 MPG ON SUCH A TRIP,,,,WHAT I AM THINKING IS THAT $150 IS A LOT OF MONEY TO MAYBE TO JUST PICK UP AN ADDITIONAL 1 TO 2 MPG,,,,,, WHAT DO YOU THINK?,,,,,ALSO,,,IS THROTTLE BODY CLEANER BASICALLY GUMOUT IN A SPRAY CAN?,,,,AND THANKS FOR THE TIP ON CLEANING THE THROTTLE BODY,, GIVE ME YOUR THOUGHTS ON MY MPG WITH ME TELLING YOU THAT ABOUT 65% OF MY DRIVING IS CITY STYLE,,,, THANKS.
Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.
DAVE,

AS TO CLEANING THE THROTTLE BODY,,,, SO I SHOULD DISCONNECT THE HOSE RIGHT WHERE IT CONNECTS INTO THE THROTTLE?,,,,, THEN USE THE SPRAY TO CLEAN THE METAL PARTS INSIDE??, PLEASE ADVISE,,, THANKS.
Accepted Answer


Expert:  Dave Nova replied1 days and 19 hours ago.

With an average of city and highway driving, 22 to 23 mpg is right on target. This means you are actually getting 26-28 mpg highway driving. Replacing the plugs now would not likely net you any increase in fuel economy. Wait until you hit 100k to replace the plugs. Throttle body cleaner is basically Gumout in a spray can. You can use carburetor cleaner spray from Walmart (about $2 a can) and it will work fine. Yes, disconnect the hose right where it connects to the engine, this is the throttle body. Clean the parts inside.


Expert Type Pontiac Technician
Category: Pontiac
Pos. Feedback: 97.4 %
Accepts: 1790
Answered: 5/16/2013
Experience: ASE Master Certification. GM World Class Certification
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Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.
DAVE,

YOU HAVE BEEN GREAT !!!! TAKE CARE,,,, BYE,,,,,, REGARDS,, BRIAN
Customer replied1 days and 19 hours ago.
DAVE GAVE ME MORE INFO ABOUT MY CAR THAN ANY MECHANIC THAT I HAVE EVER TAKEN MY CAR TO,,,, HIS SERVICE WAS GREAT !!!

Expert:  Dave Nova replied1 days and 19 hours ago.


Thank you for the positive feedback.
If you ever need anything in the future, be sure to ask for me by name.

Dave Nova




Pontiac Grand Am SE: I have a 96 pontiac grand am. The dashboard


I have a 96 pontiac grand am. The dashboard "Theft Light" comes on, the car cranks, but then immediately dies. I talked to a mechanic who said it was probably a bad key or lock and if he had to replace the lock, it would be $300 to $500. Does that sound reasonable and does that sound like the problem?

Country: United States
Make: Pontiac
Model: Grand Am SE
Year: 1996
Engine: 4 liter

Already Tried: 
Holding the key in tightly, using 2 other keys.

SOLUTION:
The problem is most commonly due to a failure in the ignition lock cylinder which houses the passlock security sensor. Replacement cost for the ignition lock cylinder is around $300 at most shops, slightly more at others. Replacing the ignition lock cylinder should fix the problem.